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rooster

Member
  • Content count

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rooster

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/07/48

Personal Information

  • Location
    St. Andrews, Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    So much to do, So little time.
  • Occupation
    Grampa
  • City
    Winnipeg
  1. what level of detail?

    I use multiple grinders/ sanders / dremels and sometimes chisels but I try to do as much with the saw as I can because it saves me time and gives me more satisfaction when I can do small details with the saw.
  2. Husqvarna carving bar

    Personally I would not buy a laminated bar. I am just questioning whether anybody has used it and had any opinion. Thanks
  3. Husqvarna carving bar

    I should have included the part numbers 587394460 HUS 10" CARVING BAR 1/4, .050 501844060 HUS 10" CARVING CHN 1/4, .050 I have also seen somebody on ebay.uk selling an MS170 with teh Husqvarna bar mounted. Comparing image profiles it appears that the mount holes would not line up properly and the bar would have to be shortened?
  4. Husqvarna is listing a 10" and 12" carving bar that appears to be available in Europe and soon in the US. It is a laminated bar and I assume has a welded hard nose tip. Has anybody been using this bar had the tip fall off (as does the Stihl laminated bar)? I believe it is intended for use with the Li series Husqvarna saws but will fit the 240e and 543XP (and a few others that are higher power than the AP chain is rated for. ROOSTER
  5. Husqvarna Top Handle for Carving

    Several Husqvarna XP saws have rim drive and can be converted. The T536Li is very front heavy and my forearm tired quickly. Love the 536Li with a .043 dime cannon bar. The charger can keep up with detailing if you have two batteries.
  6. chainsaw carving set-up on a tight budget

    Not a hobby to pinch pennies with. Safety gear should be your first investment. Second hand is fine for occasional use but will it be reliable? My 24 inch saw is so old that it does not have a brake on it. It has been reliable and strong but I only use it for ripping and only on big logs less than 24 inches so that the tip is not in the wood. You will get many different opinions but remember that you only intend to be an occasional carver and not a pro!
  7. chainsaw carving set-up on a tight budget

    We have been offering a chainsaw carving camp for beginners for nine years now and we require that participants have two saws and an angle grinder with a "flap sanding disk", safety boots, safety pants, eye and ear protection. Bailey's in California ran a camp for a number of years and included a chainsaw in the price. Students were expected to change bars between blocking, shaping and detailing. I always recommend a small cc saw for beginners, mainly because of weight. I also recommend a maximum 0f 12" logs so that a 14" bar can work safely when ripping. If the Echo CS281 saw was available in Canada (or US) I would highly recommend them. Sugiuhara or Cannon bars (Canadian Eh!) ROOSTER chainsaw carving beginner basics simple chainsaw carving patterns projects 101 quick carve whiteshell clear lake winnipeg manitoba canada hackensack competition agassiz chainsaw sculptors
  8. Sprocket for Echo 420?

    It appears that you may be correct. Rim drive. I found this parts diagram for the CS420 https://www.partstree.com/parts/echo/saws-chainsaw/cs-420es-echo-chainsaw-sn-20001001-20999999/clutch-auto-oiler/
  9. Arbortech turboshaft

    Just saw the NEW Turbo "SHAFT" and it is not the same thing I have. Mine is the "Mini-Turbo" mounted on a shaft.
  10. Arbortech turboshaft

    Bought it at a wood working show where Arbortech USA had a booth and was demonstrating it. Bought it at a special show price.
  11. Arbortech turboshaft

    I bought this several years ago and never really found a use for it in my chainsaw carving. I bought a second Arbortech Mini-carver and mounted the wheel on that and now I have a "mini-power gouge"!
  12. Stihl is now making a .043 dime tip bar for its electric saws (1/4 pitch) The narrow kerf compensates for the slower chain speed and lower power of the electrics. I have done a conversion of a Makita electric (Dolmar) but it is tricky.
  13. Blocking down

    Since this is a chainsaw carving forum this is about the first cuts in a log that set the proportions and shape for a chainsaw carving. Assuming that I do not exceed a 24 inch diameter x 6ft tall log, I need a saw that will have the power and bar length to "rip" with the grain without bogging down or clogging. Assuming that the MS 362 (70cc) saw is a good choice, What chain is best to use for ripping with the grain across the whole log?
  14. Unwanted Blemishes

    One of my earliest carvings and first patterns http://chainsawcarve.ca/PATTERNS/ROOSTER/PATTERN%20Rooster.pdf
  15. Unwanted Blemishes

    I just noticed that my avatar is a "burned" finish. Did you use a pattern for the Maori Tiki?

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