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stuckinthemud

Member
  • Content Count

    115
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About stuckinthemud

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 21/03/1968

Personal Information

  • Location:
    South Wales
  • Interests
    woodcarver, bowyer
  • Occupation
    carving instructor, teacher and dyslexia support tutor
  • Post code
    cf83
  • City
    cardiff

Recent Profile Visitors

894 profile views
  1. Wondered how you know where I am then I realised the avatar has a location under it! Doh, I feel so stoopid!! Yup, shame you're so far away, I'm always looking out for yew, love working with it, hope someone 'turns' up. It does have some value, especially to bow-makers, but the logs need to be above 1m long for billets and about 2m long for bows - as long as they are straight they don't even need to be knot-free, up to a point. There are a few bowyers on Primitive Archer (warbow section) might be more local to you.
  2. On fallow deer antler, the pith runs to within 1 or 1.5mm of the surface of the palms, the pith is not only porous it goes so soft in water you can cut it out with a spoon. Biggest advantage of working the palmate section is it becomes plastic with steam. This allowed me to inlay it in long strips into the compound curves of a crossbow stock. The workable thickness of the rolls is slightly thicker but the stems are not plastic with steam. Unfortunately even the tips of the tines have a workable thickness of only maybe 3mm
  3. Looks like its a lot more dense than the fallow I use. Whats the longest inch wide strip do you think you could get from one?
  4. I found I liked my gouges and chisels ground to a totally non-standard angle, I am not very tall and my bench is not a standard height, if you are a standard height and have a bench that is a standard height, then standard angles will work for you, so go with a system. I go freehand. A light vertically shining on the stone is essential as you should be using the shadow under the cutting edge to guide you. You will feel the bevel engage with the stone, then gently smooth off the metal until the shadow under the blade disappears. A ruby stone and a rubber-disk in a bench grinder loaded with chrome autopolish is the best system, but the best sharpener by far is an ordinary belt sander with a slip stone to maintain the edge
  5. Insuring your stuff against theft and damage is a really good idea but although you might think it is usually the responsibility of the exhibitor, so your responsibility on your stall in a craft show, the shop owners in a gallery, etc, this isn't always the case and you should always check, one guy on a different forum lent some miniatures that had literally taken years to build to an international company for a major showcase and they were stolen when everyone was packing up, no-one had valued them, and an apology doesn't really cut it....
  6. If you think the timber should still be ok, I'll go have a chat with the landowner and see what he says. The ground conditions are really difficult, did I mention its at the top of a 20m river bank ?
  7. There is a medium size oak tree in the middle of an un-managed copse near me that was blown down in winter storms about 18 months ago. I do not know if the tree was diseased or just hit hard by the storms. Access is difficult, over 100 yards from the nearest road, crossing two fences and navigating a steep slope. Is it worth even taking a saw down there to see what condition the timber is in? If it is a worthwhile exercise would it be best to rough-out carvings on site to reduce weight or haul out the timber in round wood logs?
  8. Really like the Viking prow, wish I had time to get to the chainsaw, but really busy with work (not complaining about that) and family. Still plugging away at the crossbow though - take the bits and pieces to work to carve in my breaks - its a lot easier to carve a small panel than crank up the makita
  9. Water - just wipe with a damp rag
  10. Depends on what you find acceptable, I personally switch to a scraper at this point, but many will tell you to go to 400 and some will suggest 600. Hopefully you are damping the wood to raise the grain - sounds counter-intuitive but actually speeds the process up
  11. stuckinthemud

    Box

    Got to be honest, all my longbow staves are about that size and all are split lengthwise into staves, any not sealed developed shakes; now I seal everything.
  12. stuckinthemud

    Box

    Bitumen?! That's genius !

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