cornish wood burner
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Everything posted by cornish wood burner
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Thanks for the clarification Openspaceman. I presume you meant 300kw not MW. We have 4 MW total so are in the 300KW to 20MW band. Not burning leaves makes sense and I imagine difficult to exclude. This is a fairly new area for me so thanks to all for the info. I don't think I shall be on the list.
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Thanks for that info. While it looks like our boilers would comply with the regs with some extra monitoring, I don't think we would want to go down that route. Too much hassle for a small quantity of chip. I have always considered waste wood to be waste from a manufacturing process or recycling, totally different to normal biomass wood fuel. Unless I am missing something arb waste is clean wood but named waste by those who cut it. As I understand it wood chip from virgin timber can be burnt in biomass boilers only subject to the clean air act. So if the 'arb waste' chip is from virgin timber surely it follows that it is allowed to be burnt in biomass boilers without a waste wood permit.
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All seems to be geared towards sub 400KW boilers not the 990 and bigger that we have. As I read it a T6 exemption allows for waste wood to be chipped for ease of transport or conversion into wood fuel for biomass boilers. If I am interperating this correctly then all the tree surgeon needs is a T6 and he can dispose of his chip at a nearby biomass plant.
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I think we will need to look into this. However thinking logically the only difference I can see between our bought in round wood and chip compared to arb waste logs and chip is the fact that have paid money for ours. We store many hundreds of tons of chip and many thousands of tons of round wood so storage should not be an issue. We would be happy to get free or very cheap wood or chip and I think other large biomass users would feel the same. So if anyone is working in the Saltash area anyone would like to sell us some chip for our boiler, lengths of round wood for chipping or logs for my Rayburn please pm me. I wouldn't want to pay much but we would then be dealing with a product rather than waste so presumably no hassles with permits.
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So we are allowed to burn diseased larch but need another certificate to burn clean Arb waste?
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So what would you need to burn the tipped product in a biomass boiler or domestic fire?
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Gas maybe reasonably cheap at this point in time but like all energy sources price is governed by supply and demand so there is only one way the price will go. My point is that if you have a good wood supply then the obvious thing to do is use it. If you have read my post you will have a rough idea how much air you need to move but running ducting and fans to move that amount of air is not without its problems. Simplist system is a good back boiler feeding the central heating via a dhw tank/heat store. However it sounds like you might be past this point so you need to decide if you are going to live with the gas bills, install fans and ducting, or add something like a log boiler or another system outside to drive your heating. If you have gone down the instant hot water route then you would of course need a heat store as well.
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As wrsni says. Also another guide is motor wattage which will be related to flow and pressure. So for wattage /power read cleaning ability, that's why the PTO and petrol models are better. It might be worth keeping an eye on screwfix offers. I had About £70 off normal price when I bought mine
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Depends how much you want to spend I have a nilfisk 150 bar 2.9 kw at home. Hose reel which means much easier to store. Lance has a quick fit connection. Heavy duty domestic. Done about 30 hours so far with no problems. At work we have a couple of TX 100s. One is about 10 years old. No casing left. Runs for days on end. Total running time must be many months. Only problems a few filters new lance, new hose and 2x3 start capacitors. Indestructible but expensive. Not so easy to use from a kit storage point of view.
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Too small a boiler on a normal farm. You need to be looking for a boiler heating 50 houses, a factory, nursery etc .We buy round wood, dry and chip it but if I was offered some chip at a reasonable price and moisture content I would buy it. Leaves and fines present no problem to us, especially when mixed with our own chip. However as renewable john has said has to be local because of the transport.
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Have exactly the same problem. I used packing tape for a while but not the most attractive. I am looking at cowls for the soffit outlets which according to my electrician improve things. Living in a radon producing area unfortunately we need the under floor vents. One thing you can do if you have suspended floors is to install under floor heating pipes between the joists. 50 mm of celotex under them to trap the heat and it will work well. I used 20mm poly prop pipe which gives off about 10 w per metre. I run this off a 'T' between my modified Rayburn and hot water tank. A small pump to circulate and all good. Before this the Rayburn used to boil the water so we had to run it to waste. Nice warm floors to walk on after a few hours.
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We wouldn't be being sarcastic would we? Anyway it is an easy calculation to make but from memory if you want to move say a 1 kw from a room 10 deg hotter than the other then you need to move a few hundred cubic metres an hour. Fans normally have their output as part of their spec. A bathroom extractor for example might move around 100 cube an hour but it was a while ago now so don't take this as gospel.
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We run fairly large biomass boilers and sometimes buy chip in but the quality can be variable. Stobarts are no exception. What sort of moisture content are you guys talking about. Cornwall is a bit far but if it is reasonable quality then you might find a user in your area you could deal with. Normally a 1MW boiler or larger will have a fairly robust feed system
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Tree quip has done more saws I am sure so I would take his advice but I've used boiling water in the past on other pistons. Aluminium expands quicker than steel so the fit gets slacker. Just something to remember if your piston gudgen pin appears too tight.
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Aspen gets over the stale fuel problem. Old fuel is blamed quite rightly for attacking fuel lines etc. 14 inch is a nice size for most jobs you will have. MS 211(35cc) runs a 14 inch well, I have one and I have no regrets buying it. Not sure it would like 16 much but it is on its option list.
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Hi Tony You did not mentioned a chainsaw course so I suspect you may not have been on one. If my thoughts are correct I would recommend you do one. Things will happen quicker with your new saw so take it slow and carefull especially before you are familiar with it. Talk to your dealer at the very least. You will need some PPE if you havn't already got some. My order of importance would be Helmet, boots, steel toecap or better still chain saw ones, gloves, trousers. Do some reading reasearch on safety before you start. The little Stihl(171,181.211) handbook has some good info. Get yourself a patch /bill hook to clear the small branches before you start your saw work. Clear as you go, work carefully and safely. Good luck with it.
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It may be good value but a big jump in speed, bar length etc from the op's electric saw. I would have thought we should consider / enquire if his technique is good before recommending a saw with an 18 inch bar. Personally I would not like it on my conscience if it kicked back and bit him.
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Keep the chain sharp then you will be supprised what a 171 181 or 211 will cut. Logged up 3 ft diameter with my 211 in the past . Bought a bigger husky as well now but the little Stihl does fine. Just takes a little longer. Friend on mine has a small husky and has had oiler problems. Might be a one off. Price and dealer is something to study.'
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If you are still talking about the tank filter bin it and fit new. Easy things first.
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A challenge for the collective strength of Arbtalk
cornish wood burner replied to GardenKit's topic in General chat
Signed but couldn't afford to donate , spent all my money on aspen today. Worth it though. -
It always amazes me that a lot on here seem to hunt for bearings and seals in the equipment manufactures box. They do not make the seals and bearings so a timken bearing or the like will be just as good at a fraction of the price. Almost all bearing and seal suppliers offer a next day service so I would suggest doing what ES has done and get the parts quicker and cheaper probably. You just have read the number or get the seal or bearing measured.
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A bit o/t. Stratification in Thermal Stores
cornish wood burner replied to Stereo's topic in Firewood forum
If you do go down the wood boiler route it will save you money on gas. Whether you go the cheaper route as an option suggested by openspaceman or a better quality RHI quality boiler that is up to you and your finances. Payback is something to consider, RHI might tip the balance especially in view of your high usage. If you do consider this I would get at least two quotes but give the companies an idea of the size of house, temperatures and do not forget the good ventilation. Even if you do not accept any at least you will have some opinions on heat requirement. It might be worth considering running your underfloor directly from your new boiler and keeping the esse for dhw. When you fit the laddomat you can plumb to the top of your store presumably. -
A bit o/t. Stratification in Thermal Stores
cornish wood burner replied to Stereo's topic in Firewood forum
I fully understand your need for running the temperatures you do. What we need is to find a solution to enable you to do this. I have previously looked at the store web site and came to the conclusion that it was direct as you say(same water). Best answer to stop the cold water returning is a back end protection valve.(laddomat ) Your ease would in correctly then. Solar PV through the emersion is good. I believe you can get a monitor to feed it with any surplus rather than returning any to the grid. Expensive for 3 kw of heat to your water though. In view of the fact you have a plentyful supply of wood and need the heat I think I would go down the wood boiler route. Which one will need some research. One with a large wood capacity to run at night with one charge would be good. If you size your boiler correctly then gas should not be needed, possibly keep as a backup if you are away. -
I think you have to put the bar on THEN the chain brake?
