cornish wood burner

Not sure if you are referring to Keptenjim's trees or our nursery ones. Two different jobs. We intend to take ours down piecemeal, using the telehandler and cage with our qualified and experienced climber in the cage and tree. Telehanders that are used for personnel lifting need a 6 monthly check which ours always has. I am fairly sure our insurance covers tree and hedge maintenance but it is a good point Mattyf I will check that. I would guess 10 tonnes a tree and expect to take a month at least, which is why we are thinking about buying more in-house equipment.

As you say huge amount of wood. Has to be one at a time. Dismantle a bit and take it away. Really cramped. Goaty Unfortunately these split into a dozen or so limbs a couple of feet up. Certainly the first few interlock like their life depended on it. We might be able to drop a couple further in but there is no leeway between tunnel and lawn/garden. 6 metre gap and 6metre tree. Couple of telehandlers on site so as you say some pulling power but some weight as well. I would never be allowed to forget destroying a tunnel, my team puts them up so we are not supposed to flatten them. I will consider it if looks feasible. It would certainly save time.

Care to give us a price.

I think it might have been keptenjim straight felling, possible he was the one with the worries as well. Ours is dismantle unless we destroy tunnels, lawn and house.

Easier yes cheaper not sure. Doing it ourselves we can dispose of the wood at our leisure. Might be viable for an outside company to do it but they would need to be geared up to dismantle multistemed leylandii 15 metres high, 6 metres wide and 30 inch base with some bigger. A lot of wood to move/chip.

Not sure yet. Depends on work load. We might make a start in a month or two but it will be an in between job I expect.

I will have a look, why is the 365 cheaper is it older tech?

So between a 560 or 365 for the main cutting. I know it will seem extravagant to the man who signs the cheques but presumably it would be easier and safer high in the tree with a top handle. Bear in mind I will have to justify the spending so any good ideas for this or do you think we could manage without.

I think we will have to work down. Bosses lawn is next to some of them, poly tunnels other side and house on the end we need to start. Poly tunnels and boundary either side of others, I suspect he would not be best pleased with grooves in his lawn, polytunnels, or house. As you see a few complications. Would have been easier though especially with a little tug in the right direction.

Very good question. From an amateur point of view I believe interlocking boughs cause the biggest problem. Cut the wrong limb or too big a piece and it does not move.

I see you're trying to cheer me up now. Big telehandler big boom and I trust my man. I agree it always pays to take care though.

Not a problem I shall be firmly sat in the telehandler seat. Should be safe there. Seriously though we have an experienced tree climber on staff so he will be doing the cutting. Appreciate your concern though, I know leylandii can be pigs.

I work for a large nursery and we need to remove about 20 large leylandii. They are up to 36 inches at the base. We have a ms181 that we use for general hedge maintenance pruning etc but a bigger saw is needed for these trees. What saws would you recommend bearing in mind this is a one off job. Most cutting at height can be done from a telehandler cage so I think we can manage without a top handle but I am open to suggestions. Rather than risk secondhand we normally new equipment.

Occurred to me last night depemding what gear you have you might struggle to drill the 16 mm mounting holes. If this is the case assuming you have a pillar drill mount the ball to a piece of channel then either weld the channel directly into the blade or if you want quick release, drill two pieces of heavy flat top and bottom of the channel,weld the flat to the blade and drop two pins through from top to bottom. R clip or similar might be needed to stop pins jumping out.You would just be left with the two pieces of flat on the blade then.

Never done it but I suppose you could drill a couple of mounting holes in the blade and weld captive nuts behind. Probably more secure than a clamp top to bottom

That the one. Glad to hear (no pun intended) its quiet. Our neighbour will be happy with that. If we get it we have the brash from a huge leylandii hedge to put through and an ongoing job of shredding 3 litre pots of peat with bushy foliage. We intend to put the peat through our biomass boiler and possibly the leylandii if it shreds it small enough. Sounds good thanks

Already said I plan to use roundup but wouldn't salt be damaging as well?

We are going to look at a king feeder shredder in a week or so. Output is 7 cubic metre / hour Load from top or rear and takes a pallet sized load 50 HP Input required. Anyone know anything about these good or bad. Cheers

Had a Garmin for years, TomTom for 18 months which failed now back on Garmin. Navigation not much between them, possibly tomtom very marginally better although it still took us down country lanes 6ft wide We use the satnav to find good restaurants when we are away so Garmin is much better unless you are happy to dine out at McDonalds. Basically POI on Garmin better imo. Smart phone may be the way to go though

To explain a couple of questions the trees are between two fences only accessible from my soon to change neighbours side. They are obviously not really interested but later the trees will become a problem.Depending on my new neighbour I may not be able to return to accesses them again Regarding the environment the trees are between a wall and tarmac flanked by two drives. I would not even consider anything not biodegradable otherwise. Sounds like Roundup is the way to go though. Thanks all for the advice

Could the exhaust gas have been drawn into the saw and disrupted the cooling? Along with another problem such as a weak mixture tipping the balance causing an overheat. I am not a chainsaw engineer so I would be interested in an expert opinion on this as sometimes I use my saws in confined places

A little more detail for your fault finding Is the light output constant over rough ground? You could even cover the other light off road to get a better look. If not you have a supply/connection problem. Presumably you have the lucar spade connectors on your headlight so check they are a tight fit on the bulb. If you have a spare single spade check each connection individually. Ensure they are tight with no signs of arcing/burning. Check headlight unit for movement against the opposite side. Any looseness will cause vibration and kill your bulb. Even though it is the same bulb and unlikely to be a voltage problem it would only take a minute to check this. Your local garage would probably not charge you for this. Alternatively and probably best find someone who repairs starters/alternators to check the voltage. If you are using cheap replacements then they might be more susceptible to over voltage than the original equipment ones.

Normally blowing bulbs is a sign of too high an alternator voltage . However if it is the same bulb look for an intermittent supply to the bulb, constantly heating and cooling will shorten a bulbs life. Vibration will also cause the same problem. Faulty batch of bulbs, Try a different brand/ supplier.Few things for you to look at.

Normally manufactures put the chip in the key. Is Landrover different?

We have had an X reg 3.5t sprinter van for several years and it has not done us too badly. Drives better than our Iveco and more reliable. Iveco much newer and almost as rusty, especially chassis. Old ldv was the best, crude but always did the job. No info about tippers I am afraid. Traction on the sprinter not good on our van, too light on the back when empty