cornish wood burner

Same old story I have had to sort the controls and some mechanical work on two large commercial boilers. New industry over here. If you want some direction what to do next some more info would help. I have asked some questions yesterday if you look back. Also is your stove piped direct or indirect. I can do some calculations for you but I need the information to work with.

Have a practice with the old one first. Make sure you can do it without damaging the seal and of course get it back. Don't overdo the grease. Any doubts leave it alone.

Look on the bright side they will be cheap especially if you use a bearing stockist. A quick squirt of spray grease before storage and from time to time might help keep whatever grease is in the bearing fluid. If the bearing is new it might not penetrate but it will stop the shaft rusting and wearing the seal. Bearing manufacturers seem to be putting less and less grease in them now.

If you want a recommendation for electric, Forest master FM 16 Bought one earlier in the year. 8 ton max splitting force.Two speed, adjustable ram travel. Returns while you are reaching for the next log. Wedge from either end so the easiest end splits. Anything I can lift on to it has split. A lot quicker than you would think.

Did you grease it before you put it away?

My lad did a couple of tours there a few years ago and the second was a particularly hot area. I attended the regimental home coming parade and what struck me was the number of young men( lads would be a better description) with bits missing. Almost 10% fatalities but a lot more lost arms or legs etc.Not the ones that appear in the figures normally. I will never forget that day seeing so many brave young men maimed with their whole lives in front of them.

That size tank should be bouncing in an hour with anything like 17 kw. There is something very wrong with that system. One cause could be a drain/leak so the hot water is running out an overflow or underground. The tank is too small to be any use as a store, but running for 3 hours and not enough water for a shower. Crazy. How much wood is burnt per hour? We can work out the approximate heat input from that. Weight in kg would be ideal. The stove spend doesn't spend all its time shut down I presume.

What sort of room temperatures are you running and where do you control it What is the HW output of your stove and as already said dry wood? Store temperature? Sounds like you have the heating on at night? Have you good insulation under the under floor heating Have you checked for leaks ie constant topping up of the system? No overflow running hot water to waste? A 200 ltr tank is very small. It would be fine as a buffer while your stove comes up to temperature but as a store too small if you want to run heating from it. You have a much bigger thermal store available to you if your heating is set in concrete. Assuming this is the case can you turn the heating up by day when the fire is lit and turn it down a couple of degrees when it is out by night. This obviously depends on your controller.

If you are using a 200 Ltr tank the for every 10 deg you will store 2.3 kwh so from 50 to 70 store will hold 4.6 kWh not a lot!

The idea of stratification is to fill the top first, you then have water at the required temperature even if the tank is only 10% full. This will work on a direct system as water is fed in slowly at the top, however if you did the same with an indirect system you would only get say half a tank of hot water at best. With your tank supplying dhw I imagine the temperature is set relatively low so that will limit the storage capacity of a small tank even more.

That's good to know. The problem I have with my bump head is it takes longer to load/ retrieve the broken line than my manual when it snags. If you imagine 1 min strimming snag the line, fight with the plastic clips for a few mins 1 min strimming and snag again. Repeat 5 times and you understand why I hate mine for the rough stuff.

Did some test strimming today and tried my new 4 mm diamond edge and 3mm nylium. As a comparison the 4.4 portek precut I have been using was only 300mm long so I could drive 4 lines easily. I have found the 4 portek lines were pretty much indestructible but expensive. The 4mm diamond edge has a thicker section than the 4.4mm portek so I tried Stubby's 2 long line method. I started with 500mm which was probably too long but even after hitting sheep netting and wire a couple of times the diamond edge still survived. Amazing stuff, I would think even stronger than the portek. A little shorter in very long matted grass would have been better unless you have much more than 2 kw to drive it. I also tried 3mm nylium in my manual feed head. As you would expect I found it better/easier to drive than the 4 mm diamond edge in the same long matted grass but I did snap it on woody stems. It is certainly far better than the 3mm round I have been using. I had given up with the manual head and have been just using the portek 4 line head but I think I will use it again for thick grass with the stronger nylium. I suspect that in a bump head the nylium would stick. Not tried it though as I hate my bump head with a vengeance. As said previously different tools for different jobs.

You could just drop flyers to the first 20 and see if there is a reaction. Do the others the week after or split it into 10s to try and narrow it down. I think I might also walk the dog or wander around that area and look for a sign written van or equipment. Might be good info for the police if it goes that far. Probably not worth starting a war over though.

5.5 ton

Any bearing factor should help you out. You just need to take the inner and outer diameters for them to measure.

MC6012 is what I use. I just had a look on their site but didn't see that one there now. Might still be available but which ever one you get best to check its calibration yourself.

I use a moisture meter from Axminster tools and for chip it is very accurate. I have calibrated ours at various MC using microwave and scales. It reads a little low at 45%.and above. I have used ours to monitor chip MC both home produced and bought in for many years , and it is still fine. If you use the microwave method small pieces low power and go steady as you approach 0% otherwise you will have a fire and a wasted test.

Depending on the feed system fines could cause a problem with chip flow or machinery if they build up. Reduced air flow through the chip due to too many fines. Fines becoming airboure and burning in the wrong place. Its not a problem we have so others might add to this.

Yes but we were after G100. Chipper had a lot of things wrong I believe. 30 mm screen is used to produce G30 in most of the chippers I have come across.

There seems to be a lot of things that affect chip size as well as the screen. Engine power, infeed speed, stress control, blade sharpness, blade cutting edge angle, wood being chipped, moisture content, chipper clearances, wear and even the blower can beat the chip into smaller pieces. We had one chipper that produced a fairly good imitation of G30 through a 80 mm screen

Space invaders at the pub.

I laid an oak floor and used the leftovers to build a log box and tv stand to match. Must get/make something for the Rayburn in the kitchen to replace the stylish fish food plastic tubs. Only good thing about them is no sawdust on the floor.

Bought some for the boss from the same place as mine and they had changed to plastic. So I suspect progress. They are still very good but with wider plastic gears. Cutting 40 mm you might need to work them around the branch a little, like a pipe cutter to be safe. Bought these something like 10 years ago maybe longer for the steel ones. You might need deep pockets in your jacket though.

I've got the steel gear version which presumably is the older ones. Done us well cutting up to 40 mm. Same short handles though

Thanks, I will have a look around for sitrex mowers. Sounds a good option if he goes a little bigger. Presumably the blades are vee belt driven with one blade in front of the others. Not sure about removing /raising the deck on the JD but the ground clearance when not in use and removal is certainly something to bear in mind. I am familiar with bigger tractors mowers and toppers but compacts are a new thing for me. I should have a better idea if we see it next week.