cornish wood burner

It always amazes me that a lot on here seem to hunt for bearings and seals in the equipment manufactures box. They do not make the seals and bearings so a timken bearing or the like will be just as good at a fraction of the price. Almost all bearing and seal suppliers offer a next day service so I would suggest doing what ES has done and get the parts quicker and cheaper probably. You just have read the number or get the seal or bearing measured.

If you do go down the wood boiler route it will save you money on gas. Whether you go the cheaper route as an option suggested by openspaceman or a better quality RHI quality boiler that is up to you and your finances. Payback is something to consider, RHI might tip the balance especially in view of your high usage. If you do consider this I would get at least two quotes but give the companies an idea of the size of house, temperatures and do not forget the good ventilation. Even if you do not accept any at least you will have some opinions on heat requirement. It might be worth considering running your underfloor directly from your new boiler and keeping the esse for dhw. When you fit the laddomat you can plumb to the top of your store presumably.

I fully understand your need for running the temperatures you do. What we need is to find a solution to enable you to do this. I have previously looked at the store web site and came to the conclusion that it was direct as you say(same water). Best answer to stop the cold water returning is a back end protection valve.(laddomat ) Your ease would in correctly then. Solar PV through the emersion is good. I believe you can get a monitor to feed it with any surplus rather than returning any to the grid. Expensive for 3 kw of heat to your water though. In view of the fact you have a plentyful supply of wood and need the heat I think I would go down the wood boiler route. Which one will need some research. One with a large wood capacity to run at night with one charge would be good. If you size your boiler correctly then gas should not be needed, possibly keep as a backup if you are away.

I think you have to put the bar on THEN the chain brake?

Spaceman , The occupants in your block of flats sound just like our foreign workers. All rad stats to max and windows open. If I was looking at the right one that thermal store appears to have direct tappings for a wood burner so not much chance of stratification with Stereo's setup. Any thoughts /opinion on the Navora and domestic RHI. 2.35 kw is not going to be much use for maintaing 20 deg with windows open.

Bottom line is you need a lot more heat. Have a look at the HDG Navora gasification wood boiler 20kw 150 Ltr capacity fire box so one loading would last a long time. Your installer should be able to check what size you need from your gas usage. Should make your gas boiler almost redundant. Not cheap at 8k ish but I imagine your gas bill is not peanuts either.

Just like the chainsaw section. Swinger with wide tracks if you need one.

Garden trug or fish food buckets Neither would qualify in the look good stakes though. Off load into a wood box for the lounge

I use a variety of sizes down to below 2 inch in my open fire, burns great. I have made several U shaped frames with legs to keep 2 or 3 metre length off the ground. The sides of the Us support a 2 metre high stack and allow the wind to blow through. Different size timber takes different drying times so I have several stacks. I cover them when partially dry or before the winter. I have a limited wood supply for my own use so use almost everything. The wife sometimes even cuts smaller twigs up with loppers or secateures for kindling. Softwood in the Rayburn and the good stuff for the open fire.

You forgot quiet. Could be a big consideration if neighbours are close.

Without going any further I am certain with a solid walled vented house you need much more heat than your esse can produce. The size of your thermal store is too small even if you had the energy to heat it. Enough to buffer an automatically fed wood burner starting up but pathetic as a store. You are not producing heat through the night so the store needed to be big enough to meet your demand. Only really suitable for dhw. Your esse's 2kw would be fine for dhw only. Your problem is the heating is draining the system and you are getting cold water back to the stove.causing a cold spot adjacent to the back boiler.This in turn as I am sure Alycidon would agree is bad for burning. You know the remedy for this. I see three choices for you. 1. Fit a bigger boiler to your esse if available or bigger esse W35 I believe. Not looked at the figures for this,but something to investigate. You still would need to run your stove 24/7 to make any impact on your heating. 2 Accept you are going to burn a lot of gas to run your heating 3 Install a small wood chip or pellet boiler to run your heating. I have no info on this but others might be able to tell you if you would be eligible for RHI. Do you need to have a well insulated property to qualify?

Certainly you need a control to keep the stove water temperature high. Can you read the store temperature at a few points, ie top middle bottom. I was after the max temperature your store gets up to. How many hours a day do you run your stove and after this what has the tank warmed up to. When you run it next try and get an approximate weight of wood/hour consumed when on full chat.

Are you sure about 2.25kw? ie less than 3 If that is right then its very low and not enough for the conditions you describe.

Same old story I have had to sort the controls and some mechanical work on two large commercial boilers. New industry over here. If you want some direction what to do next some more info would help. I have asked some questions yesterday if you look back. Also is your stove piped direct or indirect. I can do some calculations for you but I need the information to work with.

Have a practice with the old one first. Make sure you can do it without damaging the seal and of course get it back. Don't overdo the grease. Any doubts leave it alone.

Look on the bright side they will be cheap especially if you use a bearing stockist. A quick squirt of spray grease before storage and from time to time might help keep whatever grease is in the bearing fluid. If the bearing is new it might not penetrate but it will stop the shaft rusting and wearing the seal. Bearing manufacturers seem to be putting less and less grease in them now.

If you want a recommendation for electric, Forest master FM 16 Bought one earlier in the year. 8 ton max splitting force.Two speed, adjustable ram travel. Returns while you are reaching for the next log. Wedge from either end so the easiest end splits. Anything I can lift on to it has split. A lot quicker than you would think.

Did you grease it before you put it away?

My lad did a couple of tours there a few years ago and the second was a particularly hot area. I attended the regimental home coming parade and what struck me was the number of young men( lads would be a better description) with bits missing. Almost 10% fatalities but a lot more lost arms or legs etc.Not the ones that appear in the figures normally. I will never forget that day seeing so many brave young men maimed with their whole lives in front of them.

That size tank should be bouncing in an hour with anything like 17 kw. There is something very wrong with that system. One cause could be a drain/leak so the hot water is running out an overflow or underground. The tank is too small to be any use as a store, but running for 3 hours and not enough water for a shower. Crazy. How much wood is burnt per hour? We can work out the approximate heat input from that. Weight in kg would be ideal. The stove spend doesn't spend all its time shut down I presume.

What sort of room temperatures are you running and where do you control it What is the HW output of your stove and as already said dry wood? Store temperature? Sounds like you have the heating on at night? Have you good insulation under the under floor heating Have you checked for leaks ie constant topping up of the system? No overflow running hot water to waste? A 200 ltr tank is very small. It would be fine as a buffer while your stove comes up to temperature but as a store too small if you want to run heating from it. You have a much bigger thermal store available to you if your heating is set in concrete. Assuming this is the case can you turn the heating up by day when the fire is lit and turn it down a couple of degrees when it is out by night. This obviously depends on your controller.

If you are using a 200 Ltr tank the for every 10 deg you will store 2.3 kwh so from 50 to 70 store will hold 4.6 kWh not a lot!

The idea of stratification is to fill the top first, you then have water at the required temperature even if the tank is only 10% full. This will work on a direct system as water is fed in slowly at the top, however if you did the same with an indirect system you would only get say half a tank of hot water at best. With your tank supplying dhw I imagine the temperature is set relatively low so that will limit the storage capacity of a small tank even more.

That's good to know. The problem I have with my bump head is it takes longer to load/ retrieve the broken line than my manual when it snags. If you imagine 1 min strimming snag the line, fight with the plastic clips for a few mins 1 min strimming and snag again. Repeat 5 times and you understand why I hate mine for the rough stuff.

Did some test strimming today and tried my new 4 mm diamond edge and 3mm nylium. As a comparison the 4.4 portek precut I have been using was only 300mm long so I could drive 4 lines easily. I have found the 4 portek lines were pretty much indestructible but expensive. The 4mm diamond edge has a thicker section than the 4.4mm portek so I tried Stubby's 2 long line method. I started with 500mm which was probably too long but even after hitting sheep netting and wire a couple of times the diamond edge still survived. Amazing stuff, I would think even stronger than the portek. A little shorter in very long matted grass would have been better unless you have much more than 2 kw to drive it. I also tried 3mm nylium in my manual feed head. As you would expect I found it better/easier to drive than the 4 mm diamond edge in the same long matted grass but I did snap it on woody stems. It is certainly far better than the 3mm round I have been using. I had given up with the manual head and have been just using the portek 4 line head but I think I will use it again for thick grass with the stronger nylium. I suspect that in a bump head the nylium would stick. Not tried it though as I hate my bump head with a vengeance. As said previously different tools for different jobs.