cornish wood burner

A word of warning that margin is not quite so juicy as first appears. I appreciate areas vary but from my experience that wood cost is very slightly low and the chip cost high. Advertised chipping cost does not normally include travelling and you would have some handling and chip delivery costs. We chip 500 tons at a time and I would like to think we are quite efficient. It costs us about £10/ton for dry chip. The other big hit is loss of weight. Bought in wood will be up to 60% moisture but the end product chip around 18%, so you will lose 42% of the weight of your original investment. There will still be a margin but these are a few things for you to take into account

TA/ army did arrange it. No info on which company I'm afraid. Why not ask at the TA when you go next. You could very well get a discount for being a member of the armed forces.

Agreed. Must be collectors out there that exhibit at vintage rallies. Why not go to a rally and ask around. No idea what they are worth but they look in very good nick and I expect someone would be interested.

Thats a fairly cheap bit, a genuine one won't be expensive. Good luck with it.

The problem with that is it will slowly sink into the earth. Weight, action of worms etc. Much better to cover with a membrane such as mypex. Water will go through but weed roots from the top will pull out easily. Will save you topping up every few years and save spray originally and in the future.

Got my bits locally from Callington garden machinery. Any garden machinery dealer should be able to work out what bits you need. Sounds like you need both washers to sandwich the blade.

As a matter of interest where did it all come from and how did you end up with it.

You will need the heavy washer after the blade. The big domed one is too thin. It just act as a skid as far as I know. My bump head went in the bin but I am strimming 1/2inch blackthorn and stones so slightly different to you. No idea if the new Stihl heads fit I'm afraid.

I had to buy the blade, mounting washers, nut and domed nut skid. Expensive but worth it. Drive washer fits under the tin guard. You probably have that. It has 4 holes for the locking pin to enable you to tighten the nut. Blade fits next then the thick slightly domed retaining washer which has a hole with two flats that fit the drive. Then skid and lastly nut. I don't think I would buy a bump head unless you are only strimming light grass. Jet fit or portek for precut lines are better IMO. Have a look at the best strimmer line thread a page back in the landscaping section. If you get one of these heads make sure it cannot move on the shaft though. I have a portek head which I was running on another strimmer until it moved a little and became unbalanced. Shook the carb bolts loose. That has made me a bit nervous of them now. I have very stoney ground so I use a line for what most would use a blade for. As an experiment I have bought some extra eyelets for my manual feed head. I have opened the holes out to 5 mm so I can use 4 mm diamond edge line. This is virtually indestructible so should last longer than the high strength lines I have been using in it. If it is successful then there will be absolutely no danger of out of balance as it will be mounted directly on the drive shaft. If sucessful it will be cheaper than a special head as well. Hope to test it in a few days time.

Just reread your original post and your saw is different to what I was thinking. Apologies but I dont think my info will be applicable to your saw.

Also I think you might be counting the rakers (depth gauges) as well as the cutting teeth. Mine has 24 cutting and 48 drive links (inner teeth )with a 12 inch bar. So if that is the case you probably have a 10 inch bar measured from the front of the saw body to the bar tip. Probably about13 or 14 inch overall length. Also most important No chain brake on that saw so be careful !!!!!

Just had a look and the chain has mini 370 on 48 drive links. Bar is Oregon 120DGEA061 OT S48/91-48 My saw came with a 10 inch bar but that is 12 inch I believe. I would think 14inch would be a bit big for that little saw. Hope that helps

I also have a homelite Xl2 auto. Last bar I took along to my local dealer and he matched it up with an Oregon bar. I think originally it came with a 10 or 12 inch bar as it can be used as a top handle. I can look later for details if you don't get definite info.

Had various electrical kit failing when hot. Used to be a favourite with coils, and condensers on the older cars.

If you mean Fs280k then I have one. Quite an old model but around 40cc 1 .9 kw Runs a 300mm blade or heavy line. Very pleased with mine.Starts well, very little vib. A lot of machine for the money if reasonable condition

Chipboard factory or power station ? However I think they might they might prefer better wood. Might be worth investigating though. I expect you might have to find another home for the sleepers. Landscaper/gardener parhaps for raised beds/free ads. Looks bit of a liability as it is, I suspect burning will be your cheapest option.

Dont forget being deployed. Can be much more of a risk. I think my lad had similar insurance to what you are after when he did his tours. TA /army might have aranged it. If you can wait until Monday I will ask him.

All good quality stuff, but don't do as William did as that's abuse of a good quality tool. Even if it was 3/4 drive its not recommended. That's what breaker bars are for. Sorry William but best to use the correct tool for the job.

I'm sure your right but I have heard it mentioned it is rarer abroad. Probably an area thing. Park your merc overnight in the Stonehouse area of Plymouth and it would be 50/50. Do the same in Germany and it would be OK. Just what I've heard.

I think its called envy. Typical example is a nice car that has been keyed.

Thanks Logan interesting info. I know exactly what you mean by drunk regrowth. I was looking at some last weekend. Some were growing horizontal, weird shapes. Thanks to all who have replied

Part of my pension Jon. But you win some and lose some. The chance you take. I agree with you about some of the things that the big supermarkets do though ( not only Tescos I'm sure)

Not only the younger generation. I have bought saws via the net and they are very cheap. Had problems and the backup was take it to your local dealer. However I have also bought a saw again via the internet but from what was a proper bricks and mortar dealer. Obviously a little more money but this time the saw was put together, fine tuned and tested. The difference is the second dealers product was trouble free out of the box. So my experience of these two companies is you get what you pay for and if we lose our high street / hands on dealers we will be the poorer for it.

Avoid timed tooth belts if you can. Hitting an obstacle causes the belt to jump and blades can touch

I think they do have long reach. Bought a set for my lad and was quite impressed with the selection. Don't think its Britool quality but not Britool price either.