cornish wood burner

As logrod's Joe public with no certificate why would I want one?

Never heard of using eels before. When we drilled our second borehole it produced much more than now. I thought the water table had dropped and we gave it up. Looking down it the other day I could see the water surface so it might have blocked. Not sure I would do it but if your theory is right then eels might improve the flow, a bit harsh on them though. Years ago we used to get problems with eels swimming into a spring fed pipe and blocking it. The pipe was about 1/2 mile long and after a few days they would appear at the other end much thinner and dead of course.. I have installed an underground rainwater recycling catchment tank as part of a ''green'' planning requirement. You probably know this but they come in a variety of sizes with a gauze filter on the 110mm inlet. Just drop in a sump pump with its own float switch any you are away. Cost is the only downside but all you see is a green manhole cover about 600mm.

To avoid staining might be best to use brass or stainless fixings. I screwed my floor down with stainless screws as cross head screws are easy to put in with a cordless drill. You will need to drill a clearance hole and ideally countersink as very little give in oak.

Luck of the draw Mick. The farm I grew up on had a well/spring running to the surface that produced crystal clear sweet tasting water at more than 1500 lph, more in the winter. A few miles away the nursery I work for has two boreholes both 100 M deep and 150M appart. One produces 4000 lph the other 100 lph, both so dirty that we have to strip and clean the pump every year. Water level comes up to around 5M below the surface in the second one but once its pumped out it refills at 100 lph To get a usable pressure from your rain water tanks you probably need to spend several hundred pounds just on a pump and as you say that buys a lot of water.

Any cattle or sheep driven along your road? That might make your choice for you. My favourite from a looks point of view would be post and rail as per THS but you have a risk of having a garden full of sheep until your hawthorn is tall enough to keep them out. Johno's suggestion will be stock proof but might be over kill for a front fence unless there is a lot of stock movement. Your idea of wire would be easy to erect but you might need an extra wire or two as it needs to be readily seen. I think I would have chat with your local farmer ask his advice and find out if livestock travel up and down the road. If nothing else it would be a good way of introducing yourself. Sounds like a nice setup you have there BTW.

Hi Sally Two points about this. Firstly The more I see of that hole the less it looks like it was made by a drill. Secondly that is a very small piece of soil in the corner of your drive/ garden. With the wall and fence next to it chances are that there is building waste etc under it which would only affect the deeper rooted things such as your tree and lavender. The tree experts might also have somethig to say about the area available for roots. Smaller plants and weeds would grow on top but probably not if some noxious chemical had been applied. I have had trees/ shrubs and there replacements die after building work which I can only put down to building residues. As an aside ivy is pretty much hated by gardeners and arborists so I would have thought he was trying to do you a favour. I'm afraid if I was a member of the jury I would find your neighbour innocent. Sorry if that is not the answer you were hoping for, but that is my opinion.

Careful Sally, it sounds like you are not on the best of terms with your neighbour already. Asking him outright what he poisoned your tree with, could start a war. Maybe he did administer something but as I said before doesn't look like a drill hole to me. Alternatively could your tree just have been in decline and the hole is a symptom of that. Something in the ground that trees and shrubs dont like perhaps. If that is the case and your neighbour is innocent then he will feel very aggrieved with you. You have to live with the resulting fallout so consider your response carefully.

Doesn't look the right shape for a drill hole to me. Even if it was drilled at an angle it would then be elliptical but this looks like it has almost a pointed top.

Didn't quite catch it but did she say get on with it you have shelves to put up

The cage is internal and keeps the rollers spaced and in place. Are we talking about a self aligning bearing? I presume you mean the grease is coming out between the outer race and the bearing housing which is at a larger diameter than the outside of the seal? If this is the case then your problem is a normal grease way blocked.

I needed to remove a clump of 6 to 12 inch ash between the road and my garden fence. It would have been difficult to take the fence down so I cut the first two that were close to it to just over fence height, then used the stumps to bounce the rest over it. Had to avoid several of the wife's shrubs/trees in the garden. Bearing in mind it is not my profession and I only had a foot or so either side of my drop zone, it gave me a big grin to do it without any error or damage. Cut a lot bigger in the past but I think that series of fells comes top of my favourites list.

Done a little research and assuming wikipedia etc are correct it looks like halfords pro used the earlier snap on design and the first couple of batches were made at the snap on factory. After that halfords sets were made elsewhere. By danaher I believe who started apex tools in partnership with another company. Apex now make halfords, so now no connection with snap on except the design assuming they still use it. If you have an early halfords pro set they it just might have been made by snap on, but not now.

Mart. Going back to your original post are you sure that the grease is coming out of the seal? Often it comes out between bearing and housing. I was suprised at your post as skidding of bearings is a very complex subject and we are still learning about the mechanism of this. Lubricating the cage is very important so it is not only about the rollers. True, bearings need space to roll but in a heavily loaded high speed application I would expect excess to be ejected and the bearing to run normally after a short while. Dirt, vibration, speed, load, all shorten a bearings life so expect to change bearings even if they have been lubricated correctly. I dont think it is best practice to pump until grease comes past the seal but little and often is probably the way to go.

Compressed air is a much lower pressure than a grease gun. Not sure what you would do with a jet wash more than wash off the outside surface contamination. The answer is to grease little and often from the start. By doing that you have the best chance of keeping the small grease ways clear. Strip and clean is probably a waste of time as if you have it apart best to put a new bearing in. The bearing housings in self aligning bearings normally wear so grease will escape from the low spots. I have come across replacement centres for these but I would not recommend using them for this reason. Not read all this post so apologies if I have repeated someone's advice.

I have probably just under an acre that had waist high bracken and 6 ft of brambles a few years ago I wanted to control the weeds and plant saplings. I have bought an old Westwood ride on mower and cut about every 4 weeks. No sign of brambles or bracken now. If you keep it cut both get weaker as time goes on. Luckily my ground is fairly smooth so the ride on is quick and easy, but if you can cut regularly by some means then that should do what you want.

No chance of a ten ton tipper load being delivered then? Bit far for you CP but if anyone is in the plymouth area I have some good contacts.

So even more expensive. I am sure they have put the price down when the bags went lighter. I normally buy a lorry load in the region of £12 to £18 / tonne delivered depending on what material. Ideal if you have the space to store it, a hard surface to tip on and ideally a wall behind for loading.

That was my first thought but I stopped short of telling him that. Might be interesting to do some research into that if anyone has the inclination.

1.75 is wet from the quarry. Builders bag is a very expensive way of buying aggregate but convenient for small quantities. Could be up to 3 times the price / tonne depending on your deal with the quarry. It is not a cubic metre as some think. Might have been a tonne at one stage but I believe it is now 900kg. No guarantee on that figure though.

According to the halfords man, snap on make their socket sets for them. I don't know if that is right but I used my lads halfords set the other day and it does have that shiney snap on feel. Seems fine

It is if you work in metres. If you want say 50mm depth then that is .05M Once you have the volume then for weight multiply by about 1.6 depending on what gravel you put down. Coarse sand is 1.75 tonnes per cubic metre Gravel I think a little less hence 1.6 but you could multiply volume by 1.7 to be safe

Usual to buy logs by volume I guess but the same calc would look a lot worse by weight. I agree driving the water off is not a huge cost if burnt in a suitable appliance but how about in an older inefficient appliance?

You new customer might have realised that he or she will get more heat (kWh) from 20% MC wood against the same volume of 30% MC. There is no point buying wood then burning it to boil off excess moisture. Better to source guaranteed dry wood and the way to accurately check that is with a calibrated moisture meter.

So was I. Must be Cornish humour. Most of my wood is from a mature hedge and is full of knots. I have found even a 300 mm fork can be difficult with a maul which is why I bought my splitter. Not in the league of yours of course but it gets the job done. Beats using wedges or getting the saw out IMO.

Or you could deliver them to the Cornish wood burner so he could split them with his small domestic electric splitter.