cornish wood burner

So what would you do with all the difficult timber?

Check with the meters Weigh the wood Dry the wood in the oven or slowly in the microwave Weigh again The weight loss is water so that is your percentage of moisture Weight loss/ original weight is %mc Some kitchen scales weigh to 1 or 2 grams so ideal and cheap

Agree with that even more. How's the family I trust all went well when you returned.

Its the base oil that does the lubrication so if you are heavily loading the grease or running at extreme temperatures and speed the oil will be shed quicker from its carrier. Once this happens then as you say Mart the remaining soap does not have the correct lub properties. Many years ago my collegues did have a damaging case of balls skidding in a gyro bearing but apparently that was down to the lub used being too slippery. That shows you need to use the correct grease for the bearing applied in the correct quantity at the correct interval, considering the loading and temperatures it will experience. I have always worked on little and often but the manufactures guidelines should of course be followed especially in high stressed situations. The other thing I have seen too many times is the grease gun put on the nipple without cleaning it first. Any grit etc present will then of course be pumped into the bearing

Be warned that 7000 may be an average but I have known them crack at a lot less hours than that. Its a long time ago now but I think I had one go at a few thousand hrs, it had an easy life and was meticulously serviced. Most common failure is cold water returning from the rad hitting no 1 bore, but I have had them go at the bottom between two bores as well. Shame because it spoils an otherwise good tractor. We put engine oil in the diesel and that seems to work. Probably not so good as 2 stroke but cheaper and more readily available in our case.

Not much compaction until the trailer moves. Biggest compaction we have found is in the shed when the telehandler pushes in and runs on the chip. I would guess we get up to an extra 25% weight / volume in the bottom half of the shed. Chip for our boiler is very close to 4 cube / tonne. Wet might be 2.5 as already said.

Just a few hundred degrees will degrade the loctite.

Spot on Codlasher. Get a stick welder from your local welding supplier, they will offer you advice and all the other bits that go with it. Inverter, around 180 amp from a known manufacturer should be OK.

Only real problem I have come across is cracked blocks. Earnt me a lot of money in my agricultural engineering days. Core plugs at the back of the head and flywheel end sometimes go if it has not had its quota of antifreeze. Superior to the 35/135 to drive. I would say comparable to the MF240 which is a very good machine. However the 240 is more reliable in my experience. I would seriously consider the 240 if it was my money.

Are you saying you are wasted in the wood. I thought those plants needed more light. Definitely real talent there Mr I. A smile has to be a good start to any day. Thanks

Sorry that's a lot bigger than I thought you would need. Woodberry Chilcott Plymouth would be worth a call. I have bought several pieces of special steel from them in the past and they have always been helpful. Explain what you need it for and they will do their best to sort it for you. That will be a fair chunk of money though. Can you go thicker rather than stronger.

A piece of high carbon steel etc will cost a bit from a steel stockholder but an old telehandler cutting edge from your local farmer/contractor might be just scrap price. Alternatively a suitable plough piece from your local agricultural dealer might also be cheaper as you could buy the size you want.

Hi Doddie, T20s and some 35s have quite low low flow rates. 3 .or possibly 3.5 gpm which is similar to a good electric splitter. If its for your own use then speed is not really an issue otherwise a PTO splitter would be the answer. I grew up on a farm and one of our tractors was a little diesel 20. Great machine, built well, easy to drive and lasts forever. It is good to see these old tractors used for what they were built for, you just have to size the implement to suit. Make sure you have a working ki gas when you buy it. Starts so much easier and the tank and pump are very expensive for what they are. Good luck with it.

Aspenarb your first job tomorrow should be to fit a divider between your seats and tools. Even a slow speed front end collision could be fatal with that lot coming at you. It might not be your fault but you would reap the consequences.

I cut my own firewood and if I was offered that for free and I needed firewood then I would take that in the blink of an eye, I don't see the problem. If you are doing it in your own leisure time it becomes a hobby. Same reason I like my saw, its not the fastest but it is pleasant to use so I enjoy using it. I expect most hobby firewood cutters have the same views.

That's a big compressor, in the region of 30kw of power needed How about something that would drive a jackhammer. Might be worth talking to a construction hire company.

Bar length depends on what diameter you wish to cut.

In Cornwall we have companies that specialise in selling, fitting and repairing tyres. What you need to do is take it along to one of these companies and say fix this please. End of your headache and the start of theirs. If they cover agricultural tyres they will have many contacts and should sort it.

My 211 has been faultless but I suspect you won't go wrong with either. You local dealer should be considered and might be the deciding factor.

Planning has to be time well spent, especially if you can talk it through with your neighbour. Hope it goes well

I believe the point Eddie is trying to get across is that even doing the bulk digging an inexperienced operator will be lucky to achieve 60% of what an experienced one can. I have worked with several different drivers and machines over the years and I have found that although it helps, experience does not guarantee a good driver. Good operators stand out by how they approach a job, operate the machine to achieve economy of movement and finally accuracy of finish. Watching and working with good experienced operators have shown me that there is a lot more to digger driving than pulling the levers.

I suppose we should add carb setting to the possibilities. Agree with no decomp to start a 365. Ours goes from I'm tired, let the lads have a go to impossible let's run over it. Joking aside I think there must be a problem with ours, always been a bitch to start from new. We just need to find a good local dealer that will have a look under warranty. Always the down side of buying over the internet.

Our 365 is good IF we can start it. Much prefer my 450 though, might not last as long or cut quite as quick as the 365 but its lighter, nicer to handle, better on fuel, starts easily every time (unlike the 365)and runs like a dream even with an 18 inch bar.

Depends on the size of toy you want to play with. 15 ton probably is big enough but it depends on the ground and how deep you want to go. If a 15 ton machine has enough reach and the ground is soft enough for it to dig at depth then thats the one to hire. Towards the end of a job I have had a 30 ton machine with a single ripper tooth defeated by the cornish shillet and we have had to resort to a second machine with a hammer for a few days. 70 ton machine probably would have just dug it but at that size you are talking serious money. Within reason get the correct size machine for the job you are going to do, it will save you money at the end of the day. Regarding bunding I don't think you will have a problem as far as regulations are concerned. 200ltr drum, shed storage or agricultural use which has a higher limit should mean you dont have to join. Always a good idea though if its not too much hassle. Don't take this as gospel but that's how I understood the regs unless they have changed.

Second that If available I would be tempted to get a quote for a bigger machine, it would be a lot easier and quicker. We are digging a small pond at the moment with a local 15 ton machine but it requires a bit of shuffling around. In the past we have used several 25 ton machines and they have more reach, far more digging power and a bigger bucket. If the ground is soft a long reach with wide tracks is what you need. Amazing what they will do in a day.