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About Paddler

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  1. Which course would you recommend? I don't need a lecture on PPE (I have bought it all!) I don't need to know how to start a saw or basic maintenance. I am just interested in learning how to cut limb's which are wider than bar length on the ground, or in the saw horse for that matter. I appreciate it is easy for an instructor to spend half a day talking about the importance of PPE and kite marks etc, but I don't need to pay for that!
  2. There seems to be a lot of talk that you can cut one and a half bar lengths with a chain saw. However all the information I have seen about this seems to relate to felling trees. I am never going to be felling big trees, but I do need to deal with big limbs and trunks when on the ground. So if I am using a 14 inch bar and want to cut a 20 inch limb this should in theory be possible. But to do this the kickback zone is going to be imbedded in the timber, isn't it? I'm tempted to buy a bigger chainsaw, say with an 18 inch bar, so I can cut larger limbs with out burying the tip. But how do you cross cut timber larger than the bar length,especially if the limb trunk is on the ground? Thanks
  3. I am looking for a cordless Li-on chainsaw. Has anybody any experience of using either the Stihl or Husky at the domestic end of the market? Both are the same price. The Stihl seems lighter which is good as it needs to be carried, but Stihl seem to have come up with a ridiculous battery idea, in that each range of its cordless tools needs a different battery. So I couldn't buy a MSA 120 and then upgrade the saw to the pro model in a year or two as it would need an entirely different battery!! What were Stihl thinking? From the website it looks as though Husqvarna have taken the sensible approach in that at least the same battery will fit the pro and domestic range of saws! Has anybody used either saw? What are your thoughts? Thanks
  4. Thanks for that, but no dealers anywhere near me (I am in Scotland) and it is only for domestic use, not commercial!
  5. I need a ride on lawn mower (probably a mulched to save time on disposing of clippings). The problem is part of the lawn slopes at 10-15 degrees, and is uneven. I am trying to even it out through time, but the slope is always going to be there. Some of the cutting has to be done side on as well adding to the complication! Also to access this hill, the machine will have to go up and down (but not cut) a 20 degrees short slope. Any suggestions? I have been thinking of a AWD Husqvarna rider. Would this machine cope? Thanks
  6. The Husqvarna riders look good. I am thinking of getting one to save time with collection and disposal of the cuttings. Do they give a good finish? Will I notice that the grass hasn't been collected or will it be a fine enough finish that I won't notice the difference? Also how do they cope with slopes and uneven lawns?
  7. Are these any good? How do they compare to the Stihl 2 stroke models? I like the idea of the Makita as it is 4 stroke so should be easier/quicker to start and cheaper on fuel. I would want to use it as a vac, not a blower. Has anybody used both the Makita and the Stihl? Which would you choose? In theory the Makita should be cheaper to maintain and run, but does it have sufficient performance? Thanks
  8. Its back ! £150 looks almost the same as the Scheppach one at £330 in Screwfix. None left within a 30 mile radius of me! They sold out on the day!! WOODSTAR Hydraulic Wood Splitter - Sunday, 16.10. - Lidl UK Are there any left anywhere in UK? Hopefully Aldi will follow soon!
  9. I am fairly new to chainsawing and keen to learn more. I have looked at CS /LANTRA courses, but what I don't want is half a day on the importance of PPE and identifing kite marks etc. I have bought PPE and know the importance of it, that's why I am looking for a course! I know how to start the saw from cold/hot and have limited experience of crosscutting, usually with the logs held in a horse. I can fuel, oil and sharpen the chain. So are there any "real world" courses out there, without the nonsense? I am not looking to work in the industry, just want a course suitable and they all seem too basic or too advanced. What I want more safe experience of is cutting limbs larger than guide bar, and limbs on the ground. I don't want to fell any trees, just deal with them once they fall. I realise half day in a lecture room is easy for the course providers, but surely a quick check of equipment and the rest spent on practical skills would be better for most users, with theory thrown in during the day. Does such a course exist?
  10. I am looking for a new brush cutter for long grass and weeds etc. The FS 94 CE is lighter and more importantly according to the figures has lower vibration levels, but equally only comes with a blade and single strap, so a harness and line spool would have to be added separately. Th FS 70 is heavier and has higher vibration figures on paper, but comes with a full harness and blade plus line head. Has anyone used either or both? Any other suggestions? Thanks
  11. I was in a local garden machinery specialist today, having gone there specifically to compare husqvarna V stihl and they said they had stopped stocking Husqvarna as they had been taken over by Flymo and everything was "plastic" They are still listed on the Husky site as stockists though. Any opinions, have they gone downhill?
  12. I was all setb to get a 4 stroke Honda brush cutter, for ease of starting, no fuel mixing and low vibration. However all the council workers seem to run stihl for motorway verges etc. I stopped to speak to one of them and asked why they used stihl and they said the council fit a gadget to measure vibration and they only have low vibration levels. Has anyone used the 4 stroke Honda brush cutters ? They weigh more than the stihl and seem cheaper. I am looking at budget £350-400. Any other suggestions Do you run your brush cutters on aspen too?
  13. It seems very expensive, but is it worth it?
  14. Is there a stihl that is closer to 435 than the 211? On paper they seem to be competitors!


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