cornish wood burner

Just had a quick look a prices and might be a bit more than that. Thought I saw one for £54 but ones I have just seen are close to £90.

Hope you have a look at the fighting drag ones Jon. I love mine, best reel ever for playing carp. If might not be big but for sub 30 s its great.

£20 to £25 perhaps but even if I had to buy new for £50 ish a fighting drag is well worth the extra IMO

Hi Shavey Have you stayed with the 25/1. Personally I have not had nerve enough to to stray too far from this as most of my cuts have been full bar length(20 inch) Mine has been faultless too BTW.

You really need commercial tunnels and polythene. Thicker tube and uv inhibiter in the poly. Working in nursery maintenance I have contacts that supply good quality if anyone needs poly or hoops.

Good morning Jon Have a look at the shimano fighting drag reels. I have a couple and they are great little reels. Mine must be over 20 years old and never had a problem with them. Writing a bit worn but it looks like s or 5 GT 3000X Basicly they have a lever that is a quick drag realease. You can have your drag set fairly tight and quickly release line if the fish make a run. I keep the levers off to take the place of a baitrunner system. Much prefer them to baitrunners, they certainly fit in with light tackle

Husky small mount if it is the same as mine which it almost certainly is.

At the cheaper end, value for money Shakespeare takes a bit of beating. I have one of their match rods and once caught a 15 lb carp on it with no problems. Loads of rods out there to suit your budget. Multi tip are normally good value for what you get. You could probably get a half decent rod and reel for £100. My favourite rods are Leeda specialist 11/4 with cork handles. Quiver or float tips but a bit light for some carp lakes.

I would use a rod with a bit more flex but most use heavier. Lakes I normally fish in have up to low 30s in them and I prefer my 1 3/4 lb rods. More fun with lighter tackle IMO and more give in the rod when the carp shakes its head, also most of the fish would be sub 20 anyway. Big advantage with a heavier rod as you no doubt know is you can cast a heavier ledger/feeder further and steer the carp away from the snags so depends on the lake as well as the fish. 3lb would be fine. Those big carp will take a bit of catching so plenty of relaxing time there jon. My favourite is free lining with bread on the surface with light tackle.. A small quiet lake on a cool summers evening and a loaf of crusty bread takes some beating.

Hi Jon carp fishing is a nice way to relax but you can spend a little or a lot. Basics would be a rod around 2 lb test curve, reel, 8lb line and some braided for hook lengths which works well. 3 ft landing net, rod rest, chair, umbrella to keep your head and the beer cool. Start with one rod and if you like it then buy a second, bite alarms if you get serious. Your local shop is a good place to start unless you can get s/hand as you will get advice as well. Your gear will depend on where you fish, I normally fish lighter than most with rods 11/4 or 2lb and line from 6 to 15 if big carp with snags that you need to steer them away from. Get a book and read up on it first. You should get started for a couple of hundred if you go for cheap gear to start. It would not be wasted as if you get serious it will be either spare or you can have it set up to plumb the depth.

Stubby don't tell anyone but I dont think TCD is a fan I wanted a split shaft machine multitool for use in my field/wood after work on the way home by car. I looked at a Km 130 but the bits I wanted came to over £1100. Being carefull lets say I ended up with a timber tech( probably the same machine as the timber pro) which has a lot more power for 1/7 the price of the stihl. It will obviously not last as long but it outperforms my 40 cc straight shaft stihl strimming with 4 mm precut square line. Vibration is a bit higher than the Stihl and the carb mounting bolts came loose so watch that, also I did knock off and lose the chain oil cap so not 100% reliable. Chainsaw attachment has cut up to 5 or 6 inch oak and ash with no issues. Keep the chain sharp and its fine. It all gets a bit heavy with the 1 metre extension but worth having. For an occasional user like me it is a very usefull tool for little money.

Looks similar to mine but with a fuel primer I think. These cheap saws probably are a bit potluck and require mechanical sympathy although mine has had to endure bar length cuts from day one. If you at going to bounce a saw around then best get a s/h stihl or husky etc. That said we have had the plugs out on our 540T and 365 many times for the same amount of wood cut by my Chinese deko. The ad says the raptor has Oregon cutting gear so might be worth a go. Your money your choice, read the reviews on it then decide.

Our window dividers on our x reg are several inches behind line of sight. Heater cable clip broken , side door is a bit iffy to lock, Small electrical issue a long time ago causing it not to rev. Cannot remember exactly but I think something to do with a switch or something in the throttle area. Still drives well but then again so do the transits I have driven.

My 58 cc chinky saw has brought 15 tonnes of 40 to 50 inch diameter back to my store for me. It was advertised as 22 inch bar which is why I bought it. Actually 20 inch which was a disapointment but it has bags of torque quite low down and did the job. It was either a saw for £69 or a bigger bar and chain for a one off did not make sense. I was also interested to see what they were like. That's why I bought it. The saw comes with a rubbish chain followed closely by a poor bar but it did the job, just needed adjusting almost every tank of fuel. Engine is still fine and it starts as well as my husky or stihl. Probably warrants a good bar and chain. Chain tensioner is a bit primitive, just a slotted bolt but two bar clamping nuts so that's OK. To sum up you get what you pay for but for a small amount of wood then its worth a chance IMO.

We use some from the biomass store in the MD's garden. Looks a bit sterile though. We also shred leylandii and other green waste and imo looks better and makes a better mulch.

Good evening NFG and thanks. As they say never too old to learn.

As logrod's Joe public with no certificate why would I want one?

Never heard of using eels before. When we drilled our second borehole it produced much more than now. I thought the water table had dropped and we gave it up. Looking down it the other day I could see the water surface so it might have blocked. Not sure I would do it but if your theory is right then eels might improve the flow, a bit harsh on them though. Years ago we used to get problems with eels swimming into a spring fed pipe and blocking it. The pipe was about 1/2 mile long and after a few days they would appear at the other end much thinner and dead of course.. I have installed an underground rainwater recycling catchment tank as part of a ''green'' planning requirement. You probably know this but they come in a variety of sizes with a gauze filter on the 110mm inlet. Just drop in a sump pump with its own float switch any you are away. Cost is the only downside but all you see is a green manhole cover about 600mm.

To avoid staining might be best to use brass or stainless fixings. I screwed my floor down with stainless screws as cross head screws are easy to put in with a cordless drill. You will need to drill a clearance hole and ideally countersink as very little give in oak.

Luck of the draw Mick. The farm I grew up on had a well/spring running to the surface that produced crystal clear sweet tasting water at more than 1500 lph, more in the winter. A few miles away the nursery I work for has two boreholes both 100 M deep and 150M appart. One produces 4000 lph the other 100 lph, both so dirty that we have to strip and clean the pump every year. Water level comes up to around 5M below the surface in the second one but once its pumped out it refills at 100 lph To get a usable pressure from your rain water tanks you probably need to spend several hundred pounds just on a pump and as you say that buys a lot of water.

Any cattle or sheep driven along your road? That might make your choice for you. My favourite from a looks point of view would be post and rail as per THS but you have a risk of having a garden full of sheep until your hawthorn is tall enough to keep them out. Johno's suggestion will be stock proof but might be over kill for a front fence unless there is a lot of stock movement. Your idea of wire would be easy to erect but you might need an extra wire or two as it needs to be readily seen. I think I would have chat with your local farmer ask his advice and find out if livestock travel up and down the road. If nothing else it would be a good way of introducing yourself. Sounds like a nice setup you have there BTW.

Hi Sally Two points about this. Firstly The more I see of that hole the less it looks like it was made by a drill. Secondly that is a very small piece of soil in the corner of your drive/ garden. With the wall and fence next to it chances are that there is building waste etc under it which would only affect the deeper rooted things such as your tree and lavender. The tree experts might also have somethig to say about the area available for roots. Smaller plants and weeds would grow on top but probably not if some noxious chemical had been applied. I have had trees/ shrubs and there replacements die after building work which I can only put down to building residues. As an aside ivy is pretty much hated by gardeners and arborists so I would have thought he was trying to do you a favour. I'm afraid if I was a member of the jury I would find your neighbour innocent. Sorry if that is not the answer you were hoping for, but that is my opinion.

Careful Sally, it sounds like you are not on the best of terms with your neighbour already. Asking him outright what he poisoned your tree with, could start a war. Maybe he did administer something but as I said before doesn't look like a drill hole to me. Alternatively could your tree just have been in decline and the hole is a symptom of that. Something in the ground that trees and shrubs dont like perhaps. If that is the case and your neighbour is innocent then he will feel very aggrieved with you. You have to live with the resulting fallout so consider your response carefully.

Doesn't look the right shape for a drill hole to me. Even if it was drilled at an angle it would then be elliptical but this looks like it has almost a pointed top.

Didn't quite catch it but did she say get on with it you have shelves to put up