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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. Personally I would never consider a gravel drive. Obviously a cheaper option but with looks to match IMO High maintenance to keep it rut and weed free, and if you are in the tree business would you not be bringing mud in on your tyres and truck? Worst thing there is for a gravel drive. As an alternative you could do it with tarmac or brick paviors. It sounds like you can do the base so for a bit more money either you or someone else could put something decent on top. You won't lose as it will put money on your house and also you will have the benefit of a proper drive with less maintenance.
  2. Use something like mypex to separate gravel from earth or whatever is underneath. Quick and easy and lasts.
  3. That seems to be the case around here. 1 refusal, 10 litre max, another didn't care. Tesco man came and checked what we were filling and said fine go ahead. 2 jerry cans and a few plastic. I used to think 5 Ltr plastic 10 Ltr steel but all have different views so it seems. As Jon says asda unmanned has to be the best.
  4. Gap of 0.5 mm I believe
  5. M Colbear Devon IH574 £2200 12 GPM good hydraulic pressure on those IHs as far as I remember.
  6. Would think. I have burnt 100% spruce but its bit of a pain. My spruce is from big diameter trees so most of it has no bark which makes it worse. I have stacked it 50:50 with slab wood which is mainly softwood with a lot of bark so I expect it to be easier to keep the fire in.
  7. It doesn't leave a good ash bed so it requires a slightly different approach to the fire. If the fire dies down there is a real danger of it going out, as its done in my Rayburn a couple of times. Mix with something else unless your customers are aware of the problem. Luckily mine was free otherwise I would have been grieved to have paid money for it.
  8. If you are considering chipping it for biomass it needs to be dried. I would not buy the chip unless it had been left until all the resin dries. 3 years depending on diameter? The resin on the chip will stick it to the sensors and stop the boiler feed. You might sell to someone unfamiliar with biomass chip problems but those who know will not touch it until the wood is dry and the resin is solid.
  9. 1.4 kw is nowhere enough power for what I want but I want a split shaft to carry in my car boot. Any other options from the quality brands.
  10. Don't worry I read that before posting. You bit fairly quick though. Atilla Stubby is right unfortunately. If you think you might want bigger then do it now.
  11. Don't let stubby talk you into getting a 365. What size timber will you cut?
  12. Welcome Atilla If you were thinking 435 or 211 presumably you were thinking around a 14inch bar. If you don't need bigger then get a saw to suit. If not cutting for a living no point in going oversize IMO, some will disagree though. Get a saw that suits what you have to cut. Smaller lighter saws are pleasant to handle and your cutting becomes a hobby rather than a chore. Longevity and reliability must be higher on your list than speed. Lots of good comment on here about makita/Dolmar. Handle as many contenders as you can and pick which you like the feel (and cost )of.
  13. Only doing 1 ton/day/man.sounds like they didn't put much effort into it. However the weather must have a big influence on demand and consequently price. Perhaps a drop in demand and price made it unattractive for them. The reverse could happen if we get a few cold winters. At work we can easily use 30% more in a cold winter. Glasshouse insulation is obviously poorer than buildings but a cold winter must drive private demand up and also prolong heating use. If log merchants stock is exhausted then that will open the door for the w/e/w warriors again. Therefore guys it might be advisable to carry extra stock to keep out the competition.
  14. And slope. What does relatively steep mean. Wheels or tracks needed. Travel across? Everyone is suggesting solutions blind.
  15. That's a very short life even for visqueen. It always seemed to be a bit prone to splitting on the seam but may be a combination of composition and as as you think mainly rerolling. Providing the seam area is not flapping in the wind it should last at least 5 years without any problems. They used to offer a percentage depending on how long its been on and how long they say its life is. Suggest you think its only right that they come and help fit a new sheet.
  16. I've heard that the body has to come off to change the turbos on a disco, is that right?
  17. Old internationals have good flow and pressure 574 or one of that series if you could still find one.
  18. Sounds like they may be rolling too tight or doing something wrong then. Depending on a lot of things we might be taking down 3x 40 metres and 2 x 22 metres of straight sided multispan. If it goes ahead in the next few years I will let you know.
  19. I think you have done very well if only two of you. It sound like a straight sided higher tunnel would suit you but of course higher means more wind and harder to reach everything. We often roll in temporary battens to hold against the wind. We stop a roll short and leave the nail head out a little. If I understand correctly what you've done, it will put more longitudinal strain on the end hoop so I hope your ridge bar is fixed well to it. Also if you haven't braces from half way up the hoop to the ground inside it might pay to fit some. Should give you a nice big door though. It would be interesting whether your supplier has a jumbo roll or is supplied with small rolls if you can find out. Might even be the cause of your splitting problem if rolls are old
  20. What sort of slope? As a measure could a 2 wheel drive tractor drive up and down. Could it travel across the slope. Would 4 WD be needed for up and down or steeper so tracks. Also have you a rough count of stump numbers.
  21. I would but didn't see the forecast, tunnel not prepared, have to take the dog to the vet, car has a puncture and its Saturday and my guys will have run and hidden and I wont be able to contact them. That's my story anyway. Our recovering approach is very different to yours Pull poly over, align with ridge bar, nail one 2.4m batten one end, go to the other, pull like demons and batten that end. Work evenly up each side starting one batten in from the end, finally finish sides and ends to complete corners.
  22. Might be a bit much for a dozer but a 25 ton swinger would have those out no problem. As the farmer is keen on grinding, perhaps you might get a good estimate of how long a big stump grinder would take on here. Only seen a small one in action and that was like watching paint dry.
  23. I considered Dozer and ripper but hesitated with the thought that we have no info on stump size. However assuming the stumps were not massive then I would agree with pycoed. Many many years ago before 360s 'were readily available we had about10 acres of steep ground cleared. Dozer to rip the stumps out, crawler to plough and cultivate up and down the slope which in parts was too steep to drive a tractor across without putting the wheels out. Fairly sure the stumps went on a big bonfire. South facing it provided usefull grazing.
  24. You have a bonfire and barbeque . Holes would be filled in/leveled by the machine that dug the stumps. Depends whether the farmer wants to cultivate the ground. Any stump remains will wreck his gear.

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