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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. You need into be a bit careful doing that. I would do as Coximus says and sprinkle around the edges. If you smother the flames, wood gas will still be driven off by the heat and could fill your stove with an explosive mixture. When a flame appears at the top of the fire, the gasses ignite/ explode. Large wood chip boilers have variable feed, variable powered draught, several temperature and exhaust gas values fed into a PLC but under the right conditions the gasses can still explode.
  2. I'm not suggesting you do not use your meter just check its calibration. Most meters I've come across are not accurate. We have burnt a lot of larch at 25% and it burns well.
  3. Do you know for a fact that its 16-18% or is that just what your meter is telling you?
  4. Hi Stereo, sounds like its going OK. Well done. I don't know your house or even if you would consider it, but how about B&B for a while. If you have a really nice room contact Wolsley Lodges. They specialize in high class B&B and will come and vet you I believe. Typical tarrif £100 depending where you are. Lots of people would like to stay on a small farm I expect.
  5. We use PVC pipe that is rated at 10 bar. Huge range of fittings and available in 25,32,50,63,75mm and larger.
  6. Email husqvarna and ask why. I'm sure lots of us are interested in their reasoning. Maybe haironyourchest is right but it would be good to hear that from them.
  7. As an alternative for you. Stack it untill it reaches 35%MC. Chip into walking floor lorries and sell to us in 500 tonne lots.
  8. Be very careful, no chipper I know will cope with 1.5 metre without splitting so the price drops because of that. Sawmills that can run that down/want it, are limited in Cornwall so it might be a train journey for it. Price will reflect that.
  9. Don't know about Fords but we could certainly tell the difference on our Sprinter. Losing the DMF meant we had to change down sooner to avoid it juddering. Been reliable since though.
  10. Its basic function is to smooth out engine torque delivery/speed at low rpm. More judder, noise and vibration from the drive train at low rpm without one.
  11. Looks like you have two problems. 1 Design flaws which you should have picked up if you had seen before you bought so I don't really think you have cause to rant over that. 2 Lack of or very poor PDI so if its Riko that did the PDI no wonder they are good at rectifying the problems they should have picked up pre delivery. Perhaps they will help you on the design flaws as recompence for their poor PDI. Worth a go I would have thought anyway.
  12. Do you need the extra depth of cut? If not a disc cutter will be simpler, cheaper and probably more reliable.
  13. Conventional engineering wisdom says failure rates normally follow a standard bath tub curve. New machines have failures due to build quality problems etc, then a low rate followed by a rise due to wearing out. Best to run along the bottom of the bath.
  14. Thank Alycidon I set out to buy a Morso squirrel but came across an ex demo puffin which was too cheap to miss.
  15. Just bought a villager puffin( 4 kw) for a small room. No idea on quality but similar size to your squirrel.
  16. I suspect this thread will help hydraulic splitter sales, whatever the power source. Also a good reminder for us all to keep chisels, wedges and mauls etc free from burrs and mushrooming
  17. I was thinking more of kickback being a lot more violent and less controllable with the extra weight and speed. A problem perhaps if his technique is not good. I agree though that power can have advantages especially on a tricky fell.
  18. Do you agree that with a quick pro saw in inexperienced hands any mistake could have devastating results. A smaller slower less powerful saw would be more controllable and safer for a novice operator.
  19. Good advice I would say especially sharpening. 211 on a 14" cuts well with a sharp chain.
  20. You could buy one for every day of the week, and still have change to take your good lady out for a meal with what you have saved from the price of a new FS130. Makes sense to a lot of people I would have thought. Vibe figures seem right BTW
  21. Not joking. That's the figures I read for the stihl spec. About the same it seems I will check though.
  22. With my dual speed/ force splitter my experience is 4 ton will split most logs but I sometimes need to pull the lever more to get to the 8 tonne force. This seems to be inline with other posters experience that 4 of 5 tonne is not quite enough sometimes. The time will come no doubt but Ive had my splitter for a season or so and with 8 tonne available I have not yet needed to resort to wedges or saw.
  23. I have split my own firewood for many years and found either will split the straight grained stuff. Problem comes with knots and forks as you are finding. My electric splitter will split logs I used to get the wedges out for. More money than you are looking at but dual speed 4 or 8 tonne. I'm very pleased I bought it. Why not split the easy logs by maul or axe and buy a splitter for the knots and forks that defeat you.
  24. Rotavating to finish off the scrub clearance. All sorts of cultivating of small areas.
  25. What track do you run on that you need so high a gear. Lower gear = better acceleration surely?

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