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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. Those prices are for roundwood. Slab is a lot more but its cheaper to start with so just about worth doing. Used to cost us about £20/ tonne when we started first if I remember correctly. Bigger, more efficient chippers and competition have reduced costs. Very few chippers around when we installed our first boiler. MF 1200 and chipper must have looked the business. One session we had an articulated case as a drive unit. Good while it lasted but didn't stand the work apparently I agree sharpening is a very significant cost. Especially if there are some stones grabbed up by the lorries as we have found to our cost. Slivers and bridging seem to be the universal joys of biomass. Our chip quality is where it should be but still the occasional problem inspite of air blasts over the photocells.
  2. Scotland is sometimes chilly so I've heard
  3. That crossed my mind too . However only dozen houses so 20 tonnes / house which prob about right. Small boiler to provide summer heat and others to come online as demand increases. Possibly one as backup/ drying. Better not to put all your eggs in one basket as plenty of reasons for chip boilers to cause problems.
  4. Can only guess what is a farming one but f that's a chipper with no screen then not good for biomass. Small boilers are fussy about chip quality. Do you know the chip spec. I would go mobile as 250 tonnes are only 2 or 3 days work with a medium sized chipper so not a big earner. Heizohack definitely with a look. You should enquire what screen sizes come with it. G30 or G 50 chip probably is most common so 30 or 50 mm screen very useful.
  5. We sometimes hire a Muzmax which will take 24 inch possibly a bit more at a push. 300 HP drives it nicely. Best chipper who knows but we are very happy with the muzmax quality. Heisohack are good. Woodsman the worst if they are still going
  6. Small amount to make any appreciable investment for. It costs us about £12 / ton to chip with 300 HP or about £10/ ton with 780 HP Those costs include a telehandler and two trailers. Small boilers I presume that will need G30 chip?
  7. It says mount down on your picture so presumably horizontal mounting. Carefull you do not exceed the max speed rating. In my youth I was shown the results of a wheel disintegrating,
  8. Looks like someone did a bit of hedge laying a long time ago
  9. "Break at the eyelet" is exactly why my bump head went in the bin. The beauty of these heads is you can use stronger line. Bump heads are fine for light grass etc but when strimming brambles, saplings and wire you are constantly rethreading/ reloading. I used to average about 10 metres along my hedge with 3 mm round line before rethreading now 100m on two pieces of 4 mm diamond edge. I would never go back to a bump head. Too much time wasted loading, and cord breaking.
  10. FS130. 4.4/3.7 (blade is higher) against your 4.1. I think you can smile anyway.
  11. If you don't mind damaging the barbed wire or fence posts then no problem with 4 mm diamond edge. Seriously though If you can keep the speed up it often survives contact with sheep net or barbed wire
  12. Lemons are yellow. Won't start when its cold. Won't start when its hot. When we do start it we need a lie down to recover. We do not use the decomp before anyone suggests that. Never start it otherwise.
  13. Our almost new 365 is still at the dealers. Get a Dolmar, Makita Stihl Echo or even a Chinese saw all better than our yellow 365.
  14. If the oil is too thick surely it wouldn't be leaking badly. Thinner oil will leak worse I would think.
  15. Evening turtle. If there is oil in the feed slot but running out the bottom of the saw then it sounds like you have a leak between bar and slot. Might be worth giving the slot a close look under a magnifying glass. A crack or low spot might allow the oil out rather than into the bar. Check where the bar sits as well, straight edge across the mating surfaces of bar and saw.
  16. As it should be. Some dealers are obviously more thorough than others. As we know Husky dealers are not tied to face to face but some assemble run and tune but others supply still boxed which suggests to me its not been run. Am I correct and if so is it worth a bit extra for them to inspect and run.
  17. Others might disagree but I always charge as near to the battery as possible to minimize any poor connection problems, stray current paths and voltage spikes. I always turn the charger off at the mains (as we all should) before disconnecting. A good habit to get into as no choice if you are charging on the bench. Jump starting I use a different point for the reason openspaceman has explained. Spark when disconnecting and a better connection are two reasons for the negative jump lead on the block or similar. High current can still be flowing when both engines are running. I suspect even with the welder supply off a current path exists through the windings. I too had a welder/charger and it certainly would make the batteries bubble. Effective though especially with those 4 cylinders. Across the water is the best place for them.
  18. Pre delivery inspection but not well known in the chainsaw world?
  19. Just been reading about turtlewoods MS391 not oiling. That has reminded me about one of my pet hates which is the lack of PDI with saws etc. Surely if Stihl insist on a face to face handover for safety reasons they should PDI and run it to make sure everything works. Bought a Stihl a couple of years ago and it was almost here's the box off you go. Who knows if the chain brake or stop switch worked. All was fine but that's not the point. Bought a Husky last year and it came with bar attached, had a PDI, run and dealer tuned. Long chat even including the virtues of different oils. Absolutely no trouble and worth the extra imo for not having the agro we had with boxed huskys recently. PDI obviously costs but do you guys think its worth the extra.
  20. Battery charger on the battery terminals should be fine. Negative jump lead on starter/ engine may be an advantage. If you had a dead flat battery then you only put in 10 ah so probably only 10% charged assuming 100ah capacity. Charging current would depend on your charger and battery being heathy. Alternators put in more than most chargers. He was right about the bump though, eng management etc.
  21. 8'x4' 24 g galv steel weighs 37lb a sheet if you are interested. Not sure how big your trailer is but total probably less than an extra person.
  22. You need to decide how tidy you want it, how much you you want to spend and how much of a weight penalty you can except. My suggestion is thin galvanised tin riveted to existing frame if you can except the extra weight. Strong and not so heavy as you might think if thin gauge. I have seen plastic coated which looks good but more money than plain galvanised I expect.
  23. Some hope there IME. Charging is what BT are good at. Charged me for not finding a fault causing a crackily line. Would have charged again except when they phoned to say the line was fine they found it difficult to hear because of the crackles. One engineer thought it might be water ingress somewhere, no idea how that could happen though.
  24. Not arb related but your 3.5 t swing and dumper on a plant trailer pulled by your NH might get you a bit of work if you can work the levers OK.
  25. Never had one apart but it just changes over the ratchet direction like the lever. Little raised ridge that slides 90 deg to the spanner stem. Just a bit harder to use than a lever, especially with oil on your hands or gloves.

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