cornish wood burner
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Everything posted by cornish wood burner
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If hedges are left to grow then the farmer loses a wide strip of growing area around his field. 1000M perimeter around a field 5 M wide would cost around £10K to purchase that area so £10K wasted
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Base is1800x1070. 3 off 1900 high sides open at front 6mm x 200 square reinforcing mesh sides Frame is 50x3 angle Fork lift box underneath 120x 80 All measurements in mm We have 10 off that we don't use. Probably looking for £40 each. Call 07971794675 tomorrow to discuss if interested
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I rebuilt one, skimmed the block, head and pistons then a few years later the crank cracked. Engine was good for me as it payed my mortgage for a month or so. Still going now though. Hydro shift was trouble free. Just shows they all vary
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If those cages I described earlier are of interest they could be yours at a very reasonable price. Not sure how many are left but they must be at least twice the volume of ibcs from memory.
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Just a thought but were the bearings tight on their mounting shafts and in their housings.
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We had a load here in the way made from 50x50x6 angle with 200x200x6 reinforcing mesh, 2 metres high. Big box section underneath for the forks. Probably would be fairly easy to make considering transport costs.
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We have been using biomass fueled heating for about 10 years now and as Duffryn says along with most we are locked into wood fuel. We buy a few thousand tonnes of slab and roundwood each year and season for around two years so we are committed to maintain this in advance of use. The first boiler was pre RHi and payed for itself in just over 3 years. The second was eligible for a stupidly high amount of RHI so costs next to nothing to run. Over this period demand has obviously pushed prices up a little but be biggest jumps for us seemed to have coincided with power stations coming on line. When we started slabwood was at giveaway prices but when Slough started there was a big jump, in fact there was some breaking of agreements as higher prices were being offered. Similar situation with round wood though not quite so marked. Inflation plus a bit although lower oil prices must have limited its rise recently.
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How do you clean your circular saw blades ?
cornish wood burner replied to gensetsteve's topic in Firewood forum
An aerosol of resin cleaner -
Welcome from Cornwall Grizz. As Stubby says friendly lot on here and all like to help. A bit like a big family I guess.
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Workshop wood burner considerations...
cornish wood burner replied to blades's topic in General chat
That looks like it would warm your space nicely. I was at a recycling yard yesterday and they had a few wood burners there, probably not the most efficient but you might pick up one at a very reasonable price at your local yard that would do for your workshop. I thought it might be worth sharing that, it may not be of interest but no harm done either way. -
That looks bad. If your boiler frame is too cold then you will get condensate and tar around the inside as you have. It looks to me that your boiler needs to run hotter with probably more secondary air. Can you tell us your return water temperature?
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I think you might be surprised at the cost of a one off. I would get it made in a high tensile steel such as EN16T. Your machine shop should advise you if you tell them what its for. Needs to be right as you don't want any fatigue failures at the base of the male thread. I'm sure you realise it will put a lot more load on things so you need to go carefully.
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Can you just use two 3 inch extensions
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You would still get the same heat output just the water would be at a higher temperature going back into the boiler. Some water from the flow side would just go around again and the boiler would only need to heat it from 70 to 80 rather than 60 to 80. You would need slightly more flow or a separate pump on the shunt line if you needed to keep the output at 80. Thats the standard BEPV back end protection valve system on our larger biomass boilers. On your system if the boiler output varies as the charge burns then doesn't the water temperature change with it? A BEPV would do a similar thing to your 70 deg start but continue to work all through the burn. We did have a problem with a low return temperature once and found the tubes full of rust and soot. Not quite tar but going that way.
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Do you cover your cordwood stacks /how high do you stack.
cornish wood burner replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
Yes we stack in long lines. Say the cord is 12 ft then our stacks are 12 ft wide and 200 ft long. Miss 6 ft then start another line. -
Controlling return temp by demand must be a bit hit or miss I would have thought. Could you not have a shunt system with a thermostat on the boiler return controlling a three port valve to keep the return higher. As you say if the boiler temperature is low then it will give problems.
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Anything up to 4 times normal running current I'm afraid. If you run too small a genni then your splitter will pull the voltage down and draw more current than it should. Might end up damaging both machines. As Steve suggests 3 or 4 kVA minimum.
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It sounds to me that you have a problem with your set up somewhere. Different woods require different setups and its normally just a question of getting it right for what you are burning. Another avenue to investigate is your boiler return temperature. If it is too low then that may be giving you problems. How do you control your boiler return and what temperature does it normally run at? I don't have the luxury of kiln dried timber so I like to keep my boiler returns above 65 or even 70 deg C to avoid condensation. If your system flow rate can take the heat away then those sort of temperatures might be an advantage for you. Does your boiler manufacturer specify a temperature?
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Do you cover your cordwood stacks /how high do you stack.
cornish wood burner replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
I also notice a difference up through our stacks. The bottom metre is wettest due to lowest air flow, the next 3 metres are drier and the top metre is driest in summer, but in winter after a lot of rain it becomes almost as wet as the bottom. We have found a gap of 6 ft or so works well for us, as it gives good air flow without taking too much space. I cover the top of my own logs, but at work we have many thousands of tonnes stored in 5 metre high stacks, so top covers would be difficult and dangerous to install at that height. If you can cover the top it is obvious best but airflow is also a very important factor. We position the lines at approximately 45 deg to the prevailing wind so it is not only blowing through the stacks but also up the alleys. -
Sounds like old hand's might have been
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Do you cover your cordwood stacks /how high do you stack.
cornish wood burner replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
Higher the better I would say. More air flow through so should lose moisture quicker. We stack about 5 metres high. We have too much to cover but if you can it will help -
I have the E150 version 2.9 KW and its far superior to the works Karcher of a similar size. The reel and the on board storage are very usefull. I have used it for many full days with no problems so far. May be P150 ?
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Hi bvf. Always best to wear a mask if there is a risk of mould spores. Even a disposable valved one with the right spec will be a big advantage in the open. The CO is only a risk in confined spaces, spores will be more of a risk when disturbed, and worse when confined such as in the back of a van so a better mask then perhaps? Good to see the info in this thread being read and hopefully acted on. Continue your study if you wish but I would suggest no more sniffing.
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Might be of use if you have no mains power and didn't want to run your genni by night. Alternatively you could feed it from PV panels or windpower then use it to cover the dips in your supply. I expect it would make a big difference to your electricity bill. Anyone any ideas on price?
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Not sure if its restricted to dry wood but certainly the danger from pellet silos is well known. I think any enclosed area containing wood can be a danger. This is not really my field, but apparently oxidation of the fatty acids in the wood is believed to be the cause, so presumably fresh wood or pellets could produce CO until the reaction is complete.The reaction increases with temperature so a warmer load of chip will be producing more CO. Symptoms include headache, dizziness, nausea or shortage of breath, some of which have been described on this thread. Never logged the CO from our chip pile but I think it might be an interesting exercise.
