cornish wood burner
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Everything posted by cornish wood burner
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Ah that would explain it. Didn't think it was hickory
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So the second one I have untouched in a box should be worth a bit then.
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Certainly is in my wood shed. Saws. Computers. Axes. No end of your talent sir
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I ran the sander over this little axe and ner& co Sheffield came up. Turner? Presumably 3 means 3 lbs. it has a very thin blade. Anyone any idea of age and use.
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That looks very very slow for a 30" chipper.
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Why are these caps off? Kubota engine
cornish wood burner replied to Suffolk-Matt's topic in General chat
I would never reuse a core plug unless it was a "get you home" measure. If they popped out in use it would be a rapid coolant loss and probably cook the engine very shortly after. -
As Stubby says probably running lean on that cylinder. Inlet rather than exhaust I would think. Check inlet manifold gasket and bolts
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We've had a 110hp earlier one for many years. Couple of brake issues but mainly due to standing for long periods. We've put over 100k on it since buying it with few problems, bit rusty now but not as bad as our Iveco chassis. All drivers prefer the sprinter to the Iveco even though the Iveco has done less and is almost 10 years newer.
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Log boiler with an automatic feed - know of any?
cornish wood burner replied to ccharlie's topic in General chat
I've seen a log feed by a conveyor system. It was feeding recycled wood, sawdust and logs. Much larger boiler than you have in mind though. Uniconfort at certainly wood if I remember correctly. Biggest problem would be cost and complexity. Conveyor systems and walking floors are probably the most reliable of the feed systems used on the bigger boilers but you wouldn't like the cost. -
375nm =276 ft lbs 300nm =221 ft lbs so 55 ft lbs more Fiat 500 twin air is limited to 100 nm in eco mode more in normal, if you want a small car comparison Hope that helps
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Presumably you have some sort of solenoid in the main circuit to run the pump. Put a live feed to the small terminal on this to prove whether it's the control or power circuit. Bypass things to prove them and work through the circuits.
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An alternator takes around 2 hp depending on its output. Normally has a small diameter pulley so it runs fast at low engine rpm. The result of this is it can slip when accelerating or heavy load if the belt it not tight enough. Needs to be tighter than you would think especially if it's a multi v and had some wear. Check it before you rip anything apart or spend money.
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First step is to check the alternator drive belt is tight
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Sorry yes 216. Biggest problem is the starting current which will be a few times normal running so you're right to be concerned. Low voltage is not good for motors anyway as I guess you probably know. The double wedge works well as it splits from whichever end is weakest. It does save reading the wood and turning the log around for a single wedge (or maul). Also occasionally a log might have a hidden burr or knot which makes it split from the unexpected end. I have read different specs of the manual 10T splitter suggesting 5 or 8 tonnes force. My Fm16 is 8 tonnes so the force might be worth verifying. Those ads seem to show very easy splitting wood which made me wonder. A step up from a maul if you have a lot of knots or big diameters though.
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It might have been sidelights left on or something. Presumably the freelander was used a week or two before the battery went flat, so if it happens again I would get your charging system checked.
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2012 highly unlikely to have failed that quick. Batteries normally last around 8 to 12 years now. Most probable cause is something draining it. Light left on etc. As said charge it overnight. When did you use the freelancer last? Lots of small drains now immobiliser etc so battery's only last a few weeks before they don't have enough charge to start the engine
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Slight derail this but if your voltage goes below 116 then it might be worth talking to your electricity provider. Should be 230 +10% -6% Talk of -10% but not yet I believe.
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Evolution saws run slower in order not to overheat when cutting steel. The teeth are shaped so they take a smaller bite. Better cut than our hitachi but you have to give them time. Never tried a different blade but with the lower rpm even a better blade will still need more time. There are better saws as said above but evolution make reasonable quality and are probably the best of the cheaper machines. Customer service is good too if you have a problem.
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How long does 2wd drive car tyres last thanks 👍👍👍
cornish wood burner replied to mendiplogs's topic in The Lounge
In my experience driving wheels last about half as long as the other end. Wife got 43000 and 21000. Depends on power and tyre type. A soft grippy tyre could last a lot less than a harder one. High powered car can easily wear tyres on the drive wheels in 4000. -
If you are really set on a manual splitter then the forest master is probably one of the better ones. My FM16 electric seems well built at about 83kg so I expect the manual one is built in the same style just slow. Alternatively you could cut the difficult pieces down further as we've suggested and consider how much chainsaw time you can buy with £170 or whatever you spend on the splitter. Why not try with the saw first and see how you get on.
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But wet basis is normally used in this industry
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Measurements on a dry basis?
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Or a liner.
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I'm a forest master fan but I could never see the logic in that manual splitter. Must be quicker and easier to run the saw down through the pieces you can't split. Alternatively as above. Unless you're thinking of selling logs a pto splitter seems ott to me.
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Goes with the word "Mrs" so I've found.
