cornish wood burner

No one has mentioned the variation of snr with frequency. Protection reduces at lower frequencies so a 30 snr rated set of muffs would provide that at high frequency but might reduce to 20 at low frequency.

It's only as strong as the joint and unless you have a very sheltered area such as logged on,s walled garden I wouldn't advise using it. Tunnel polythene has uv protection in the mix and is very strong. Probably cheaper as well. Contact joe at Smith and Jones xl polythene and get the right stuff.

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Good evening mitchel That tunnel in your link looks fairly DIY to me. How windy is your site. I suspect that one would stand much of a breeze. Hoops too small a diameter for a start. A well built tunnel should stand up to 80mph winds, but open sides might reduce that slightly. Best to have straight sides with mesh. This will give you good air flow but also more importantly give you chance to fix the sides down to prevent the wind blowing the tunnel away. Your concrete does present some problems but not insurmountable. In an ideal world how much covered are a would you like? I imagine having concrete gives you scope to use a pallet truck to stack in the tunnel unless you have a small forklift. I can recommend some suppliers if you wish. Building your own is straightforward especially if you have some help to pull the sheet over.

Polytunnels do not retain heat well so as sand spider says use the heat from the sun rather than provide additional heat that will escape quickly anyway. A poly tunnel can easily get into the 40s with a little sun. When you build them make sure you have plenty of air flow when needed. Side vents are a good idea if it's going to be a reasonable length. Apologies if you know the following but a common mistake is not to have enough bracing / strength for the end hoops. There is a big pull from the plastic down the length of the tunnel especially in high winds so brace to the ridge bar, crop bars if you have them, and two diagonals down the length to the ground. Presumably you are not going to dig up the concrete to set in the ground hoops so you will need to make some bolt down plates with about a 300 mm tube upstanding to take the hoops. We tex screw hoops to ground tubes but make sure you use good quality if you do that.

If you are comparing the two tractors be warned the 35 hydraulic piston pump should have more pressure than the dexta, 3000 against 2400 or poss 2500 psi The dexta should have more flow though but it has a gear pump if memory serves, and this type of pump normally wears and loses pressure quicker in my experience. PTO pump would be best but more expensive.

Welcome to the forum If you go for one powered by the tractor hydraulics don't go too big otherwise it will be slow 4.4 gpm remember. I would make sure your hydraulics are right first otherwise you may need to go for a pto model. Pto might even be cheaper if you have a lot of work to do on the tractor hydraulics.

If the batteries were 06 then soon due for a change anyway. Capacity reduces with age so using them without the engine running would quickly drain them. If they were new or good condition you would probably get away with doing that. Not a good idea though, normal car or truck lead acid batteries do not react well to being almost fully discharged. Traction/ leisure batteries are more suited to a deep cycle.

If you have no takers for firewood or milling and you do decide to chip it, Southern Wood Energy can handle that size. Fair way to come for 200 tonnes but they might be able to work it in with another job to ease the transport cost. Find your customer and agree a spec first of course. Ideally find someone with a big boiler and store that can take the whole lot in one hit.

Mine needs a set of pipes,duck bill etc so that could be it. Xl2 has an oil pump but might slightly pressurize the tank as well. A few of my bits are still in a box but it's not bad condition considering, apart from the perishables that is. I picked up my mate's super 2 which still seems compact but a lot heavier. Bought from the same dealer many years ago and he still uses it to cut his firewood.

I have a dual trigger XL2 auto which I believe is smaller than the super 2? Was running a few years ago but has a carb problem now. I grew up with it and a great saw in confined spaces. On my to do list to get running again.

Could you find someone with a bigger processor. It seems a shame to chip it but if it's too big for commercial firewood processing then depending on moisture content you could sell it for biomass. Either sell in the round for stacking to dry or chip it to a customers spec and sell that way. We sometimes get softwood that size and shape for chipping as its not so popular. A good morning's work for a big chipper.

Forget the forge. Weld it with as good a rod that you can get your hands on. Personally I would use 299 dissimilar metal rods but watch your eyes as the flux flies as the weld cools. Do it in stages to keep the blade temperature down. Be advised its highly unlikely to last as long as a new blade.

I used to repair high tensile silage block cutter blades for a customer many years ago. I used dissimilar metal rods which gave a good success rate. However as treequip says you will lose the local hardness and temper so it never will be as good as new. If you do attempt the repair try to keep the blade temperature as low as possible to reduce the damage.

If you really want to run a compressor off your 780w generator buy the smallest compressor you can. Then change the motor for one about 250w or less. Fit a smaller motor pulley to compensate for the reduced power. Ratio of pulley diameter should be same as ratio of motor powers. Use the switchgear and air bleed down already on your compressor to drive the new motor. It will be slow and you will be buying two motors. As others have said best to buy a bigger generator or a petrol powered compressor.

I've bought several loads from Stobarts and its been a lot more than that. No wonder they were open to a bit of haggling.

Sorry should have been 4 kWh /kg

We burn a few thousand tonnes per year but building size wouldn't be of use to you I suspect. As gdh says 1 dry tonne (which will be over a cubic metre of timber ) produces almost 4 cube of chip. A cubic metre of solid timber will produce 2 to 3 cube of chip for us. Seasoned wood that is 20% will produce approx 4 kWh assuming you have an efficient boiler. Ours is 92% We dry in the round then chip so just sun and wind to dry it. We also chip slab wood which dries quickly to sub 20%

I know sail material is very expensive but what do they do with the old sails when they are past it? I've been meaning to call in at a chandlers to ask this but not been close lately. As Daveindales said the so called heavy duty poly tarpaulins are not a patch on the traditional style waxed canvas tarps.

Thanks. that sounds hopeful. I was thinking that we have a lot of local tree guys around and was going to contact them if its a go.

Does anyone have any definite info on whether it is permissible to burn arb waste chip in a boiler claiming RHI. Ideally we could claim RHI on the drying as well?

My Tomfool went in the bin( should have done it earlier). My experience is Garmin lasts longer than Tomtom although Tomtom might be very slightly better navigation when/ if it works.

Sensor sounds a good place to start where ever it is. Might be worth checking the electrical connections before you dive in too deep. Electrical contact cleaner is good to remove any oxide on the connections. Better than WD40 etc.

Almost certainly the hp requirement is at a certain rpm. 430 in this case.

The pto hp at say 430rpm would be about 30hp because it's below the engine speed that generates max power. Gearing the pto down would enable you to run at a higher engine speed to generate the rated 40 hp

There's a few about I think. I saw one at Morval show 18 months ago. It was splitting and cross cutting round wood about 200mm diameter. It was a home made horizontal splitter with a bigger ram than normal. If you have the oil flow to drive a bigger ram at a sensible speed then worth making provision for cross cutting as well as splitting.