cornish wood burner
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Everything posted by cornish wood burner
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This is good advice. Break down the circuits into pieces and swop or remove to prove as Justme suggests. If you can beg borrow or steal a pressure gauge it might be useful to finally pinpoint the problem.
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Don't buy over the top kit. Simple example is size of saw, if a smaller saw will do all you need then that's the one to buy. Larger saws cost more, use more fuel, and parts will be more expensive. Same applies to trucks, tractors, splitters etc.
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Maybe it's an area thing. I've had a £200 tip for doing an engineering job over a weekend to get the guy ready for Monday's work. Recently I looked at a good electric chop saw after work for a friend. Turned out just brushes so didn't take long. He offered money which I declined but next day there was a bottle of good wine on my windscreen. What goes around comes around.
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I've laid a few oak and mahogany floors in heavy traffic areas of our house. Finished with osmo polyx oil which just brushes on. Water has little effect and you can recoat if the sheen fades. The original lounge oak floor was getting a bit grubby so management mopped it. Came up clean again and still looking good. Not sure if you could do that with soft wood though. A bit dearer than carpet but it's a once only expense. I would recommend hardwood floors.
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You might need to change the filters as they get clogged with algae. No experience of it but I've heard that it doesn't keep well.
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Might get them from a motor factors, main dealer or Internet although repairing is probably not so common as it used to be. You might find a shop/ auto electrician who reconditions alternators and starter etc. If it's not the brushes they would check it out for you.
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Normally a couple of small screws on the opposite end to the drive pulley. I believe they are under the voltage regulator. Little blocks of graphite type material that should move against a spring. Might be stuck and just need moving a few times with finger pressure, if they bind against their housing clean up with fine wet and dry.
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Could be just an alternator brush sticking after the long break. Might be an easy fix.
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FOR SALE: 200 tonne of seasoned softwood west cornwall
cornish wood burner replied to CornishMan's topic in Firewood forum
Ok thanks. -
FOR SALE: 200 tonne of seasoned softwood west cornwall
cornish wood burner replied to CornishMan's topic in Firewood forum
When do you need it moved by? -
I used to reckon the top half of the stack had a 5% increase chipping in or after rain. Most of that would be in or just under the bark assuming it's not going over. Stacks were 30% MC top and 18 to 20% bottom to middle after all the rain we've had. Probably some stacks are close to 5 metres high now so contain more dry wood. That's the beauty of 100% mechanical handling. Lower stacks obviously would be worse as you have found. Roundwood seems a little better than slab but the trend is the same.
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kWhr/ kg is not much different between hard or soft so soft wood will be much cheaper. Biggest difference is the density. If your boiler is fed a certain volume of soft wood /hour running at its max output and you change to hard wood then you will be inputting more energy so exceeding rated output and probably wasting energy as a result.
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Good morning Andrew I was meaning a full moving or reciprocating grate that carries the wood forward. We considered this when we installed our big Binder but the extra cost (pre rhi)and increase in height intruding on our neighbours view steered us away from that route. As you say better to let the sun and wind dry the wood rather than reduce the efficiency. I've just chipped and even in this weather the lower part of the slab wood stacks are coming out at 18%. Top is not so good though. Even adding in the wetter round wood I am sure we have made the right decision. Depends on what's available so in a wet part of Scotland or if you are considering tree surgeon waste perhaps then it might have a place. Fire box temp is very important as we know so a step grate might be necessary in some cases. As Duffryn says it doesn't make economic sense to chip hard wood, purely from a cost/ tonne point of view.
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Probably all of the bigger boiler manufactures do a step grate system. Just had a look at a couple and are available in smaller sizes. I'm familiar with the uniconfort global but many others out there. Cost will of course be higher as there will be the complexity of the grate and drive. Nice bonus will be automatic de-ashing that normally comes with it.
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If you can use 350 kW or more then you can burn wet wood in an auto fed boiler. The fuel is introduced then dried as it approaches the fire. Step grate boilers are more expensive and generally more common in the larger systems but they are available at a cost.
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If you change from one to the other you might need to reduce the volume of hardwood being fed. More energy per volume as its more dense. If a boiler has been setup with soft then you could over fuel with hard. No difference I've noticed if it's set up for the fuel used.
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Ours is flowering now. As said best time would have been earlier. If an extension is being built you probably have no choice anyway.
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BTW His chipper is 780 hp with a splitter on board so can cope with most things.
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Southern wood energy chips for us with a lorry mounted machine. He's based in Wimborne. Might be too far for him but it could be worth the travelling it if you have a big quantity. How much have you got to chip?
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Priming Injectors on a Kubota 35hp
cornish wood burner replied to Sussex Groundie's topic in Large equipment
The sediment bowls normally have a gauze filter at the top. Easy to miss. -
Lots of good saws around but you fancy a stihl then go for it. If you can't see the use for a bigger saw then 181 with a 14 inch bar will be better on fuel than a bigger saw, chains and bars cheaper. Slower of course and wouldn't last so long as a bigger pro saw but if you're not going to earn your living with it then time is not really an issue unless you want it to be. At a push it would still cut up to 28inch dia from both sides if you are prepared to take your time. We've had about 25 leylandii up to 28 inch diameter and 50 ft high taken down by a guy with nothing more than a ms211 with a 16 inch bar. Didn't take any longer per tree than the other firm with all the pro kit. However if you think you will want to cut faster then spend your money now.
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While the head is off check the liners are not below the block surface. If they are then blowing gaskets will be the result.
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Hi Phil I totally understand your mans double handling to shake out the stones. We get the same problem with the wood that's brought to us. I think the biggest problem is when a lorry clears up the bottom of the stack. Most are carefull but we certainly have one rogue one. Anyway your chipper twin engined 500 hp, presumably that is the total of the blower and chipper. What's the split between the two? It seems to me the stress is coming in very quickly as if the engine is down on power. That prompted my comment not the handling which I understand. It is a 30 inch?
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Depending on winter temperatures I buy a couple of thousand tonnes every year from Euroforest, no hassle and a good price. Some years ago I was offered wood direct, bypassing EuroForest so you would think without their cut it would be cheaper. Several pounds more! so obviously someone was trying it on or being greedy. If it had been a sensible price I might have gone for it. That was not an isolated incident so if my experience is the same as other end users then no wonder Euroforest have a big say in prices here. Same would apply to Tilhil etc in their chosen areas. £40 must be a rip off delivered price.
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Tread carefully, did you see the blood stain still on the front corner of spuds axe.
