cornish wood burner

My first thought that's a good link Kevin and EVERYONE should read it. Any high pressure fluid system failure or accident could cause an injury resulting in amputation or worse so take care. My opinion on hoses is above all to avoid close contact when under pressure. Use protective coils etc for abrasion resistance only where necessary but do not rely on them to protect you against wayward fluid. Robust conduit or solid flexible cover must be strong to warrant its use at the expense of visual inspection. I would be tempted to do this if I was expecting to work very close to the hose though. Inspect all hoses as often as you can, even ones with shields and change if you have doubts. However few of us will change a sound hose purely on age but if its in a critical position or system then it's a probably a good plan. Probably a bit more advice than you were expecting John, also you could inspect, and change hoses regularly and one could still burst without warning, just the luck of the draw but you will have minimised the risk.

I'd be very surprised if any MEWP owners thought their arm would drop like a stone in the event of a hose burst. Worth a mention to anyone who had that worry though. However the fact remains that if working in the middle of a tree say 15 metres up, extraction could be difficult without hydraulic power. Apart from the contamination issues outlined by Mr Gray the danger from oil entering the body from a bursts or pinhole might be worth a mention. This can happen even up to a range of 3 or 4 inches so any hoses that share possible personnel space should be treated accordingly. Serious health problems can result from high pressure oil entering the body so don't run your hand over the hose to find that pinhole!!!

Hydraulic hoses have a finite life and if they are showing signs of aging they should fail or you should replace them anyway. If the machine is in the region of 8 years old then definely replace the hoses. If you work on a maximum 10 year life remember a hose might have sat on the shelf for a few years before being fitted to your machine so this time should be taken off its life. Critical hoses should be changed before this. Presumably you would consider a hose failure when you are aloft fairly inconvenient.

I've found good staff are hard to find and judging by this thread I'm not alone. With this in mind it's always best to look after the ones you want to keep.

Our inspector visits, records all equipment and sends us the results by email with relevant attachments. We can then record the attachments on our system. He obviously informs us of fails or advisories at the time. Vehicles are recorded in folders with MOTs and servicing history but most other servicing and inspections are on computer.

I think you may be missing the gear drive on the crank. I did something similar years ago and had to use the old crank rather than the better straight drive one.

£20k plus a heat exchanger for 7.5 tonne capacity in 2013. Heat input 300 kW. That is the biggest single batch machine they make. Doubles are available with 15 tonne capacity. Smaller machines with 2.5 or 5 tonnes capacity are available. They must be busy as the salesman hasn't got back to me to answer some queries I asked 10 days ago Pto, lister or electric powered.

All the info is at work but I think the one I looked at was around £23k. It was a while ago and I've not really had the time to go into it deeply yet but there is a lot of choices in size and presumably price. They also do continuous conveyor dryers but more money.

I'm currently looking at an Alvan Blanch batch dryer to dry chip and peat. It will obviously take a while to dry logs but it might be OK to finish them.

While my husky dealer turned his nose up at the red stihl I had, he didn't say he wouldn't honour the warranty if I used it. He did say green was best for the modern saws and put a litre in the package.

Very true but as a start anyone with large commercial glasshouses in your area would be worth a try. Many nurserys we have dealings with heat with wood chip and if they have a step grate boiler they would probably not even dry it.

We have large wood chip boilers and are currently looking at drying chip to burn. If this comes off then we could take several hundred tonnes a year. Other large boiler users might be going along the same road so might be worth enquiring if you know of any local to you.

Hi and welcome Townie Loop handle are easier to control if you are cutting above ground level such as sides of hedge or when using attachments such as hedge trimmer or chainsaw heads. For strimming level open areas bike handle are far better.. I've not used the modern stills but I've read some adverse comments about the 4 mix. I wasn't too impressed about the spec or price of the Stihl km series when I looked. My point is don't limit yourself to Stihl, many others out there.

Do you know the power needed to run your processor. Picking a motor if you know that is easy then.

Decide what hourly rate you are worth being employed then double it for self employed. Tools, van, premises, electricity, accountant all need paying for. You will not work 100% of your time and there will be jobs that go wrong and customers that won't pay. Good luck with it but I would put your prices up otherwise what's the point.

It's a little way away but we are thinking about changing a couple of tunnels to a glasshouse. This probably will go ahead in a couple of years time so we will have the structure for sale then. It might even be almost free if you take them down yourselves. Tunnel area will be probably be in the region of 1600 square metres, but more might be available.

Only if you tip once a week and you get strong sun in between.

Most of our tunnels have mesh sides with wind up side vents. All the ground tubes are concreted into the ground even in the middle of multi span ones. We tex screw the hoops to them then. The bottom rail is clamped or bolted to the hoop or ground tube depending on levels. Several ways of doing it but one is a short length of tube with a length of flat welded to it with two holes to take the 4x2 side rails and then weld a nut in the tube so you can wind in a bolt to clamp onto the hoop. Our tunnels are in a windy valley so that's a proven method which you can buy off the shelf. Windward side can lift from the polythene pull so for extra security tex screw again or bolt if extreme conditions. You want at least 25ltr of concrete in each hole unless you are very sheltered. Any less could lift out in strong winds

No one has mentioned the variation of snr with frequency. Protection reduces at lower frequencies so a 30 snr rated set of muffs would provide that at high frequency but might reduce to 20 at low frequency.

It's only as strong as the joint and unless you have a very sheltered area such as logged on,s walled garden I wouldn't advise using it. Tunnel polythene has uv protection in the mix and is very strong. Probably cheaper as well. Contact joe at Smith and Jones xl polythene and get the right stuff.

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Good evening mitchel That tunnel in your link looks fairly DIY to me. How windy is your site. I suspect that one would stand much of a breeze. Hoops too small a diameter for a start. A well built tunnel should stand up to 80mph winds, but open sides might reduce that slightly. Best to have straight sides with mesh. This will give you good air flow but also more importantly give you chance to fix the sides down to prevent the wind blowing the tunnel away. Your concrete does present some problems but not insurmountable. In an ideal world how much covered are a would you like? I imagine having concrete gives you scope to use a pallet truck to stack in the tunnel unless you have a small forklift. I can recommend some suppliers if you wish. Building your own is straightforward especially if you have some help to pull the sheet over.

Polytunnels do not retain heat well so as sand spider says use the heat from the sun rather than provide additional heat that will escape quickly anyway. A poly tunnel can easily get into the 40s with a little sun. When you build them make sure you have plenty of air flow when needed. Side vents are a good idea if it's going to be a reasonable length. Apologies if you know the following but a common mistake is not to have enough bracing / strength for the end hoops. There is a big pull from the plastic down the length of the tunnel especially in high winds so brace to the ridge bar, crop bars if you have them, and two diagonals down the length to the ground. Presumably you are not going to dig up the concrete to set in the ground hoops so you will need to make some bolt down plates with about a 300 mm tube upstanding to take the hoops. We tex screw hoops to ground tubes but make sure you use good quality if you do that.

If you are comparing the two tractors be warned the 35 hydraulic piston pump should have more pressure than the dexta, 3000 against 2400 or poss 2500 psi The dexta should have more flow though but it has a gear pump if memory serves, and this type of pump normally wears and loses pressure quicker in my experience. PTO pump would be best but more expensive.

Welcome to the forum If you go for one powered by the tractor hydraulics don't go too big otherwise it will be slow 4.4 gpm remember. I would make sure your hydraulics are right first otherwise you may need to go for a pto model. Pto might even be cheaper if you have a lot of work to do on the tractor hydraulics.

If the batteries were 06 then soon due for a change anyway. Capacity reduces with age so using them without the engine running would quickly drain them. If they were new or good condition you would probably get away with doing that. Not a good idea though, normal car or truck lead acid batteries do not react well to being almost fully discharged. Traction/ leisure batteries are more suited to a deep cycle.