CallumA

You want a quad with a high and low gearbox and if you are going to be towing a trailer you want a quad with a fixed back axle so the tongue weight of the trailer goes directly on to the axle and will provide more grip. If you get one with independent suspension the trailer tongue weight will go on to the chassis and make it handle like a pig.

It's a louvre out the top of the muffler. There is absolutely no restriction or baffles in the muffler. Will try to get photos tomorrow:laugh1:

Would that be brown or black bears:lol: I'll give them a ring in the morning and give it a try. At this rate I'll be sending the saw to Spud to get it ported:biggrin:

My husky dealer cost a bit mind!! 60 notes but worth it!!

Buy Makita as you can buy an awesome dab radio as well

Fitted the jungle exhaust and it pulls like a train cheers Eddie t but I may now be hooked on modifying saws. Should I try a 372 carb?? The local husky dealer has a carb off of a scrap saw that I can try! Do you think it would be worth it? Callum

I think the wife shrunk the tee shirt as its a bit small around the middle. The boy now wears it:laugh1:

I hope you sanded it down and varnished it!

This is a home made box and lasts a couple of days in the winter. Excuse the ugly bloke and gorgeous girl.

I was going to make some boxes 1.6m x 1.2m x 1m and get a sail maker (Bisset & Ross in Aberdeen) to make covers for every 3rd box (stacked 3 high). They should hold 1.6 cubic meters each and will be taken straight to the biomass shed for the boiler and cut down on the handling. Just need to make them now!!

If you want one made speak to Chapman at Migvie Smiddy they do a lot of work for sawmills and I,m sure they could make one but you may need to wait a bit!!

I burn softwood and got a big beech tree this summer for cutting it up, it's all split and in the shed so probably burn some beech next year!

The splitter uses a single open center spool valve with one pipe going to the tube end LH cylinder and the other going to a tee piece and then to the tube end RH cylinder. The tee piece has a ball valve on it and then piped to another tee and then to the rod end of cylinders. once the tube end has oil in it when you move the spool valve to the RH or LH the oil displaced out of tube end of cylinder pushes the other cylinder back. the advantage is you can adjust the stroke that the cylinder moves. I will see if I can knock up a schematic and post.:thumbup:

Brute force and ignorance:thumbup: Usually more of one than the other!!

I've a tractor mounted home made one I made about 20 years ago I had to paint it a couple of years age as the various repairs and modifications/improvements were looking a bit tatty. But saying that it,s done well. I should put a log lifter on it to save the old back. Oh and i lost a finger to it:blushing:

Cool splitter. I love home made gear as when it goes wrong only your self to blame :laugh1:

The thing I would be worried about is how much your quad will hold back!! if you get stuck you dig a few holes no big deal!! if the loaded trailer starts to push you bad things can happen. I have made a couple of trailers for the woods Pulled with a Kodiak 400 and the first one I made was a 60/40 split for the axle pivot point which put a good bit of weight on the quad to aid with traction for pulling and holding back the trailer on a slope. I had a few brown trouser moments on steep ground so I scrapped the trailer and made one with over run brakes on front axle and the quad (polaris 800) can take out a lot of timber on quite steep ground. the extra tongue weight also caused problems with the polaris as it had independent suspension on the back I bought a leaf spring arrangement to help and the set up now works very well. But I'm still ready to bail if need be!! Know the limits of the bike and trailer and don't take chances!!

Why not make it horizontal all the time then if you mount a pushing plate on the cylinder and a fixed blade you could split directly into a IWT tipper. It also helps if you could change the blade for a 4 way or 6 way depending on what your splitting as it will double or treble production!! You could make a log lifter to lift the larger rings onto splitter

What I've used on all my home made splitters is bucket cutting edges. 25,20,16 & 12 mm thick from whites material handling a few grinding discs and you have a splitter blade. The only thing I try to do is stagger the starting point of the blades! (hope that makes sence)

Hi Can anyone tell me what dia the pins are for holding on the sides on a IWT TT105. and what is the distance between the rear face and the lynch pin hole. I"m currently at work and have access to a lathe to make some. I was going to make some mesh sides when I get home. Cheers Callum

What you need is 2 large cable ties and 2 reasonably big pry bars. make loops with the cable ties and stick the pry bar through the loop and lever the 2 springs down at once. Now will come the trickey part and the need for 3 or more hands while holding the 2 extended springs insert the bracket to hold them! After job completed count fingers!!

lol:lol:

Best of luck with your up coming build. Keep us posted with progress and pics.

You wouldn't have a part number for that would you and is it a case of bolt it on and retune?? Cheers Callum

Hi Eddy you say you get better performance with a 372xp carb fitted to a 390xp. The reason I ask is I have a 390 with a 30" bar and when clogging logs in the saw horse it can bog down a bit. I don't really want to go the route of porting and exhaust mods! But I may have to!!