CallumA

M5 sounds about right

I pay 60 quid an hour for an artic timber lorry or for a wagon and drag! It usually works out cheaper when working cash!!

This is what i use to save my back when sawing up the big logs. For the small logs i get my son to give me a hand to load the sawhorse and it's amazing how quickly you can get a fair heap of logs. I quite liked Rowans idea with the use of the Krpans winch to pull the logs to a sizing jig beside the splitter. the only problem i could see with that is unless you stack the logs first and then split them once you have a stock pile. you would have your saw ticking over a lot or have a lot of starting of the saw if you split them as you cut them! hope that makes sense.

When I spoke to the Green deal assessor he told me that I could do a rough calculation on heat required to heat the house. I would need 180-200 kw/h per m2 per year for the old uninsulated part of the house and 80 kw/h per m2 per year for the new well insulated extension. Then how many people in the house for the domestic hot water. All this is calculated and they come up with the figure of what size of boiler they will give you RHI payments for. I did ask if there was a heat meter fitted to calculate the heat generated for payments and was told there was only a calculation on paper done. Also I asked if I could fit a bigger boiler than I was getting paid for he said if I was getting paid for a 35 kw boiler I could fit a 45 kw boiler if I wanted but only get paid for a 35 kw. I hope that makes sense. If you get in touch with your boiler supplier they should be able to steer you in the right direction regarding the assessment and if the installation was carried out by a MGS certified installer. Got loads of Bumff I printed off the web and also from the boiler supplier. Loads of luck! Can't wait until I'm at the stage to claim.

As far as I know the figure is 12.2p per unit this is calculated out for your house (depending on insulation) and hot water needs. This is then used for what kw boiler you will get paid for 10kw up to 45kw (max size for domestic RHI) this is then paid over 7 years. I know I've been told I will have to have my house and new extension assessed (Green deal assessment) to determine the size of boiler I will be able to claim for.

We have a Stanley multi-fuel range in the kitchen and a Hunter Herald 14 in the living room these are both plumed into a Dunsley neutraliser in the loft above the kitchen. When we did this we added another hot water tank as have 2 kids that don't know the meaning of a quick shower! The 2 fires are the only source of heating for the house. The system works well although we fact keep the glass clean on the Hunter Herald due to the cold spot caused by the back boiler. This is a small price to pay for a cosy house. We are also going to be fitting a bio-mass boiler to tie into the existing system when we have the extension finished at the end of the year (all going well)

Have a look at Cordking CS27 40 Videos - Cord King hope the link works. Serious bit of kit for large timber with an option of a trap door so the logs don't need to drop to the splitter.

Hi Rob let me know about the 30" bars. I went and ordered a 18" bar for the 266.

Are you going to get 30" light weight bars in your next order? If you are I would take 2! Cheers

Do you do a light weight 30" bar for a Husqvarna 390? And a light weight 15" bar for a Husqvarna 266?? Cheers

Buy something with a swing arm and a fixed back axle. They handle better when towing!! An old Yamaha Kodiak 400/450 with H/L box would be my choice!!

Get the 390 I've got one with a 24" bar and 30" bar for the sawhorse it pulls both no problem. Great saw

Looks good:thumbup:

Will you be taking the sides off and on?? If so you want to keep the weight down! do you want a steel frame and put timber in the frame?

You should possibly put a bit of the material you used for the uprights between the uprights at bottom! this will give you a gap under the logs being sawn and it will let you know when you've cut through the logs, and should make the sleeper last a bit longer! Hope that makes sence

I would not put them above chest height for ease of loading and i don't like to use the power saw too high in case it kicks back which would ruin your day!

I've got no idea how to check an axe!! I just use the power saw:thumbup:

Thats the good thing about air bags no trade off! if loaded stick in 20-30 psi or until it looks right and when empty lower pressure to 2-4 psi just enough to keep air bag inflated! I agree overloaded is overloaded but less chance of getting stopped if the pickup looks right:biggrin:

Surely if you can't tension the chain should you be using a power saw!! Put the saw in the shed and use an axe!

you should not need to replace your springs just fit an air bag helper between chassie and spring and you adjust the pressure to suit the load in the pickup. DriveRite Air Suspension Systems, Precision Engineered Air Suspension Products

Mine is manual which will be a bit better with fuel and also the original tires! when i put on the BF Goodrich tires for winter the average drops 2-3 MPG

there called banjo bolts, always slacken pipes at injector end.

watch out with the putting water in the hole! even if there is 360* for the water to splash out of it will nearly always splash up and hit you in the face!

Husqvarna one other thing your best putting a piece of wood between your bolsters on top of the sleeper to make an air space between the logs and the sleeper and this will let you know you've cut the logs and will stop you cutting into the sleeper so much!! Hope that makes sence

Husqvarna post some pictures once you've finished your sawhorse build.