TIMON
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Everything posted by TIMON
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Took mine apart too. I'm pretty sure it's a 5 wrap distel. I remember reading that in order to maintain its CE as a complete system you must use it in its original configuration. There are a few Teufelberger videos on YouTube that demonstrate it's uses and various applications.
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A bit more chip under the chassis than a rear tip. If you are converting to a 3way or side tip you would need to make sure the pivot points are up to the job. A decent welder/fabricator would help you out. Someone with Agricultural background preferably.
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Turtlewoods.... You obviously have far too much spare time on your hands!
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We have side tip on our mog. One piece door hinged at the top like Bob says
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Looks like you've got a good machine there. Johnny.
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As in: "I'm very sorry....BUT..
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Intolerance will no longer be tolerated on this forum.......
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You would think that.... But..,,,We've found over the years that middle income areas provide the bulk of the work. Rich areas don't necessarily mean big bucks.
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Sounds like a good deal. When it comes to flyers it's all about coverage in the right areas.
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You'll have it dancing in no time! Also it's a good idea to locate all the grease points and keep on top of the greasing.
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Manitou's are great machines, another good tip is to use the steering to side shift the forks or bucket when the machine is stationary and you are loading through a small gap. I miss driving them.
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Because we've done it before and it has revitalised previous pieces of sheesham.
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Steve...There is no real need to sand the table top and a good chance you will spoil it. Any reasonable proprietary paint stripper (nitromors or similar) will remove the old lacquer. Whatever you do don't machine sand it. Once the old lacquer is removed wash the top down with methylated spirits to neutralise the stripper. Then give the top a very light feathering down along the grain with a very fine grit sandpaper. 320 grit or similar. To try and revive the grain; a medium oak stain or similar should bring it out. Then lacquer over the stain once the desired effect is achieved.
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Pieces not prices...
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Steve. I'll see if I can get you a bottle of whatever our guys use in the restoration workshop. Or at least find out what is your best course of action. I know we've had loads of sheesham prices through.
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Just took this baby for a blast... Not as easy as it looks
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High chaparral..., showing your age now, Stubby. Real vintage stuff.
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Nice pics, Simon That looks like Coombe Abbey. Must have been a good gig.
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The only things I think I would use in my first aid (and I hope I never have to, obviously) are large plasters for silky saw cuts (so that I could continue working) and the large wound dressings and the celox granules (which didn't even come with the kit!) I think anything else would get thrown out of the way very quickly in the event of an emergency. -
Arbtalk , the one and only... Nice one Jon
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Johnny. Button on the joystick is to disengage power to the wheels so you can use the revs to power up the hydraulics. Bit like a quick clutch but you don't use it to change gears. If that makes sense.
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Yeah, I had the same email a couple of weeks ago. Also it gave the IP address.
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A wire core flip line is classed as PPE All components should have EN numbers on. Each component should have a CE number on. All items for climbing such as ropes, harnesses, connectors, and mechanical devices should be subject to thorough examination every six months. A wire core flip line falls into this category.
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The short answer is YES, ... But you need to put a soft link somewhere in the system so that it can be cut away in a rescue situation. e.g a small dyneema cut away strap girth hitched to a side D then put your caribiner into the strap.
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One of our guys using a pole saw on a holly the other day. Thought this might make for an interesting thread...
