marne

There is a limited amount of carbon on this planet, no matter if it's currently in Dino-oil, Diesel, wood or in the air. It will always return into organic matter, faster or slower. Relax, no matter what is burnt, it's always neutral.

The rear support legs are needed when loading heavy machinery. You can load a machine with aprox 500-600kg on this eduard untowed, then the front axle rises. I had to drive 2tons up the ramps, thats why I mounted the legs, otherswise too much stress for the towing hook and the trailer's rear axle. The cables rotted twice and where replaced with stainless ones for maritime usage the last time, can't remember how much.

I have an 2014 Eduard 3318 as 3t. It performed very well and has beyond 150.000km on it's invisible clock. Breaking cables and the hand pump went out, the electrical one works fine. Got the shock absorbers and rear support legs mounted. The jockey wheel has it's holder replaced with a weld on version. It's rugged and well built. Expect the empty weight to be a lie. Got 40cm sides+70cm mesh on it. Drove it to a scale and it's 980kgs empty. Without any sides or mesh as a flatbed, it was still 780kg. Anyway you won't go wrong. The mesh is really tough. It allows airflow when empty with a low towing vehicle.

Why did you sell it, any dislikes? I'm after an old style avant, because they seem like a very simple built and have no plastic panels. Don't see why I should prefer the newer ones except of their look.

Imho a great deal if this size is needed.

In particular no, but would agree it's custom made. But obviously it has been used for a while, so it seems to work. When looking at the picture my guess is, that it may outperform many grinders on the market. It has 360 degree sweep which is a fantastic feature and a dozer blade on the correct side of the machine, not on the pointless back. I guess it grinds at least 20-30" deep and it may have gobs of power due to it's 3 pot diesel so a minimum of torque loaded 35-50hp on the grinder head. In addition there is no hydro pump taking away any torque from the engine. Due to it's - I guess crazy weight, it will be stable as a mountain. Which are the downsides: heavy and too big for tight gardens but a a killer for reasonable sized landclearing and big lumps and maybe some light forestry mulching. I guess parts are much cheaper than boutique parts from the well knowns. Depending on the price, the available space and towing vehicle, I would seriously consider it as a special. You may need to have some wrenching skills. What engine is on there, what hours at which price? Interesting built.

At least their g-coupler is definitely worth it, use it since 3 years now and it's really less frustrating than the regular couplers. But it's an illussion to belivieve it won't get messy. In the end you have it grease-covered like it's collegues in addition it's a little long and it won't fit in tight corners. The ease of use cuts it. If it ever breaks, I would buy it again on the spot.

I run a Honda trimmer with a GX35 and one with a GX25 engine, my stihl kombi is a km130. While beeing the heaviest, the gx35 is the smoothest to run with nice torque. The gx25 for some reason, seems more stressed and could use a little more grunt from time to time, but tada - it's lighter. Both are so quite, it's tempting to keep the ear muffs in the garage. The Stihl is terrrible loud and I don't want to use it longer than an hour because of the vibes it gives, but it has the most power and is by far the lightest. So it's got the most use as a blower. The Hondas start easier than the Stihl. I fitted the GX35 with a stihl kombi shaft, so I can use all the kombi attachments, which gives me the best of both worlds. If I had to pick one only, it would be the GX35 with a shoulder strap or harnish.

Sheeps prefer weeds, goats love sapplings and shrubs, let em do the job for you.

Had one, not a tipper, did 200.000 km with it. Replaced glow plugs, 2 wheel bearings, the battery, tires, brakes and a few bulbs, that was all. No rust in 10 years, then traded in for a ducato. I was more than pleased. Avoid the 2.2 engines, best bet is the 3.0 followed by the 2.3(ducato only). Both engines are ivecos the other ones are prone ford engines designed for cars. Used the 2.2 are cheap for a reason, they run away after the pistons crack as they're not made for being used under load.

I'd rather use my Alpine before I touch my walk behind as it's just a back breaker. Maybe the small self propellered fsi could be an expensive way out.

No way you can get on without a Honda gas or a Hatz or a Yanmar diesel. When going with one of them, you ensure, that the electronics are quality parts as well, they last and are reliable. No point in spending any coin in something that declines to start or to deliver power when needed, than all money is lost as well as your days work. Diesel is loud but efficient and lasts forever, Honda is really quite. Be patient on the bay: caught a slightly used Honda for 50,- and a brand new yanmar for 300,- including tax. Well worth the search.

Never used one or the other, but just the specs tell me to go with the p38. Grinds deeper, grinds higher is wider and narrower on demand and travels twice as fast. The 400 kgs will not make a day and night difference on the ground, maybe during transport depending on the vehicle. Got an 1120kg tracked grinder, when not careful and you jump from a curb on a tile, they crack. Always use logs or planks and you're fine, that's the price of a tracked machine. Three point turns on turf with wide arcs work fine avoiding damage. And keep your 252 as backup or for really sensitve areas.

Never used one, but have quite some hours spent with my Alpine. My first thought was, that it is incredible light, half a magnum, which definitely seems like a great thing. After thoroughly investigating the videos, it seemed like exactly what you described: the machine or at least the grinding head seems too light and needs to be pushed in the stump. An Alpine literally drops into the wood and with experience you learn how to use it with minimum to nearly no effort. Only dragging it up a steep incline, where the wheels can't be used is pita. AV gloves are a must. Maybe on the predator they should change the pivot-point's position more toward the engine.

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Afaik oil bath filters only can filter 90% or less particles. A Stumper is literally a dust cannon and the filter is very close to the pipe. There is a reason nearly any engine uses paper elements, some even have an additional safety filters, especially stumpers. Imho that oil bath filter is the worst system a stumper can have. In addition I firmly believe, that running a diesel wot all the time, is manhandling it. Ask farmers, they run their tractors way below max.. Wot is far away from the max torque, but this is what you want. Those lombardinis like 1800-2200rpms. Even it's an solid industrial engine, which is bullet proof, revving always to the red line, always takes it's tribute. Especially when under 100% load a stumper demands.

Balfor has one as well.

Interesting, I'm not very happy with the damping the original muffs give, where can I get the upgrade?

Those clutches have an internal brake, that should stop the wheel instantly, so it seems to work fine. Swinny your 252 may be faulty. Remember to properly burn in your new clutch or it may fail soon again.

Tracked dumpers only make sense if they have a self loading bucket. Had a dumper without one and always found it pointless, as you're limited to your shovel-speed and efficiency and filling 1 ton of anything in a dumper by hand is plain pain. Now got a bucket on it since 2 years and it's just fun, you can even lift logs or grade dirt with it, 6 buckets and the dumper is filled. Even little digging is possible. When just transporting things, the bucket gives a nice additional extension for long stuff like pole saw long logs or just extra volume for more loose material. Consider this before spending money.

Leads me again to the conclusion that a grinder should be stupid simple. Talked to a collegue who is using an european made rc-machine. Had over 30 breakdowns in 5 years and over 1000 hrs due to elctrical issues. Was able to solve them all on his own but for the moment the machine sits in the customer's yard. Annoying.

Stefan, replace the kohler once it starts using more oil, sarting bad or sounding strange. Mine used very little always, suddenly it went up to maybe a a cup every 25hrs, then I bought new. I see no point in overhauling a 2k engine. Some Kohlers go behind 4000hrs in stumpers, others die @500hrs. Warm up, cool down, change oil and filters. Just a gamble of luck.

If I had to buy a wee chipper again, it would have to be self propellered. Struggling a heavy machine in wet conditions or on slopes and ramps is the worst pita after or during an (exhausting) job. Never again.

Lol, the new site seems to lack information, all I see in mobile view is: Posted on saturday at 11:04, no year or date.

I recently did a residental job for an independend evaluator for construction machinery. While discussing about equipment, we came to small articulated loaders. He strongly adviced me to stay away from anything young aged with more than1500 hrs, as these wee machines had their best times after that and serious trouble is not far away now (engine, hydro drive and pumps). Not sure how true this is, but he was doing a very good living estimating machinery all day long and seemed very experienced to me. Not a true pricing for you but valuable advice maybe.