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marne

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Everything posted by marne

  1. OK, then I can buy the pirated ones. Anyone know where to find some? Thought I was good on Google but am having problems spotting them. The price for a new set is rediculous. They are nothing more than 5mm thick sickle bar mower blades, which are about 1.50 a piece.
  2. doobin, check for octagonal shaped engine covers, they seem to be the way to go. I'm sure you'll find a clone out there, check for 10bars as well. I have that one as workshop compressor. https://www.welding-machines.com/Air-Compressor-STAHLWERK-ST-510-Pro They give 7 years warranty, so I couldn't resist. Have it a year now and it works flawless. When cleaning a saw, depending on the nozzle, you have never less than 6bars, the tank never semms to get empty, no probs with continuous impact wrenching as well.
  3. I have 2 silent compressors. One is 2.8kw, 4 cylinder with 10bars the other one is this one: Stanley silent comp While the first one really moves some air and is noise wise a relief compared to my old one, I can't rate the stanley high enough for beeing that quiet. Found it as b-stock for about 150. No problem on sundays using it in the garden. If you place it indoors, nobody will hear it, outdoors the noise reminds me of an old style fridge. Funny noise. Takes a while to fill those 50L but anyway, love it. When buying one of those silent compressors, make sure the the engine covers have the octagonal shape, that seems to be the latest make with some improvements over the first (round) style they made in China. Best regards
  4. Agree as well and in addition since having a van and a 4x4, I experience a vehicle breakdown to be a seriously relaxed situation in my bizz. That even calms when both are running fine, as your always prepared to continue your work. Like an insurance, you pay for a peaceful mind.
  5. Two of my collegues have one. Both Auto and 3.2 around 2017-2018. While only towing occasionly, one fried it's gearbox around 90.000km. The other one blew it's engine last week around 110.000km, daily towing. Enough for me to steer away from them.
  6. Is that rue? Thanks
  7. Belt rakes are clumsy and you will only be able to travel perpendicular to the slope. The walkbehinds, even with difflock can't hold the track, when the belt rake tries to point down the slope. The tiny wheels on those are no help here.
  8. It's very likely you just need to replace the coupler. Anyway, I dare to advice you, just to take the wrench first and tighten the old one a little, maybe that’s just it.
  9. I think the stuff is named polyurethane, you tell the tire guys which tire pressure you need and they adjust the fill. On my loader, it feels as if they're air filled, they still have nice suspension. Other than a sealent, that material adds some serious weight to the tires, maybe even more than water.
  10. Instead of water, I would go to a tire dealer and let them foamfill all 4 tires. You get them puncture proof that way and have a lower center of gravity. Nothing worse than loosing a days work due to a flat. You will face approx 400€, but worth the saved trouble.
  11. I have some experience with those. They're fabulous vans, but if they have to work hard, try to avoid the 2.2 at all cost. Go with the 3.0 or the 2.3 (Ducato only) engines. These are industrial grade engines from Iveco, same as the dailys have, while the 2.2 are consumer-car-crap fitted in a van. They tend to have cracking the pistons. When towing, they work fine up to 2.5 Tons. Mine is rated for 3t, but everytime I tow that load, it somehow feels as if it's wrong. Eventho mine can be uprated to 3.5t. Pulled 3t through snowy hills this Winter with white roads. Worked better than expected. One note: the reverse gear is way too fast in every aspect. Even empty you have to let the clutch slip. So no joy with a trailer here. Best choice would be the latest autotranny. Regards
  12. Eventho he's a tight arse, you shouldn't charge the customer for operator error or machines broken down, especially if it's a good customer who has fed you family over the years. Think of All the money you made with him, so what's 650+ a day? In addition, I guess there is not even the slightest chance if a lawyer would come into play, he'll whipe you off the table in a second.
  13. Can't see any reason to part with a paid off diesel grinder owned from new if it really is 40hp+. At least would keep it as backup and to be able to tackle bigger jobs, instead of feeding the competition with cheap machines. It has 150% of the torque the sg40 gives and only sips fuel and what are the 15k today you may get from it? Check the price for 40hp+ diesel grinders, lean back and smile. Hell yeah, take a couple thousand and get that electrical issue sortet or upgrade that wired remote to a wireless one. If it's really used that rarely, it will stay the rest of your career with you.
  14. I rarely get more than 21mpg from mine, long motorway rides behind a truck give me 26, but then your shoes are far away from ever touching the pedal. When I tow the 3t tipper with branches and stuff, it's regulary about 18mpg. The enclosed 3t plant trailer drops me to 12mpgs, which somehow hurts a little compared to a tiny lorry. As a daily onroad driver, 6.5 from 10. Regarded as a combined ute and family van, solid 8.5 as it's really handy to have in any situation. Can't see any reason to waste money on vehicles like these if they're not earning a dime pulling trailers, taking you into the deepest forests or into the outback.
  15. G Coupler here too, works fabulous since years. For those tight spots, I keep a regular one in the shelf.
  16. Rebuild it with an original carb kit. Doesn't need to be stihl branded, often it's just a Walbro or Zama carb. Buy it from them and you automatically get some peace of mind, especially if it's still not running after repair.
  17. A two wheel tractor with a flail attachment is the ticket. Halfway affordable and opens a few more uses around the yard and maybe for some customer's as well.
  18. You need to buy other brackets. Did it to one of mine, because the dampening was insufficient for one of my machines, upgraded it to peltor X5. In general it seems to me, that the protos, eventho it has a certificate, does not do a very good job in noise reduction. I upgraded my other one with aluminium butyl in the cups and peltor foam rings. Much better now, but nö comparison to the X5.
  19. If it still runs, you're probably ok. I would replace fuel, prime often, run and go. If it runs fine, what should be wrong? In best case you've just lost a few hours lifespan. As it's brand new you will loose warranty if a dealer should open it, because your worried of the wrong fuel. If your buddy opens it, scratches on the screws will tell your dealer in a later warranty case, that somebody messed with it. If it will break soon, because of the fuel you just take the warranty.
  20. The bodies are superb and litterally never rust, but I would avoid the 2.2 engine at all cost. Go with those Ducatos instead, proven iveco engines in there with the same sturdy vehicle around them. Go with the maxi-Chassis, which will give you beefed up brakes and an unofficial gross weight of 4.2t with the right tires. Suspension upgrades can be had for less than 1k. Buy one with the suspension seat and your in spine-heaven.
  21. When the hydraulics don't work I would Start with the pump. Check the belt tension, probably replace the belt, cheap as chips, under an hour. If still no power, replace filter and check the control valve (if there on yours) on the left of the levers, close it. Unplug the autosweep little wired Black Box under the hood. Still no success? Maybe pump is done. Even the most tired kohler should spin this pump it's about 2-4kw only. The kohler is about 2.5grand, easy to replace on your own. Would not hassle with rebuild, if you have a New engine, you get at least another 1000hrs, the record holders have clocked over 4000hrs on Kohlers in their 252s.
  22. Ballast filled tires may be worth a try.
  23. Why the upgrade? I would prefer the old style sturdyness over electronic and plastic improvements.
  24. They can run easily 300-400k miles and more, make sure they have the gutter under the hood, that leads water away from the timing belt, this issue is resolved in later years. If it's not there, you can buy the cheap upgrade kit. They litterally never rust, and tow well up to 2-2.5t. I pulled 3t several times but here it get's jerky, engine pulls fine but the handling is weird. They have more room and payload than others, but it makes them wider too. Reverse gear is a little fast. Avoid the old automatic transmission, which is just a robot shifting a regular gear, problems waiting for you. Latest 9 speed autos seem to be the perfect choice, but the hand shifting is fine as well. Would buy another on the spot.
  25. Nice and simple, many thanks!

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