Macpherson

Hi, just to say that although silicon sealer is great stuff unless there's been a new type developed that I'm unaware of it's dissolved by petrol. For many years while working on motorcycles I removed silicone sealers from engine parts the easy way by leaving it to perish by placing the components in a bath of petrol, it doesn't take long. I also often encountered endless fuel system problems where silicone sealants had been used on carbs and manifold joints etc...... of course most of these machines were 4 stroke, I wouldn't use silicone on any part of a 2 stroke that comes into contact with petrol. Personally I use Hylomar when assembling engines, for which the solvent is cellulose thinners, I haven't used Dirko so I can't comment but I did notice that it's silicone based and recommended for motorcycles ..... nearly all of which are now 4 stroke..... , perhaps you should try seeing what a soaking in petrol does to it. Just my take on the subject of silicone sealers, there are many different options out there... cheers. https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/adhesives-and-sealants/gaskets/hylomar-universal-blue-medium-40gm/p/HYL7032500K?utm_campaign=pla-Adhesives+%26+Sealants+-+&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping-pla&utm_keyword=HYL7032500K&istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istItemId=aq

Hi, this might help if it's not what you've already got, looking forward to seeing how you get on, cheers http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Workshop%20Manual%20Stihl%20070%20090.pdf

done.

Hi, looks like an interesting project, is it easy to operate, cheers.

Sometimes one of these type connectors can be forced on and used as a tool to get them moving, but yes, get them out and put a slot in them, Insulated Crimp Ebb Blue Butt Pack of 100 | Crimp Terminals | Screwfix.com

That's fair comment but I've had a few Titan tools from screwfix that have lasted well and on the whole I'd have to say that even although they're competitively priced they're not complete crap. There's also do bosch, oregon makita and others if you don't like the Titan, cheers.

You could do worse than this for £50, powerfull enough for home use, shouldn't annoy the neighbours too much and a 2 year warranty....of course Stihl do something similar for 6 times the price....but they won't send it to you. Titan TTB355CHN 40.5cm 2000W Electric Chainsaw 230V | Electric | Screwfix.com

Yeah, very interesting video, thanks.

Yep had the same 3 times last November, let my pc guy see it before doing anything financial online, he told me that things like this go around and I should be ok as long as I don't open it or respond to it, not had it since but I gotta say that being of a certain age and not very clued up with these things I get left feeling extremely vulnerable ! cheers

Hi, I was taught that the scales of the cones of European larch are tightly grouped at their tips whereas with the jap larch the scales curl outwards or flare slightly at the tip, this of course may be of no help with hybrids. cheers.

Hi, it looks a bit like what happens with my flue, it looks from the photo like the single wall flue pipe next to the stove is made of two parts designed to be telescopic in order to let expansion and contraction to happen, when this moving joint gets coked up the flue pipe creeps out the top of the stove bit by bit, but it's hard to tell exactly from the pic, cheers.

Whist there's no doubt that in most areas of science ' big pharma ' amongst others, behave in a totally irresponsible manner in the pursuit of profit and their ultimate goal of total control, at any cost and regardless of the consequences. Apart from global concerns it seems to me that the other side of the coin is that by reading and understanding the article posted by Goaty on page 9 and anything else that raises awareness, the average person who might find themself having to use this stuff at work may be better able to evaluate the risks and take steps to limit their exposure on a day to day basis. Personally I like to think that I'm always careful, but reading articles like that now and again can't do any harm and may be a balance against any complacency that creeps in........cheers.

Thanks, such small amounts having a measurable effect, having read that I'll need to rethink even my minimal contact with the stuff !

As far as I remember it's modified Carlton chain and as the teeth are ground to the new profile of the scorers and clearers of ripping chain the metal becomes ' work hardened ' which makes it very hard on ordinary files. I also use the Granberg grinder to sharpen it. The harder the better imo

I've used the Colron wood dyes but not their Danish oil, may just take time, cheers.

Hi, I'm no expert but you could try adding something like this to your oil, it would help it to dry but won't leave a hardglaze finish like modern varnish. Or use a different oil based product. Rustins Paint Driers 300ml RUSPD300 | eBay I,d probably use white spirit to rub off as much as poss. of the previous coat and allow to dry first, drying times can vary allot, with oil it's as many light coats as you can be bothered doing, good luck.

Sorry for any confusion, I use a ladder as normal for the horizontal cuts with the Alaskan, the alloy box section is only to replace the plank when doing vertical cuts with the mini mill and by fixing the T bolt bar to it I'll be able to make sliding right angle type brackets in order to be able to fix it to the end any length of log therefore avoiding screwing onto the surface. As my piece of extrusion is 4 meters long I mostly won't need to extend it, but as I see that that's what you're looking into I wouldn't see a problem with locking 2 pieces of 6 x 2" box together with a well finished bit of wood ,or metal, that's a nice sliding fit inside them and held in place with some screws on the 2" face. Having said all that, if your going to the bother of making a purpose built jig it might be an idea to start from scratch and make it long enough for most of the jobs you do, in my case 4m is about the max for my roof rack !! Cheers,

Hi, so my thoughts on the alloy box section that I use at the moment is to build it into more of an adjustable jig. By fixing a bit of aluminium T bolt extrusion to the inside 2" face of the box section, end clamp fixings could be easily made up to make a sliding jig and then the tool becomes adjustable just like the Alaskan...just an option, cheers. SELECT NUTS M5-M8 FOR 20,30,40,45 T-SLOT ALUMINIUM EXTRUSION PROFILE - 3D/CNC | eBay something like this, but the heavier the better.... and I don't know if you weld or you've used this stuff before, but with this you can do a really strong bond to these materials with a good blowtorch 5 Aluminium repair rods (low temp, no Flux required!), HTS2000 (the real one) | eBay

Hi, I use an alloy box section similar to your description for my mini mill, I simply screw that onto the flat surface left by the top cut of the Alaskan using slender 8 gauge countersunk wood screws which I don't find leave a hole that's particularly visible in the finish which is, I take it, what your trying to avoid. The only other thing is that I've got an accurately planned piece of wood slid inside the full length of the extrusion to stop it being deformed by the screws and it also gives the straightedge a bit more of a solid feel. I have in the past considered various ways of end clamping as you describe but tbh I'll probably never get round to it, cheers.

Why not make your own, 1kg of this will dissolve into 5 gallons of water and make a saturated solution to paint on your timber, cheers. Borax Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate 99.9% Lab Grade 500g 1KG 2KG 5KG 10KG 25KG | eBay

Hi, this is interesting to me as I,ve used Rowan to make tool handles on various occasions over the years { for myself }. I've read that this is one of the traditional uses for this wood and I,ve found it to be tactile to work with and also very durable about the garden. Although it's known as ' mountain ash ' it's a Sorbus and no relation to Ash, so it's curious that it's got similar properties as well as similar leaves. The longest handle I,ve made was about 18" and slender for a scutch hammer which worked well, I'll now need to try it on something more heavy duty just out of curiosity, I,m not sure if it would be ok for use with a felling axe or the like, good luck.

Hi, it's worth mentioning that engineers cutting compound should always be used when drilling or machining metals, it makes a tremendous difference to cutting ability and tool life, Rocol or Trefolex for instance. Dormer HSS etc for me too, the drills from Screwfix and the like are toy town in comparison, also as said, if you've got decent drills it's worthwhile learning how to sharpen them, cheers.

Came across this a while ago, some of you might find it interesting bearing in mind the cost of proper engineers files these days. http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRakH7TrE2E If the link doesn't work check out file sharpening with acid on youtube

If it's any help use this company for files, they've got an ebay shop, cheers. http://http://www.proopsbrothers.com/files-36-c.asp