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Copford sawmill sussex

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Everything posted by Copford sawmill sussex

  1. Ah there is another new mill they have bought out been in the forestry journals lately
  2. Before anyone moans ha ha I am Woodmizer biased as we have used then for 20+ years
  3. Not heard much about these, Woodmizer now have a tiny new mill out that's about the same size. With there parts and back up might be worth a look too? http://www.woodmizer.co.uk/main/index.aspx?lc=UK
  4. Yep, that's amazing !!
  5. Just working out a quote have you got a direct email or phone number? Pm if pos
  6. We have plenty of w r c in but is Sussex too far?
  7. This is 2 bits joined together 2" thick ash. Doesn't look like it's joined either.
  8. That wide unless you get some fancy foreign wood, it's gonna cup and move, like has been said I would suggest a few bits biscuit jointed together. Carefully done and by the time you cover it in oil and tools to the untrained eye it will look like one lump. We can cut/supply oak that size but wouldn't recommend it.
  9. By the way have you got any large oak coming out? Seeings we are between your two destinations 👍
  10. Or abotshire ? Think that's the spelling we have used them a few times
  11. We use brain all the time, he should be able to sort you out
  12. How about sump oil that stops anything rotting!!
  13. We have done lovely elm at the moment but it is green
  14. 55mm and we have some 75mm
  15. We have some 4m 4' wide boards that have been drying about a year if this is any help. There oak so not dry enough to kiln yet but have been drying for a year inside.
  16. Basically the boards you cut will be green regardless of sap, so they will need drying. As the boards dry the annual rings try and straighten. If they dry too quickly too much water will try to evaporate and so the boards will crack. Direct sunlight is warm this get them out the sunlight. You need them to dry slowly hence ours go in the woods. Plenty of cool air to help dry them and no harmful rays. Boards will cup and split regardless your just trying to minimise this as slowly as you can. The cordsraps we have came from the apf we bought enough to last us till the next one lol
  17. We mill all year round, the key is knowing what times to do what we have prob got a few more weeks we will plank butts up and then it will be beaming as usual. As long as you can get your timber covered and out the sun it should be fine all year. Granted the big bits we obly cut in the cooler months but we have to cut all year round beaming and joinery so just make sure anything you cut is out the sun These two butts were cut in the last two weeks we then leave them in the woods for a year
  18. Brown oak is fine for joinery as long as it is hard but if it goes soft it's no good for no one. It's allowed in construction if hard but it is not favoured by the majority. We had aassive lump that was brown and ended up getting hardly anything out of it !
  19. If in the round your trying to sell for the most so surely you would offer it out and then sell to the hugest bidder, the last parcel of oak we bought the trees varied from £5 to £11 a cube
  20. Is your timber still in the round or milled?
  21. Wicked video never seen it from that angle
  22. Seeing as it's free hand that's pretty good, don't think my chainsaw skills would be any better lol
  23. I think if you give an honest answer you'll get good happy customers. No point breaking anything and 9 times out of ten things are never as urgent as there beloved to be
  24. The worse is when you get asked to mill some timber give then a lead time and then they say, well so and so can do it sooner. Then you get a call a few days later saying they've been let Down and could we just try and cut as soon as poss

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