muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Slates is the same as shingles. Triple layer at the overlaps. Get what your saying with books but if material is thin enough it's not a problem.
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It's in Gerrard s cross. Not really bothered about someone looking at it as the guy who is contracted to fell it says it looks good on the outside. Just wondered if this long dead standing usually makes it firewood. To be honest it's about 50 mins away from me so for a good saw log on the cheap it's fine . But for firewood a little far. But he only wants a bit for it so wouldn't be terrible for firewood. Thanks for the offer though.
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I've been offered a 3 ft diameter clean dead standing oak. No pics. And it's a little too far to go look. It's not been felled yet and I would have to collect it the day it was. He doesn't want much for it. Anyway My question is has any one had any experience milling oak that's been dead that long and how has it been. Been dead 15 years minimum I'm told. Thanks James
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As a rule you should always mill asap after felling. Some species can sit for longer than others and be fine. Some people like to leave oak sitting for a year or 2 before milling but in most species this wouldn't do it any good. Always best to mill as soon as you can ime.
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Eves course at the bottom is fine. Just kick the fascia up a little more. Surely the face of a shingle with no taper is sitting at a steeper angle than a tapered . So as long as there not too thick it shouldn't be a problem . I've repaired old slate roofs where the slates were stupidly thick and you can get away with that.
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http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworking-workshop-equipment-sharpening-machines-work-sharp-systems-2016-year-model-work-sharp-tool-sharpener-with-free-knife-sharpening-system-work-sharp+ws3000kit This is what I use. Got fir crimbo one year. Use it mainly for my chisels and planes huch its excellent at. But it's ace for knives too
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It's been given the test of time. Shakes are also thicker so thus will explain some of the extra life.
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Here's a picture of a larch building with larch shingles on the roof. They have no taper. Not my build but my friends. The only picture I could find of a roof with shingles with no taper.
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Exactly. Also they tend to be thicker and more random. Hence harder to fit. I've shingled a roof before with larch shingles that were cut into 8 x 1/4" boards and then crosscut on a compound mitre saw. So no taper. They worked fine and were much quicker to cut. What's people's theories on why a tapered shingle is better. I get it with a shake, there so thick you need the taper to get them to sit right. But shingles are not really thicker than a slate so i don't really see the point in the taper. Or am i missing something.
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Another funny one for ya.
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Like the jig. Very nifty. Cleft shingles will last longer than sawn so it is a better job. But slow to make.
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Biscuits or loose tongues depending on application. Festool domino is ace if you have big pockets. You can buy a bit fir biscuiting for your router which you can also use to fit loose tongues. The only problem with cheap biscuit joiners is keeping them square in the setup. Cam be a pita. If you have a router and want to do it on the cheap then I would use that. Or buy a mid range jointer.
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Woodworking chisels.... different types for what jobs?
muttley9050 replied to SteveA's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Augers remove wood quicker. Forstner bit can have a larger diameter and leave a neater hole with a flat bottom. You can't get the length in a Forstner bit like an auger. Both fit in regular drills and both have there places for different jobs. If cleaning out a mortice in green oak i would opt for an auger as there easier to sharpen ,drill deeper and pull on nicely. If making a rebate for a tea light or similar i would use a Forstner for a flat bottom. Others opinions may vary. Its personal preference really. -
Top work matey. Where about was that then.
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Thanks. Very nice. Love the story behind you getting it too.
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Lovely machine. Can we get a few more pics of it please.
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I can remember where I've been so luckily I don't need to bother.
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Yes exactly. I've had it before and reckon it's out of order. If they have accepted a price it's none of there business how you divvy up the proceeds. I just made it up .
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Mill it on site . Much cheaper
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Just less than two years ago I bought a 05 ranger super cab for 4k. It was owned by a celeb chef and un worked with 88ķ on clock. It's a great truck and capable of what you need it for. I reckon you should be able to find an 05/6 for the money you have and that would be my choice. Find a clean one though and be prepared to replace the clutch.
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I would say £400.its a lovely hard to find slab. Coffee tables are £250 in oak furniture land(pardon my french). its all about finding the right market. if it was a plain oak slab I'd agree with Steve.
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Got a book that I think has plans In, will try to remember and look later . Pretty easy though really if you know how to pitch a standard roof. If not then plans won't help much unless you're used to working to them.
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If I charged £150 a day like you. Here's how it would split it. £50 for the company towards tools, insurance ,pricing of jobs etc. £60 for me and £40 fir the helper. This is paper round money. Not skilled labour money. Primary reason for business is to make money.
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If you have someone coming to saw them, hopefully they will have the experience of how to get the best yield. What sort mill are they bringing?
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Why did the baker have brown hands? Because he needed a poo!
