muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Nice video and lovely workshop. Is that just standard polystyrene your plunge cutting on?
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Location and pics of tree would help. I may be interested as would others ,depending on quality and location. If it's a decent saw log you may get £100-150 for it so it wouldn't cover removal. Rot in ash can be terminal though.
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I'd use oak as I prefer the end grain.
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Ok. This is the only pic I have. Somebody emailed me saying is it worth milling them and can I quote. They described them as hardwood logs. This is all I know. If it is oak then there is a lot of sapwood. I have asked him for more info. Thanks for trying anyhow.
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My other vehicle is a 4x4 Or James betteress construction and timber services.
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Cam someone give me a second opinion on what these butts are. Thanks.
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Any reason not to mill Ash that has been down a while?
muttley9050 replied to Ghettoblaster's topic in Milling Forum
Ash can go over quite quickly when down but 18 months should be Ok. I'd evaluate each log individually for signs of decay before I commited. -
Isn't it funny that you don't even have to check the names of the trolls. You already know who they are. This site doesn't need them. The desperate position of these people is not of there own making. They are running from despots, civil war and foreign planes bombing there houses. Grow up some of you.
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Impressive videos on the link
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They look interesting . Do they seal to the eyes. How much is vision reduced?
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I've had to fit those slates before. Proper nightmare and stupidly heavy.
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What is going on there
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Natananko 330 for me. Never gets bogged down in the cut.
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I agree with most of that but slates are definitely not tapered.
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Ok. It's mine. I will collect it at the end of next week and get some pics up for you all. Think I will dimension cut the top and bottom and get some nice slabs of the middle. Be a good chance to tune up the lucas slabber which I've been reading up a lot on. The last time I used it on a 5 ft beech at 4 m long the chain was diving in the cut a little. The far end was 6mm thicker than the near end. Keen to get it setup perfectly.
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I was concerned drying process would of created shake around the centre. Bet it hasn't dried much though. Think I will collect it and see how I get on. Don't know about bats sorry. Felling contract had nothing to do with me. Cheers for advice
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Slates is the same as shingles. Triple layer at the overlaps. Get what your saying with books but if material is thin enough it's not a problem.
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It's in Gerrard s cross. Not really bothered about someone looking at it as the guy who is contracted to fell it says it looks good on the outside. Just wondered if this long dead standing usually makes it firewood. To be honest it's about 50 mins away from me so for a good saw log on the cheap it's fine . But for firewood a little far. But he only wants a bit for it so wouldn't be terrible for firewood. Thanks for the offer though.
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I've been offered a 3 ft diameter clean dead standing oak. No pics. And it's a little too far to go look. It's not been felled yet and I would have to collect it the day it was. He doesn't want much for it. Anyway My question is has any one had any experience milling oak that's been dead that long and how has it been. Been dead 15 years minimum I'm told. Thanks James
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As a rule you should always mill asap after felling. Some species can sit for longer than others and be fine. Some people like to leave oak sitting for a year or 2 before milling but in most species this wouldn't do it any good. Always best to mill as soon as you can ime.
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Eves course at the bottom is fine. Just kick the fascia up a little more. Surely the face of a shingle with no taper is sitting at a steeper angle than a tapered . So as long as there not too thick it shouldn't be a problem . I've repaired old slate roofs where the slates were stupidly thick and you can get away with that.
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http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworking-workshop-equipment-sharpening-machines-work-sharp-systems-2016-year-model-work-sharp-tool-sharpener-with-free-knife-sharpening-system-work-sharp+ws3000kit This is what I use. Got fir crimbo one year. Use it mainly for my chisels and planes huch its excellent at. But it's ace for knives too
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It's been given the test of time. Shakes are also thicker so thus will explain some of the extra life.
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Here's a picture of a larch building with larch shingles on the roof. They have no taper. Not my build but my friends. The only picture I could find of a roof with shingles with no taper.
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Exactly. Also they tend to be thicker and more random. Hence harder to fit. I've shingled a roof before with larch shingles that were cut into 8 x 1/4" boards and then crosscut on a compound mitre saw. So no taper. They worked fine and were much quicker to cut. What's people's theories on why a tapered shingle is better. I get it with a shake, there so thick you need the taper to get them to sit right. But shingles are not really thicker than a slate so i don't really see the point in the taper. Or am i missing something.
