muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Completely agree, go for it, gloss paint or pva on the ends. paraffin wax is the traditional material used i believe, but a right faff. Cherry is a beautiful wood but have always found it to be very sussceptable to warping and moving. Bought one piece from a farmer milled into 8x8,he told me it was 6 years old, Thought id resaw into one 8x4 and two 8x2s, let if finish drying and make a table. Made first cut in middle and watched the two bits bend like bananas in front of my eyes. I cut them in half and still have them stacked. Will get round to the table one day. Happy milling. james
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Sounds to me like blocked main jet, running on pilot jet until you give it some revs. My advice would be, remove and open carb, use a paint brush and petrol to clean everything. Locate the main jet. Probably brass and it will unscrew. Remove carefully and use some thin copper wire to poke any gunk out of jet. Flush through with petrol and a short blow like a straw. Rebuild carb and replace. Then test.... Hope this helps
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Heres the link. The guys a bit more safety conscious than me, but good at what he does. I set my table saw at 42degrees for the cuts and it works well.Then i buy good quality wet and dry in rolls and stick it in strips to some plate glass i use 6 grades upto 600grit and those blades come out super sharp. I now keep my blades sharper than when i had to send off. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIBKp9_hWLo]Planer knife honing jig - YouTube[/ame] Cheers James
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Hi Alec, Ive got a dw733 too, and your right there great, brought mine factory reconditioned and it was a bargain. made a simple jig so i can sharpen my blades my self, as i was never happy with the quality of sharpening at my local shop, and the amount of material they removed. Jig is easy to make and i get my blades super sharp now. Only send them off for grinding if i take a big lump out of them. Not sure how the jig would work on 24" blades but i guess if your wet and dry was long enough its possible. Let me now if your interested and ill send you a video link. Clive, do you choose to cut your boards out on a bandsaw or router with template. Thanks James
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Rat Control (or rather elimination)
muttley9050 replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in General chat
As stated above, come down hard with all possible means and alternate between different poisons. -
Oh" yeah, timber will need to be 1"-1 1/2" Thanks
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Hey all. Im after enough seasoned larch to make 3 yurt doors and door frames. Customer wants them done out of larch coz hes heard it should be cheap and is good in the weather. Tried to explain that its only cheap if its locally available but hey ho. If no larch please let me know of alternatives you have in stock. Havent worked out cutting list yet but will post as soon as i do. Guess its about 5ft3. thanks James
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fyi all these apps are available on android too and will run fine on the cheaper handsets
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iphones are too expensive and imo not worth the money, lots of restrictions from apple, fixed batteries etc. I would go for an open source operating system like android. For what you want i would recommend something like the samsung galaxy ace, available at less than 1/4 the price of an iphone and more than capable of running basic office tasks.
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What are peoples thoughts on lime, worth milling or firewood?
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Thanks guys, so its looking like the resounding advice is probably get bandsaw mill,so a couple more questions if thats ok. If i were to buy a mizer what would be the smallest size i should consider(would be looking at secondhand so may not have many options, secondly when working in the field is a mill on ground tracks at all practical, or should they all be trailer mounted without question. Another reason i like the peterson is that ican store it in the dry easier than i would be able to a trailer mounted mill. thx
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Imo dewalt ppe is all pretty bad, had boots, wellies, steelie trainers, gloves, jackets and all have been below standard. Run alot of there tools which i really like but ppe never again. Old gaffer used to hand out the boots and stuff but i wouldnt buy any of it.
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log burner not producing much heat?
muttley9050 replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Most flues guaranteed for 10 years, i've replaced an 8 year old flue once! -
log burner not producing much heat?
muttley9050 replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
well apologies then for mis-informing, I wouldnt want to be on clean up duties though if you ever had reason to remove the register plate:laugh1: -
log burner not producing much heat?
muttley9050 replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Just remember its easy to take a liner out,but harder to put it back, if its a new liner it should be fine, if you go down the removing route,that i wouldnt recommend,be sure to check the overall condition of stack first. -
log burner not producing much heat?
muttley9050 replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
If you've got a metal retro fitted liner,you cant insulate it,only concrete liners can be insulated whilst stackis being built, this willonly help with draw when cold anyway. Sounds to me that its thebaffle for sure. heat going straight up chimney -
log burner not producing much heat?
muttley9050 replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Just googled your stove and it looks ok no back boiler though. Go through things systematically as above but dont expect immediate heat. takes a little time to get going. -
log burner not producing much heat?
muttley9050 replied to roglog's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
As paul said, first thing to do is check the draw, take some crumpled newspaper and light it, let it burn a moment then blow it out whilst it is outside the door, most of the smoke should be sucked in through the door. If there is no draw then sweep chimney, if there is a draw then you check the baffle, this should be covering the flue outlet of the stove, but not blocking it(stopping flames and heat shooting straight up the chimney/flue). I this is all ok check there is no damper fitted. If all is correct then i can only assume you have a back boiler fitted and this is sapping all the heat. Most likely cause imo is a misplaced baffle allowing too much heat straight up chimney. James -
Yeah good point, i live with a couple of germans and from the sound of it there stoves seem to be a little more advanced than ours, alot more gassification and thermal mass, but do you really think that these sweeps are servicing these appliances too? The only gassification boiler we have is by far the easiest to sweep and we service this boiler monthly and clean weekly.
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This is very true, in several other countries too. In u.k. profession is unregulated and the only way to see if a sweep is good is wether hes a member of the guild of master chimney sweeps. Ive swept countless chimneys and flues in my time, and no disrespect to trained sweeps, but im glad its unregulated and i can sweep my own chimneys. Its hardly rocket science.
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When you give your stove a good blasting the creosotes will heat up and run back down the flue into the stove,hence the reason that flues should always be socketed with the male on top of the female. I have seen this done the wrong way and creosotes then run down the outside of the flue. This leaves behind the clinker, which is far less volatile but causes the blockages. Your never going to leave your flue clean when you sweep it but you will leave it open with a good draw, reducing blockages and critically flue temperature. Its also important that you use a recognised flue product with a smooth inner wall as the clinker will fall off this far easier than the cheaper corrugated stuff.
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The problems occur when successive layers of these volatiles build up, They reduce the draw on the flue which increases flue temperature, if oxygen levels are high enough then this will catch fire and can burn at an intense temperature. Easy ways to avoid fires like this is to burn hot and fast,keeping plenty of air and heat so all fuel can be burnt, this is why gassification boilers are so efficient, they burn hot and fast burning all fuel including vapors. This method of burning is not ideal however in most domestic stoves, so its better to sweep your chimneys at least once a year, a far favorable option than burning your house down or giving yourself carbon monoxide poisoning.
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Ive also been looking at hudson 230+236mill and would be interested if anybody has an opinion on them.
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Top work mate, but how do u manage to get rid of so many stoppers and dibbers?. I struggle to shift things i make like that.
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Im sure the correct answer is minimum twice a year(thats what the fire brigade would sayto avoid chimney fires). But in reality it much depends how you use fire. I live in a house with probably 20 stoves and one gassification boiler. I think the boiler could go 5 years and be ok,but still we sweep once a yearin the autumn before first burn of season. Some of the fires in house need sweeping 3 times to keep clear. If you leave your stove open alot and dont shut it down once a year is fine, one stove in our place is lit constantly but nearly always shutdown on tickover, this needs sweeping 3 times. Buy some brushes and sweep yourself,in the long run its cheaper, u will get a feel for how much junk comes out when you do. James
