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muttley9050

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Everything posted by muttley9050

  1. muttley9050
    Most flues guaranteed for 10 years, i've replaced an 8 year old flue once!
  2. muttley9050
    well apologies then for mis-informing, I wouldnt want to be on clean up duties though if you ever had reason to remove the register plate:laugh1:
  3. muttley9050
    Just remember its easy to take a liner out,but harder to put it back, if its a new liner it should be fine, if you go down the removing route,that i wouldnt recommend,be sure to check the overall condition of stack first.
  4. muttley9050
    If you've got a metal retro fitted liner,you cant insulate it,only concrete liners can be insulated whilst stackis being built, this willonly help with draw when cold anyway. Sounds to me that its thebaffle for sure. heat going straight up chimney
  5. muttley9050
    Just googled your stove and it looks ok no back boiler though. Go through things systematically as above but dont expect immediate heat. takes a little time to get going.
  6. muttley9050
    As paul said, first thing to do is check the draw, take some crumpled newspaper and light it, let it burn a moment then blow it out whilst it is outside the door, most of the smoke should be sucked in through the door. If there is no draw then sweep chimney, if there is a draw then you check the baffle, this should be covering the flue outlet of the stove, but not blocking it(stopping flames and heat shooting straight up the chimney/flue). I this is all ok check there is no damper fitted. If all is correct then i can only assume you have a back boiler fitted and this is sapping all the heat. Most likely cause imo is a misplaced baffle allowing too much heat straight up chimney. James
  7. muttley9050
    Yeah good point, i live with a couple of germans and from the sound of it there stoves seem to be a little more advanced than ours, alot more gassification and thermal mass, but do you really think that these sweeps are servicing these appliances too? The only gassification boiler we have is by far the easiest to sweep and we service this boiler monthly and clean weekly.
  8. muttley9050
    This is very true, in several other countries too. In u.k. profession is unregulated and the only way to see if a sweep is good is wether hes a member of the guild of master chimney sweeps. Ive swept countless chimneys and flues in my time, and no disrespect to trained sweeps, but im glad its unregulated and i can sweep my own chimneys. Its hardly rocket science.
  9. muttley9050
    When you give your stove a good blasting the creosotes will heat up and run back down the flue into the stove,hence the reason that flues should always be socketed with the male on top of the female. I have seen this done the wrong way and creosotes then run down the outside of the flue. This leaves behind the clinker, which is far less volatile but causes the blockages. Your never going to leave your flue clean when you sweep it but you will leave it open with a good draw, reducing blockages and critically flue temperature. Its also important that you use a recognised flue product with a smooth inner wall as the clinker will fall off this far easier than the cheaper corrugated stuff.
  10. muttley9050
    The problems occur when successive layers of these volatiles build up, They reduce the draw on the flue which increases flue temperature, if oxygen levels are high enough then this will catch fire and can burn at an intense temperature. Easy ways to avoid fires like this is to burn hot and fast,keeping plenty of air and heat so all fuel can be burnt, this is why gassification boilers are so efficient, they burn hot and fast burning all fuel including vapors. This method of burning is not ideal however in most domestic stoves, so its better to sweep your chimneys at least once a year, a far favorable option than burning your house down or giving yourself carbon monoxide poisoning.
  11. muttley9050
    Ive also been looking at hudson 230+236mill and would be interested if anybody has an opinion on them.
  12. muttley9050
    Top work mate, but how do u manage to get rid of so many stoppers and dibbers?. I struggle to shift things i make like that.
  13. muttley9050
    Im sure the correct answer is minimum twice a year(thats what the fire brigade would sayto avoid chimney fires). But in reality it much depends how you use fire. I live in a house with probably 20 stoves and one gassification boiler. I think the boiler could go 5 years and be ok,but still we sweep once a yearin the autumn before first burn of season. Some of the fires in house need sweeping 3 times to keep clear. If you leave your stove open alot and dont shut it down once a year is fine, one stove in our place is lit constantly but nearly always shutdown on tickover, this needs sweeping 3 times. Buy some brushes and sweep yourself,in the long run its cheaper, u will get a feel for how much junk comes out when you do. James
  14. muttley9050
    yeah i see your point, you get public liability, insure your equipment and anything else would just be personal accident cover incase you cut your arm off:biggrin:
  15. muttley9050
    Thanks people, john clegg is a great site. just what i needed.
  16. muttley9050
    Thanks again Alec, I have chainsaw maintenance sorted ithink. Very good with two strokes, can sharpen and tension a chain, know what to look at in bar condition and checking oil, airfilter etc. The place i live has a 100kw biomass boiler for heating and water, this is filled with logs. Quite used to cutting rings for splitting safely, but thats as far as it gos. Bro inlaw was full time climber but now due to knee probs works for city council as a highways tree inspector and works part time as a woodland consultant. Still climbs on weekends for private jobs sometimes.He can help me alot, so i guess i need to look into insurance and see what that turns up. Imthinking informal if insurers dont object, but i only need to insure myself onmy own land, so surely insurance is not compulsory merely there for peace of mind?
  17. muttley9050
    Cloud memory is available on all android devices too. Open source is the way forward, theres a whole list of things you can do free on android thanks to a bunch of hacks programming in there free time, that apple wont let you go near or will charge the earth . The only benefit i can see on an apple is slightly higher screen resolution, but if anyone can spot that with there eyes alone i'd be surprised. And as for itunes thats another joke. Its not that i wont spend the money, its just theres no point in spending it.
  18. muttley9050
    Completely out of price range specified, and if you ask me, not worth the extra money to be stuck with apples superiority complex. Handset is overpriced, apps are overpriced and over censored. Android is open source so far cheaper apps, with wider availability, 85% is free. Samsung handsets compete well with apples and have many advantages, removeable battery so you can carry a spare or replace once buggered, expandable flash memory( can insert sd card to obtain more storage for pics,vids,miusic, data etc) But the best advantage is they are usually less than half the price of apples. People will always have differing opinions but for me samsung is the way and apple is a world i wish to leave well alone.
  19. muttley9050
    Thanks for your contribution Jonathon, much appreciated. when u say a small bandsawmill what sort of size would you recommend. Also as a novice with a chainsaw(chopped tons of firewood and a little alaskan milling) what sort of tickets should i look at getting,for safety. I wont be felling any big trees but will be doing everything else to them except the dropping. Theres a course near me for chainsaw competent operator, that teaches the basics. Do you think this is enough? Thanks again James
  20. muttley9050
    smart phone gets my vote, essentially a tablet is just a big smartphone. once youv'e got the hang of them you can do all you need to. get a large display model like samsung galaxy s or htc desire and you'll be fine, cant you just upgrade your mobile contract?
  21. muttley9050
    Click on the paper clip and browse for your photo.
  22. muttley9050
    stihl 12" grinder, various smaller grinders, cordless drills etc, corded drills etc, chop saw,table saw, ppe(cheaper than yours), digger, dumper, big mixer,small mixer, whacker plate,plaster mixing paddle, copious amounts of scaffolding and stageing Van,trailer, loads of hand tools and the list goes on. Of course some can be hired when needed but better to own your own. Only one of these i dont own and regularly hired is a dumper, but then i do have 3 wheel barrows. The scurge of the general jobbing builder, too many trades. Ever see how much money insurance companies want for people who remove supporting walls in million pound houses.
  23. muttley9050
    Thanks rob, i thought that the peterson would give me another string to my bow, in that i could then mill for others, also i know a number of tree surgeons who get nice trees in backyards, i could buy the butts and thought a peterson would enable me to get in them easier. I have done a little alaskan milling, but thought it would be too slow to think of in the long term. Everyone seems to prefer bandsaw mills but what about extra blade costs etc. Do you think this is eliminated by the extra kerf lost. Given your time again would you buy a bandsaw instead, maybe you have both, what do you use the most? Its certainly easier to buy a secondhand bandsaw mill than a peterson. Petersons just look better to me, but will have to take advice from the experienced. thanks
  24. muttley9050
    This is really great advice,thanks to all that are helping me.
  25. muttley9050
    Beautiful work people,lovely to see.

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