muttley9050

Thx, Im tending to agree with worcs, shes coming to stay for a while anyway, question is really if we let her climb uninsured, shes more than happy too, The only gain is the fact we will get some work done. I suppose looking in another way, as a large housing co-op, we regularly have friends/relatives staying, with free board and food etc, would it not be the case that any help they give us, being feeding animals, chopping logs with an axe etc would be requiring e.l. as much as a climber on the same basis, albeit a little less dangerous?

Thanks, would the case be that we need E.L. if she was insured or not, or if she was insured would that be enough. E.g. It may be that were better off insuring her for a fortnight rather that taking a e.l. policy out?

KInda assumed shed need to do that, as i dont know details of her quals or experience, is this not the case?

Got about 8 acres of wood where i live, in need of the attention of a climber. Someone one of my housemates knows has offered to come stay for a couple of weeks and do some work in exchange for bed+board etc. Trouble is shes got no insurance as shes currently employed by the queen at windsor park. How much does p.l. insurance for a climber cost, is there the option of us insuring her for two weeks? People living here will be working as her groundy, but some work may be roadside. Thinking bout risking it as its too good a oppurtunity to turn down. Whats your thoughts on this. Dont think everybody here is up for it and our p.l. only covers members of the co-op to operate machinery etc. Thx James

Look at this thread it explains it, theres a part two aswell you can search for. james http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/49497-quarter-sawing-using-alaskan-mini-mill-part-1-a.html

You got through and through right but your description of quarter sawn is also through and through really. Look at this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/41065-1-4-sawing.html Got a good pic in it to explain. James

Was advised by alec to look at this thread, and its great. Excellent work. Wondering if there was a chance to see a pic of walk in shower now its done. Thx James

Ive got some pics of one single unit i made in my livng room, only have communal kitchen,so its like a small kitchenette for tea etc. Im almost embarassed to post as it was made prior to owning a thicknesser, and using oak that had been very badly dried, warped and twisted, but will show you what can be achieved with very low grade timber. excuse pic quality please. I only found just enough of this dodgy oak in barn for visible bits, so inside is made from recycled formica from a wardrobe. Oak was so warped, i had no chance of jointing properly,so just went at it with a belt sander toget itas near as poss. Built the front as detailed earlier, screwed batons to wall and door frame, screwed boards on side from inside so not visible,belt sanded sides, did same with bottom. Madesimple doorrs, belt sanded flatish, easy way to make cupboard from badly miled/dried oak. Did my folks utility in similar way, but much nicer wood. Will get pics when im there next. Iwas trained as first and second fix construction carpenter, so knew basics of joinery. Taught myself the rest, Dont advocate this cupboard as joinery but most would have burnt the timber. I dont think itlooks too bad. Hinges and handles were cheapest available as i was skint at time. James

Top work mate, inspirational again, Do you not think theres a strength issue where the're so thin? still working on those pics for ya, not had a minute. Oh and they dont teach that rule anymore as its been proven tobe wrong more often than right. James

A chiropractor(recommended good one) can help in the short term but not in the long term prevention. Your 2 years olderthan me, soi can sympathise. Make sure you get a chiro recommended as someive seen are terrible.

Majority of back problems can be linked to posture as well as sudden injury, its great to work on core strength, but also i would recommend finding a specialist yoga class concentrating on lower back problems. This will help with strength but mostly help you work on better overall posture. I was a right sceptic myself,but now converted, nhs are starting to organise funding for this too as they now see it as good prevention. Its not a cure, but will make it less likely to happen again, fortunately for me i live with a yoga instructor who is trained for lower back classes. Probably wont be as easy for you, but in my mind well worth the effort. I also find it helpful towear a back support similar to a weightlifters when doing heavy work. James

Alec has given you some sound advice, Modern kitchen makers use loads of tools like the ones listed by woodland dweller, but lets not forget the old boys that could doall of it with handsaws, chisels. planes etc. If you want to make money at it then you need a lot of kit, but for you not so much, In my opinion things you cant do without. 1.Planer thicknesser. I have the same as alec dw733, but mine as a factory recon for about £340. Money welll spent. 2.Circular saw. Try and get 4" cut if you can. 3.Drill 4. orbital sander 5. powerful router(i have dewalt dw625 and love it.) 6. biscuit jointer. 7. Various hand tools. chisels, mallets,planes,saws, lots of clamps etc. Table saw would be good, routertable too, but not desperate. Kitchen design. Professional kitchen makers are gunna tell you you need paneled doors and structural cupboards, but imo you dont for yourself. Ive built a couple of small oak kitchens in the past and heres a few tips to make it easier. Doors can be simple and effective, no need for fancy joinery, ledged and braced with biscuit jointed panels can work just as well as paneled doors. Can even use t hinges instead ofconcealed hinges. somethinglike these would look great. JOB LOT OF FORGED IRON GOTHIC HINGES. 24 IN ALL PLUS SCREWS!! KITCHEN, FURNITURE | eBay Make good use of rear wall where possible to help you construct your units. Traditional kitchen dont take any real structural support from back wall, but imo the novice can use it to his advantage. Take it on small bits at a time, and dont try to conceal everything like a modern kitchen.If you struggle with some joint use others. Eg. Rails and legs should be morticed and tenoned, but can also be half housed, so you could take one run of units, cut top and bottom rails to length, mark out where all legs go half house rails in correct places, half house legs to suit, Glue and screw from behind and you have the front of one run of cupboards. Not strictly correct but more achievable than traditional joints. Remember this is the only part you can see without opening doors(except end panels), so if you use a few screw fixings to help you out where there not seen, who cares. My last piece ofadvice is think hard before putting wooden worktops around sink, they never stay looking good, if you can afford a small piece of granite around sink itwould be far better. These ideas will probably get slated by other joiners, but im also a trained carpenter, have all the tools i need, I also teach novices basic carpentry skills on weekend courses(also do a roofing course and an eco foundation course) i think its important onthese courses not to baffle people with tools needed, skills to learn but show what can be achieved with basic knowledge and tools. Sure your kitchen wont be as great when scrutinized as oneof woodland dweller, but you would need to look under cupboards or stick your head in them to notice this. Hope this helps. James

Ive a couple in the workshop, not sure there that big or of drive hole size, will measure up tomorrow and let you know. James

thx, these boards wont have tongues as self milled, could groove them and fit loose tongues, but biscuits look like the way forward, make them slightly harder to secret screw, will have an experiment on some scrap. Thx James

Thx worcs ill look it up.

Never attempted secret screwing, but guess its an option. How did you find it, guess you have to keep angle pretty shallow to ensure the head is lost? My boards will never need removng as room is above cellar with full access to joist space. Tahnks for your input. James

My nearest is Joe turner, spoken to them and will be placing order soon, been watching a well used one, sold for £1570+ vat. Madness. definately be getting a shiny one. Thx James

Agreed, but been to 3 farm sales now and nothing, another on sat but no weights in catalogue. Thinking about casting my own out of scrap lead, but that would cost me. Thx James

After some tractor weights for my hinomoto compact, like rocking horse poo. Any one got any they could part with? Thx James

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FC-BEC-InfoSheet-Wood-as-Fuel-TechSupp.pdf/$file/FC-BEC-InfoSheet-Wood-as-Fuel-TechSupp.pdf THink this is what your after, but remember softwood generally has a much higher calorific value but also youd be usng alot more volume in a tonne of soft wood compared to hard, so hard to say what is best wood. Purely on calorific value probably larch, but be prepared to load up fire alot and buy it by weight and not volume. Try to get away from btu(british thermal unit) and use kw/h(kilowatt hour) much more universal these days, 1 kw/h = 3412 btus Hope this helps JAmes

To be honest,ive never looked at reviews before, just read and yes there not great. Ive had a set of these for probably 5 years, fitted countless thresholds, loads of skirting jobs and more. I can honestly say ive never had a problem with them. Sharpened plug cutters couple of times but would expect to. My only complaint is that the diggers dont give you quite enough length of plug, about 5 or 6mm. They are quick as diggers drill, coutersink and bore for plug in one go. And as for complaints that the cutters skate about, i merely start the cut at a slight angle, drill on high speed and get perfect plugs. The quality of the ones you linked to doeslook good though, but also cost 3 times as much. When im richer i may treatmyself to a set of japanese ones. Thx JAmes

£30k, im guessing you get the skidsteer and the operator with it? Thanks guys put me right off now! James

Id say paduak too. Beautiful table, wouldnt fancy being their removal men!

Thanks mlarge, have already spoken to your team over the phone.

Permitted development is no myth, and fortunately for you there is no minimum area of land for permitted development in woodland only agricultural. Your much better off telling the council what your doing and not asking. Always send your letters registered post, so you have proof they recieved it, and yes no reply in 28 days means you can go ahead. You catorgorically do not need planning permission but most planners dont understand that. Simon fairlie of the land magazine(formerly chapter 7) is the man to talk to. Heres a link to an article he has written on just this subject. A Welcome Permissiveness within our Forests Hope you get on ok. Be firm and read the legislation. Imo there is no need for a land agent. Heres another link from a mp trying to get this legislation changed. Makes interesting reading to. House of Commons Hansard Debates for 12 Oct 2004 (pt 4) THis is from parliments website and in my mind is proof of legislation. If they try to stop you explain that your permitted development will be a lot more pleasing to the eye than 2 shipping containers and a caravan, which they have no chance of stopping you install, unless of course your in a conservation area. Hope this helps James P.s. Make sure you start a thread showing yourbuild in progress and the finished article. Thanks