muttley9050

Permitted development is no myth, and fortunately for you there is no minimum area of land for permitted development in woodland only agricultural. Your much better off telling the council what your doing and not asking. Always send your letters registered post, so you have proof they recieved it, and yes no reply in 28 days means you can go ahead. You catorgorically do not need planning permission but most planners dont understand that. Simon fairlie of the land magazine(formerly chapter 7) is the man to talk to. Heres a link to an article he has written on just this subject. A Welcome Permissiveness within our Forests Hope you get on ok. Be firm and read the legislation. Imo there is no need for a land agent. Heres another link from a mp trying to get this legislation changed. Makes interesting reading to. House of Commons Hansard Debates for 12 Oct 2004 (pt 4) THis is from parliments website and in my mind is proof of legislation. If they try to stop you explain that your permitted development will be a lot more pleasing to the eye than 2 shipping containers and a caravan, which they have no chance of stopping you install, unless of course your in a conservation area. Hope this helps James P.s. Make sure you start a thread showing yourbuild in progress and the finished article. Thanks

Anyone seen or used these, or know of their UK availability. Looks like it could be the one for me. Doesnt even leave his cab. James !

Id stuipdly forgot to allow for shrinkage. Good job i posted. Regards plugging, i have a stock of oak cross grain pellets, if these match in colour i would plug with them, if not id use a plug cutter and digger like this Disston Screwdiggers & Plug Cutters Set 4Pcs | Screwfix.com That way your plug and whole are perfectly matched. Thanks for the advice. James

Thanks for the reply alec. Was gunna make a ladder type structure out of 6x2 and fix to trusses. Lay boards on this and sticker up. Kinda thought this would be a good plan as i always have bits im wanting to dry and it would be out the way, Hadnt consdered heat but thought with it being so open it wouldnt be too much of a problem, Regards laying/fixing: Layed alotof floors in my time with different methods, problem with screwing is its pretty ugly imo, was toying between two methods in my head, I have floor board clamps and enough clamps to take twists out. 1. Standard lay, no tongues, fix with flooring brads. 2. Lay first board, biscuit joint nextboard to it, and from then on secret nail(pilot drill and pin through side) biscuit joint and continue. Might be easier to have 25mm boards for method 2. This is slow method but looks excellent when finshed. Could always screw and plug with cross grain pellets but this is also slow. On your boards you planed 7mm off. Was this with bandsaw. Thought with lucas i could get it in 4mm. 3mm off face and 1mm off underside. Maybe this is a little ambitious. Do u think drying on blocks covered in a tarp is easier? James

HI guys, Taking a large dying oak down before the timber is useless, and it keeps dropping limbs on our stock fence. We need to refloor one of our rooms and also mill some window sill blanks as we have many a rotting sill. Im confident drying the sill blanks, but have never tried to air dry flooring, so thought id post my plans and see what you thought. Got a guy coming with a lucas, gunna mill the flooring to 22mm x 130mm aiming to plane to 18x125mm when dried. Going to stack in the roof space of barn(see pic) Will rack between two of trusses with 6X2 and stack on rack with stickers, i will then stack all the sill blanks on top(150x75mm) to weigh it down. Leave there for 18months, then plane and joint to size, take inside, leave for 3 months,then install. Does this seem like the right process and enough tolerance to plane etc. Thanks for advice. James

Trying to reply to your message but your full mate.

im interested in prices too please, also are they 2 or 3 seaters, thx James

Dont know where you are in the coutry, but consider one of these, had one very similar on my old pickup. Welded an extra couple of hasps and staples on mine for extra security. Can be bolted to garage floor, and secondhand sell for well under your budget. VAN VAULT SITE SAFE STORAGE BOX TOOLS EQUIPMENT BUILDING GARDEN TACK SECURITY | eBay James

Thought id post this link as plenty of interest in fitting stoves in tents, Cheaper flue flashings are available, but this guys are really good quality and simple to fit. Come well recommended from me, scroll to bottom for his canvas flashings Flue Flashings | Windy Smithy ive never used his bell tent flashing but his yurt flashing can be used on any canvas tent roof. James

I like sprocket, reminds me of fraggle rock .

woody, sawyer, loppy, hazel, sap the spaniel,feller, cant think of any more puns right now:001_smile:

These tents look good, but personally much prefer canvas tents, although they are heavier, I would feel much happier fitting a stove to a canvas tent too. Let me know if you get stuck fitting your stove and i'll post the link to the piece of kit you need. James

The canvas of a geodesic dome is quite complicated if you want it to be tight and fit snug, the more common way to cover them is just to use lengths of canvas,start at the bottom and continue up leaving a good overlap, ive seen massive domes covered in this way. Fleece or blankets can be laid over the frame first for insulation, then the canvas is simply tied to frame. The beauty of yurts and domes in my mind is the pure beauty of the frame, and secondly the fact that there totally self supporting, so can be erected on any flattish ground. A dome is a truly achievable self build tent and as such can be done very cheaply. They can even be covered with a large plastic type flysheet. When we build them we dont even peel the poles, just point the ends to fit the water pipe snugly and ensure any side branch stumps are flat to pole to avoid damaging canvas. Heres a picture of the tents we have permanently erected where i live, sometimes we have others two but these stay up most of the time. 1 6m tipi, 1 5m yurt and 1 large and 1 small canvas cabin. James

Looks nice rowan, i know you can get a small hakki processor for around £5000 too, but the problem i have is I only have a small tractor. 15hp pto would run it fine, but question if it could lift it. Im still trying to buy woodland at moment, so just forward planning at mo, my plan i think will be a hakki pilke eagle, which i will also fit engine to, and eventually get a hakki 25 carry, if i can find a big enough market to sell to etc. Thanks for your input, out of interest, do you know the uk dealer for that machine. James

Im quite lucky where i live, loads going on, we have a yurt building shelter, with a steam bender and all necessary formers etc, my mate uses it for the ones he sells,hes slightly concerned about where he'll get his coppice from with the ash die back. If i lived in a tent it would be a yurt. aewsome structures, easy to insulate, easy to join. Done a fair few yurt floors in my time too. One on the side of huge hill looked awesome when it was up. some other thoughts on practicalities of big tipis, a large tipi is really a two strong man lift, u also need a huge stepladder to fit a rain catcher. Dont under estimate the weight alone of the canvas, i cant carry one far and im pretty strong. If the canvas gets wet you aint moving it on your own, where are you gunna hang the canvas to dry when wet to stop it rotting, its huge, there hard to put up on muddy ground or even damp grass without the canvas turning green or brown and looking rubbish.Big tarps and lots of care needed. Reckon the largest easily manageable tipi for one strong man is 5.5m. Not trying to put you off, but there is in my opinion better options. I intend to build myself a yurt at some point soon, but wouldnt really know where to start with the canvas, but i know someone who does:thumbup1:

Yurts are my favourite too, but if he was shocked at the price of a tipi,didnt seem worth mentioning them!!

Easy to do on android. just get tubemate app and download away. Not available on market, have to download from browser.

Bell tents are cool too, but dont always have enough headroom for me. Geodesic domes also ace, easy to make out of hazel etc coppice and water pipe. canvas is simple, burners are able to be fitted to any real canvas tent.

Guy i live with makes and sells tipis.(worldtents.co.uk.) Heres my opinion, Majority of cost is in canvas, but if this is well looked after can last years. Sail maker will be able to make one,but its not that simple and different seams are required, my missus is a seamstress for his company. Most people assume there round but there not there a teardrop shape. This makes the pattern quite complicated. Poles are essentially peeled spruce, and for a big tipi can be 9m+long. Do a fair few tipi erections and decking floors with removable firepit in center for his company. Nice jobs. usually schools, Anyway tipi patterns are much more complicated than youd think, and use alotof canvas and a big room to work out pattern in. Im sure if you spoke to him he'd give you a price for canvas only and you supply your own poles and specify length. But remeber always have totake massive poles with you and is not super quick to erect. need tobe pretty strong to lift the lifting pole with all canvas attatched. My opinion is youd be better with a canvas cabin. Check his site for pics. U can have a stove, raised beds, storage under beds, flatpack design, easy to move on standard roofrack, and cosy. Ask ifyou want further details on making your own, much mmore achievable with canvas cabin if you have basic carpentry skills and seemstress with industrial machine to sew canvas,pattern is simple. Nice tents. Thats what id buy/make. Hope this helps. James P.s. far more common to have open fire in tipi than stove, pps. Tipis werent designed for this climate. and dont bode well in heavy rain without rain catchers and canvas lining.

I bet it was mate, probably coz you werent concerned in anyway about emptying your wallet and were free to be creative with waste. Like it alot and the old tin on top will be the reused icing on the cake. Just spent about £3000 on our shed pictured above, but we did need it to hold 100+ tonne(reckon now its built it holds 150,3 years supply), reckon your outlay was about 0.6% of ours, so fairplay.

Fit alot of kitchens and cheapest place by far to get worktop is ikea, pragel range 2460mmx 620mmx38mm £35. Pretty good stuff too comes with all ends finished and extra end strip for cuts. also do it in 1860 for £30 . Wish you luck on finding secondhand. My workbench top is chipboard flooring. had a load left over from big renovation but worktop is far more hardwearing. Need some non-slip mats for working on it though. Wouldnt use larch or cedar(says me with chipboard), elm would be great but a waste. Hope this helps. James

Nice looking pallet shed normandy, good to see it finished. Just a note on the felt, Looks, from what i can see, like breathable membrane. If it is this is, not u.v. stable so dont expect it to hold water out for much more than a season. James

:thumbup:Thanks Mate:thumbup:

Hi steve, i cant open the last page(6) of "am i selling myself short", and consequently my post, just keeps opening page 5. Just thought id let you know. Thx James

A few threads ive read here seem to compare wages with construction. Now im not in arb work,but consider myself a woodsman in the making. I trained as a bricklayer and after a carpenter, dislike the industry so getting out of it now. After a year of training to be a brickie i would not call myself a briclayer id call myself an improver and would probably lay less than half the bricks as the others on the team. I laboured for 3 years before starting training, so understood job well, and for first 2 years of apprenticeship i got to work 1.5 hours before everyone else so i could load out bricks, nock up muck etc, so i had time to learn. Iwas also always the last on site. And all this for £60 a day Self employed on cis(12 years ago) My wages went up slowly with my speed and skills, but speed and skills take time to learn, and we were in a massive building boom when i trained. F.w.i.w. i think ushould ask for a small rise but dont expect the earth, your young and learning, and in a few years youll be earning well. I would pay an improver now £60-70(they dont need saws and expensive ppe, maybe £150 a year on basic gear). So im guesing for you about 70-80. and remember you are an improver and not experienced enough to call yourself "a climber". Thx James