muttley9050

i tip my lucas blades my self, id be interested to look at where your getting teeth from as lucas charge about £3 each for them. the Lucas jig is a rip off so i made my own , i had a bit of help in the technique from john hughes(thanks john your a star) and would be happy to help you now i have it sussed. i have a big free standing vice and made a simple jig to fit in it. i use oxy propane and silver solder to fix the teeth. the first blade i did all the teeth popped straight off when i used it:lol:, but heres a description of what i do now i know better. i made a jig using a snug fitting socket to fit the arbor this had a bit of threaded rod welded to it and a larger socket goes over the small one then a washer then a nut to hold the blade tight. i then welded bits of box section on to this and used a blade with good teeth to set the angle of the rest for the new teeth. this jig doesnt set the tooth in place, it only sets the angle. i posistion the teeth by eye, which may mean the kerf is marginally wider but the retipped blades cut as good as a brand new one and .5mm on the kerf doesnt bother me. so to retip i first heat up the tip area to just barely glowing remove broken tooth and use a wire brush to clean off solder. Then i take a file and gently file the tooth pocket till its bright and clean. set the blade up in the jig and position the tooth. i use a bungee cord on the blade to pull the blade down onto the tooth as the tips i buy from lucas are pre tinned on the back. using oxy propane i heat the blade untill just starting to glow then gently move the heat down to the tip and back up to the blade and down etc until i see the solder run. then i add more solder until all looks good and then use the torch to cool the blade down slowly. not just remove heat straight away. then clean any excess solder off with a file. fit blade to saw and use mini grinder to sharpen. I have tested some of the tipped blades with a jig and calipers and they are within 0.25mm of perfect. takes me about an hour to fit and sharpen 5 tips. i hope this makes some sense and helps you. if you need more info let me know. James

Yeah i was thinking a sliding carriage would be good, got to do quite a large oak floor and thought it would be nice to t and g the end grain to save on offcuts. If it stays cheap ill be tempted though

Evening, any thoughts on this one? SCM T110 Spindle Moulder | eBay Any advice on how hard it might be to chnge the bearing would be greatfully recieved also. Thanks James

went om the axminster 1 day course in sittingboune on tuesday. It was good. I feel i learnt enough to jump in and learn the rest through experience. made a panel door and messed around with different cutters and how to set up machine, safety etc.

Might be interested if anythings great, what you got? Pics?

Looks OK and free, low grade oak I find more useful than much else. The most important thing is practicing with the lucas so that when you get a decent stick your ready for it.

Cheap way is hollow blocks, steel and concrete. Problem is you can't put a decent steel structure in them. Stronger is two 9" skins, 100mm dense concretes laid on backs. 3" cavity with ties. Put your steel work in before building second skin and fix it to cavity ties. When finished wait 3 days and concrete cavity. That won't move, just hope you don't need to demolish it one day. Can reduce thickness of the two skins if you want. And make sure you close the cavity properly on the ends.

Hard to design a wall when you don't know what it's for. If it's a retainer, 100mm dense concrete laid on there backs Is good to about 4ft. Cavity is pointless in a retainer make it solid and strong. More info please

I don't really use any t and c. If it's contract milling then experience comes in as to how to get the cutting list out of the tree in the best way, but essentially it's there tree and I will always advise if I think it's good enough for there intended job. If your supplying sawn timber, you need to make sure it's a good enough grade for the intended purpose. All that said when you walk away and the timber Is left with them, if they don't store it properly all of it goes out the window. As mentioned before you should always try to leave a happy customer and if there not happy then try to make them happy.

Found them on line for £14, it's a mitsubishi made part, doesn't surprise me that ford are making a tidy £100 on them.

Thanks for that, after scouring the Web. I believe it's called a fsic valve, and does indeed control front diff. Managed to put a temporary repair on the broken one until I can find a new one. Thanks James

Nearly finished fitting new clutch in my ranger 05 and my dad managed to snap a little plastic pipe spigot. Looks like some sort of vacuum. Located right next to brake fluid bottle. If anyone can help identify it and what it does would be a great help. Thanks a lot.

Don't think there's a rush, she just wants to not log it. If you pm your email to me I'll forward it to her and you can discuss. If necessary I can lend you my jet barrow and you might make it in a day.

Look OK to me. I like the multiple tie down points, but the jockey wheel looks a little naff.

That's some nice looking yew.

So take a wheel barrow. No need to extract the timber

I might be tempted in good oak. How much in weight do you roughly have,, is access for truck ok. Any chance of pics and sizes. Thanks. James.

I'd be tempted if it were closer. 100yds from her drive but no access for anything other than a wheel barrow. 2 butt's ready to cut and 1 needs rolling a little. She asked me how much she should expect to pay I said £350+ depending on cutting list. Don't get what's not tempting about it. Except it's in Conwy. Never mind will have to tell her it's fire wood.

No takers?

Evening. Been offered a saw milling job in Conwy. It's to far for me. 3 ash butts all 2ft and average of 9ft long. Bad access, alaskan only, one butt needs winching /rolling away from a stump. If anyone wants a recommendation put contact details here or pm me. James

As Steve suggests, cross cut at root ball, and at first branch . Asses quality of timber. If OK I would offer up to £200 but would start at £100. This is assuming I can leave saw dust where it is and doesn't need cleaning up. If so offer less. Expect lots of insect attack in sap wood and a little in heart wood. I have similar equipment to you, and If it were me I would quarter saw with your lucas with the circular blade. This will give you a stable product and allow you to cut around defects as they appear. You could take one or two slabs from the center if you wanted. But if you slab it all its lightly to move a lot. Depending on your ability you could offer a simple bench /table in return for the tree. I could quarter saw that stick and make a simple table in a day. Take a helper to pull the boards off As you cut them. That's my thoughts for you anyway.

I could do 2'6"x2" in olive ash. There waney at the moment but I'm guessing they will be around the 2'6 mark when squared up. Where are you based?

Why did you have to post that, it's only up the road from me and i have a real addiction to buying broken old rubbish.

Most builders /landscapers etc are exempt because they sell service not a product. Eg, builder uses landrover and trailer to take digger to work for him to use. Job 101km away. No tacho needed. Log seller uses landy and trailer to deliver logs 1 km away. Logs are including in driving for hire or reward so tacho needed, unless you can blag forestry exemption. That's my understanding anyway. In my case, I use trailer to collect a saw log for my ow use. No tacho needed. I use trailer to collect saw log fir someone else and get paid for it. Tacho needed. Except of course that they were definitely for my use weren't they. That's a good blag if your heading in the right direction anyway.

I find accounts pretty simple myself, once you know what your allowed to claim for, it's pretty similar each year.