muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Looks nice John, hope they stay flat for you.
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Sounds to me like you need a Lucas!
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heres a picture of the front of the house to give you an idea of the scale of the place. its a lovely house and i want to get the sills right.
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I do have a thicknesser, and I can understand where your coming from, but the cill I have to reproduce is from old school sliding sash and they have a raised level for the staff bead to fix to, then a level flush with the angle that the sash closes against, then the angle, so don't think it would work. I'll upload a photo of the cill section tomorrow to make it clearer, there's about 200 windows in this place to sort so figure it's easier to get the sills right than adjust every window to suit. Although I could plant the top level on. I may be interested in your machine at around 1500. Will it come with any tooling?
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So what will you be wanting for yours John? Thanks
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Thanks. So it seems unanimous that old and heavy is best. On these modern machines it seems that all the spindles tilt through - 10 to 40degrees or so. This means you need less variety of tooling I guess. Is it pretty standard that on these old heavy machines that the spindle is always fixed as I never see a mention of tilting?
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Out of interest, what us a ring fence, and what does it allow you to do? Thanks
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Excellent, so hopefully by the time I've bought the moulder, done a one day course, made and laid the floor I milled at the same time, then hopefully they will be dry enough. Knowing the amount of time I have to do stuff at home this is likely to be a while anyway. Thanks for all the advice.
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Top work, is it yours?
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Thanks. Do have 3 phase on site, but not in my workshop, I could Re route it quite easily. Problem is the entrance to my workshop is not great, a 1m wide door, round a corner, up a step, so not sure how I'd get a big cast thing In. Kind of assumed the modern ones would be safer with better guarding etc? There's this one on the eBay at the moment which is tempting depending on hammer price. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/311314339596
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I was hoping I could get away with a higher mc as 70% will be outside, Might have to build a small kiln but was hoping mo to have to, what would be an approx kilning time for 4.5"?
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Good job Steve. PM me your address and that lump of Holm oak I promised you last year will be in the post on me for being so forgetful.
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Guessing how big it looks, I Reckon it's worth £20-40 if you can get it out of a wood turner.
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As per my other thread, I have 200 linear M of oak window sill to make for sash windows where I live. Obviously when finished they will be half inside and half out. What are people's thoughts on how low a moisture content I need in the timber before starting to mould the sills. The blanks were milled to about 7.5"x4.5" around 3 years ago. Thoughts appreciated. Thanks James
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Afternoon. I have around 150-200 linear M of oak window sills to make.. The blanks have been milled for 3 years in 7"x4.5" beams. I'm going to need a spindle moulder to do it. I've never used one before, but am quite adept with a router table. I also have a load of oak to turn into flooring so a spindle would be Good too. I'm looking at a machine like the Axminster ws1000ta. Any thoughts on if this is a suitable machine. Axminster also do a one day course on the use of it so it seems like a good option. But I'm wondering if it will be big enough to do what I need it to do. I'm avoiding a big old cast machine as it will be too hard to get it In my workshop. Any thoughts grate fully recieved. Thanks James
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I'll not be milling next week but got 3 days the week after though. All Oak, 2 of those days are at Roehampton university. Will be cutting mostly with the lucas though an only taking a I few slabs off with the alaskan. As much as I hate London it does give me an excuse to crash at an old mates house and catch up. Cheaper than a b and d b too.
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Top work, kids are gonna love that, my boy is minion crazy.
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Just as bad to steam for too long as not long enough. Try about 20mins for the small bits and 40 for the bigger. I've always had good results with hazel and ash. Never tried steaming willow, only bending by hand for baskets.
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Never had a problem with my 05 either. I would of thought problems arise when people try to engage 4wd whilst moving without the rfw already locked.
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No gold, but my 5 year old wanted to detect in our woods, so we did once for 10 mins, we found a shotgun shell, an old style ring pull and an old belt buckle. The first and probably last time I will detect anything except a log. I always think of trigger happy TV where the guy on the beach finds the big tw?* sign they planted. Classic
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To build a barn from oak or larch, or bit of both?
muttley9050 replied to SteveA's topic in General chat
Here's one o just finished from cedar, more of a glorified shed than a barn. It's finished now, I will g et some pics of the finished product and post.
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I started a thread on this subject some time ago. In it I was recommended a cscope cs4pi. I found one second hand on eBay for £160, not cheap but works a treat. Takes a little getting used to, but I fan now detect metal at about 12" deep. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=70090
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Don't do it, get an alaskan, they are slightly more expensive because they are better. I wouldn't be too concerned with getting a vertical mill to start with either. Get the standard alaskan and as you get into it more buy the mini mill. There's only a few things a mini mill can do that an alaskan can't, but it can save on handling.
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It depends on species, width of board etc, you need to allow 10% for shrinkage when drying, and a couple of mm a side for planing. Obviously a very wide cupped board is going to take a lot more planing than a narrower flat one.
