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muttley9050

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Everything posted by muttley9050

  1. Don't take it, buy one outright from argos or something, get an older model. Then go aim only contract. Will saveyou big bucks in the long term.
  2. Also, don't forget when your self employed you can claim allowances for laundry, a home office(if your not in council house) stationary, computer use, printer ink etc etc.
  3. Register by telling hmrc. Insurance, not entirely sure as I'm in a slightly different industry but hazard a guess that you only need public liability. Books are easy. Get a ledger, put everything you spend in one column and everything you take in another. One column is turnover the other expenses. Subtract one from other and you have your taxable income. You can claim vat back on everything you pay vat on if your vat registered. This means you then have to charge vat to people employing you. You need to think if it's worth it. If you are mainly subbing, it would make you an unattractive subbie, as you would have to be paid more. I keep my self under the vat.threshold, this can make me cheaper than my competitors but does mean I can't claim vat back on purchases. Hope this helps James
  4. I use a Samsung s3 mini, had mine two years and still going strong. Slightly bigger at 120mmx65mm. Can pick them up new for around £80. I'm really tough on my phone, but it takes it. Even dropped it in the water butt last week. Had to tip water butt over to get it out. Pulled battery out. Put it all on blowers in truck for 5 mins, and still working good as gold. My contract cost me £10 a month. Cheap connectivity all round.
  5. As requested here's some pics of my ranger. It's an 05, bought it around 18 months ago with about 80k on the clock. Cost me 4k. Came with a truckman, but I never use it and should probably sell it. Please excuse the mess inside, it's been a long week. I can fit my Lucas mill and all I need for a days milling plus a helper in/on it. That was my main parameter when choosing a truck. You wouldn't get it all on a double cab.
  6. Yeah no problem, I'll snap one or two tomorrow and upload it.
  7. Good luck with the recovery and stay as positive as you are, that's what will help you the most.
  8. I've not had a problem with my insurance, cost me around £300 a year. Didn't really notice them being more expensive than double cabs when I bought it either. But I didn't actually look at double cabs. My handbook tells me I can put roof bars on it. Can't remember the limit. Something like 50kg per bar. I have two there bars on there and a fabricated bar at the back of the buck. Always carrying lumber around so roof bars a must for me.
  9. I stand corrected. I never new you could get a machine that could plane that wide. Let alone 4 sides at once. Can see everything on the description except the price? Can't be a busting lot of use for a machine like that in the average joinery shop. That said, I want one. Never seen a 4 sider in action, and can never really get me head round how they manage to line everything up no matter what width your working with. As much as I want one of them I think the lucas planer head would take a little less space In my workshop. Think I might get myself it for crimbo this year. Anyone ever actually seen a Lucas planer in action?
  10. I have a ranger super cab and I love it, kids love it in the back, adults for half hour or so is fine. The back of mine is usually full of tools and spare clothes etc. Slightly smaller back than a single cab but if you load a single cab right up where do you put all your stuff. I'm not a tree surgeon so do t run chip, most of the stuff I do carry, I can't fill the baxk right up anyway or I'll be overloaded.
  11. I've had no trouble oiling, but not used it to its capacity yet. I just use cheap 10/30 motor oil that I buy in a drum from costco.
  12. Slabber cuts sweet, a little slow but leaves a good enough finish. Remember to drop the rails an Extra 3mm for the extra kerf. It's easy to use but definitely use tape to hold chain on whole setting up. Incredibly tempted by the planer head. It's expensive for what it is. But what you can do with it is unmatched by other machines. Planes somewhere around 70" wide. That's a lot more than the biggest thicknesser out there. The sander head is a waste of time I reckon. Expensive and is it really better than a hand held orbital? It means you sand dead flat but if you plane your boards sanding flat is easy.
  13. I could come and cut it for you with my Lucas mill. If it's just that one stick it's half a day. So £200 to cut it plus 25p a mile to travel. I'm around 60 miles away so £30. I can either slab it or cut it into dimensional timber for you or a bit of both. Unless you have a really good place to stack it, I would recommend waiting till September to cut it to give it more chance to dry slowly. I couldn't come till mid April mind anyway. Feel free to PM me if you want to book something in. Cheers James
  14. we do roughly 50 tonne a year for personal use. We buy in two Arctic's for between 2.5and 3k. Then we spend 3 days processing the lot. Tomorrow will be the last day for this year processing 2016 wood. We know a chap with a small processor. He comes fir three days. Processor to transit, tipped in log shed and stacked. 750 to processor man. So two artic loads split and stacked in three days for around 3.5k. 3 very hard days but better than an easy 6 weeks. There's usually 1/2 a days work for the splitter with the gnarly bits at the end.
  15. One more question if you don't mind, when you have a block like the cill block you linked to, can you put that up either way or only one way. Cheers. James
  16. I've got to do a 46" beech on the 9th of April. That should be fun as he wants some 3"slabs off the middle of it to. Luckily he has a tractor with forks on site.
  17. I didn't, it sold for 1320 which is more than I've seen a lot of better ones go for. I've been convinced now to go old school heavy and struggle to get it in. Thanks very much for the offer John but I've so much work I could use one for that it's the logical next step to get my own. I will update this thread when I get one or if I see a second hand one I want opinions on. Thanks James
  18. The job is postponed as I reckon he's having health and safety nightmare, we're doing it on the 7th and 8th as it easter holidays as less students about. Means I'll be milling 4 days that week! Oh my poor back.
  19. Looks nice John, hope they stay flat for you.
  20. Sounds to me like you need a Lucas!
  21. heres a picture of the front of the house to give you an idea of the scale of the place. its a lovely house and i want to get the sills right.
  22. I do have a thicknesser, and I can understand where your coming from, but the cill I have to reproduce is from old school sliding sash and they have a raised level for the staff bead to fix to, then a level flush with the angle that the sash closes against, then the angle, so don't think it would work. I'll upload a photo of the cill section tomorrow to make it clearer, there's about 200 windows in this place to sort so figure it's easier to get the sills right than adjust every window to suit. Although I could plant the top level on. I may be interested in your machine at around 1500. Will it come with any tooling?
  23. So what will you be wanting for yours John? Thanks
  24. Thanks. So it seems unanimous that old and heavy is best. On these modern machines it seems that all the spindles tilt through - 10 to 40degrees or so. This means you need less variety of tooling I guess. Is it pretty standard that on these old heavy machines that the spindle is always fixed as I never see a mention of tilting?
  25. Out of interest, what us a ring fence, and what does it allow you to do? Thanks

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