spudulike

Much of the issue is sedentary life styles behind desks or steering wheels. I shed a stone in a few months after stopping being employed in a job that entailed driving and desk work. When I went from manufacturing and on my feet much of the day to a sales/desk/driving job, I stuck 2.5 stone on over 10 years. A couple of years working for myself, on my feet all day and those 2.5 stone came straight off with two stone rolling off in around 6 months. One key difference between fat people and thin people is that thin people will have a big meal one day and then have a smaller meal the next day and take a long walk/exercise etc. Fat/Obese people will most likely carry on eating and not take any exercise with the typical excuse that they can't walk any distance......really!! How about doing 100yds day 1, 150 day 2, 200 day 3 etc.......that's how it works! We regularly do 6-8 mile walks, 3 miles is a stroll in our household - we also walk fast to get the most benefit from it! We have to keep fit in these strange times!

Pop the top cover off the saw and we will be able to tell if the cylinder is OEM or cheap aftermarket. If it is aftermarket, the saw may not work as well as if it was original. Carbs are generally changed when dealers can't be arsed to pull them apart and make sure it is OK, unfortunately it leaves the customer with a £100 bill or a cheap aftermarket carb on the saw! The saw is a good saw. I had a 345 which is the same saw but smaller cylinder and it was a damn good small saw, I cut a load of wood for the burner with it and sold it on a few years ago and just seen it come up on ebay so a good saw.

And we hate them because when we clean them, they cover our workshop and tools in abrasive gritty dusty shyte that gets everywhere and is worse than greasy wood-chip by far.

Stone cutters and saws are different, that dust in stone cutters is highly abrasive so seals, main bearings and cylinders get knocked out pretty quickly if the filtration is not looked after. I hadn't thought about punching holes in the air filter with a compressor but can see that on this type of equipment, it would be best to do regular replacement of the filtration system rather than blasting it as we would do on a chainsaw. I once purchased three TS400s and all had crap seals, crap mains and just sold the lot on as it was not worth rebuilding them.....never looked at the cylinders!

I know two fit arb circa 35 yr old customers who got it and it stuffed them for a month + before they could do a days work, one other customer had a 50 yr old fit friend he lost to it. I liken it to Russian roulette, the young play with perhaps one bullet and the elderly with 4 bullets in a 6 chamber revolver. The latest variant seems to be taking out younger people and we don't know what the ongoing mutations will do. I think if I hear "it is like flu" again, I will scream!! The death rate just doesn't concur that at all.

When you fit the gasket set, take great care in getting the order of the gaskets correct. Also note that there is a spring under the needle arm that needs correct positioning, the arm may need adjusting to the correct height and any dirt or corrosion around the needle will need to be carefully cleared from the aperture the needle fits in to. L&S are good guys, one of the best suppliers as they hold vast stock, are relatively good value and good customer service. You have probably looked at an EFCO branded carb kit, most carbs are by Walbro, Zama and Tilllotson and their own carb kits are cheaper than the Efco kit then there are aftermarket kits that are cheaper still. Manufacturers tend to pretty much use the same diaphragms in a complete range of carbs, yours being the Walbro WT range. Probably less that the other companies are taking you but the original manufacturer marking up their parts to a ridiculous price! Easy to get caught out but less so if you live and breath the business on a daily basis! Hope you sort it, I have seen a bit of corrosion on needle valves before!

Pretty much my thoughts with the few exceptions I have found to be a semi leaking needle valve slightly flooding the engine and a coil/HT lead sparking in air but not under compression....it does happen believe me and the spark was at least 6mm long and blue on the tester! The rest is as you said!

The turbo nozzle goes a long way to balance low flow/pressure and the ability to clean stuff. For those that don't know what this means - basically the turbo nozzle delivers a very thin jet of pressurized water, this would normally allow you to only clean a small area but the turbo nozzle wobbles the jet all over the place so you get a powerful clean but don't need top pressure. All you need to do is find the right size jet and the correct fan movement for your application. This all falls flat if you use a block paving head with a weedy cleaner but that's life! 32l per minute...bloody hell, that would take barnacles off a hull, the paint and sacrificial anodes!!!!

Just wait till your neighbours are in the shower and turn the fecker on😉

I have to say that I read the list of things tried and came to the conclusion that it should work if all the info was correct. As ADW says, I have heard 100 psi being described as good compression! The needle valve may be stuck open on the carb or partially leaking or the spark may die under engine compression and YES, it goes happen as I found out recently on an 020t giving a spark across 6mm and nothing under compression.

I got one of the Nilfisk ones as they still use alloy for the motor and pump and read that Karcher had stopped doing this. It came with the turbo nozzle which is an awesome bit of kit plus the typical flat adjustable nozzle. I only use it for cleaning the drive and car washes so it is light domestic but it has been good for me.

Did the seller have a tricorn hat, twin flintlocks and refer to his horse as Black Bess? If not, he should!!! You need to look at the side of the carb and read off the numbers, I believe it will be a Walbro WT-780D. This makes a carb kit for a Walbro WT very likely to replace most of your parts needed. Something like this may work - N/G Carburettor Repair Kit (Walbro WA, WT Carburettors) - Replaces K20-WAT | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK N/G Carburettor Repair Kit (Walbro WA, WT Carburettors) Quality, Non-Genuine Part Replaces OEM No, K20-WAT, K11-WAT Suitable for the Following Applications: WA100...

A worn accelerator pump will cause an unstable idle and make the saw impossible to tune correctly. Symptoms are the idle rising for no reason to fast idle speed then dropping and rising so you can never get the L screw in tune. Keep an eye on it and if it happens again, just post about it and may have to try a few more options. S

Damn it, where is the Kleenex😉

I did warn you!!

But the MS200t stopped production in 2012. I guess your top end wasn't replaced so you are comparing a saw with a fair bit of wear with one with much less wear. I guess I will have to do a video test some time!

One thing bothers me with that saw...it has the 020 muffler. Now the 020 muffler is a very nice muffler, sort of dirt bike hollow noise and breaths very easily.....just take the flipping spark arrestor out of it....and grind a bigger hole........and so it starts! NICE

I guess I have to ask...Fully modified = ?? The MS200T probably has a top end that has seen a few years use, the TCM - 1-2 years! I recently did an 020, new top end, it pulls a 16" 1.6mm bar.....I would love to race that against any 201.

Is this a 020 carb or the later accelerator pump carb? You could also, in addition to the above, try 1.5 turns out on the L screw!

Take the side rubber grommet off the air filter box and when you rev it and release the throttle so it is racing, push the throttle end down so you are forcing it closed and if it is still racing, you have an air leak. I have seen bits of twig enter the carb adjustment holes causing fast idles before. If the above still allows the idle to race, most likely issues are the impulse line has come off under the air box or the inlet manifold is split. Getting the saw running and pushing down on the top handle with the saw on the ground will show if it is the inlet boot.

Take my advice and not get in to this one! Just take it as another opinion!

I have a mate in the business and he rates the MS194, I did the muffler mod on his but he really rates the saw. It runs the 1.1mm 1/4 inch chain from standard and therefore goes like a rabid MS150. I always laugh when guys race a "Ported" MS200 against the Mtronic MS201......what is "Ported"??? Let me tell you that a 6mm hole in the muffler isn't a ported saw in my eyes!!

Depends on your skill set and understanding of engineering. Replacing the parts is relatively simple and may just work, pressure testing carbs needs a Mityvac or similar or a pop off tester which are relatively specialist bits of kit. My advice - change the parts and see if it cures the issue then take it to a specialist.

Just done yet another 2511....well trodden path😉

Some of these Echos have a port that is formed 90 degrees from the exhaust outlet - the 2511 is the same....the port points downwards but the exhaust is on the side so it looks like it is partially blocked but isn't.