spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Loss of compression or a faulty ignition unit would be the biggest issues....loss of compression being the worst.
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Not sure I understand what you are saying but...... 1) The chain should not spin when the machine is idling, even with the brake off. 2) The chain should never spin with the chain brake on at any revs. You aren't related to Mendiplogs Jon are you?
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If it is off, change it. You may be able to squeeze another chain on it but why do that if the thing is off and worn!
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Have you checked the ring is loose in the groove? I had one once where the ring was a bit stuck. I just freed it up carefully and it was enough to make it run again.
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Replacing gorse with something else
spudulike replied to spandit's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I am recently back from two weeks at Winterton on Sea and we noted that the Gorse there was really suffering. We thought it may be the very dry and cold April, It all looked near dead, dry and brown but the broom looked much better. Seemed pretty widespread in that area....very strange. -
Difficult to say but would start looking at compression - guess you can't measure it so pop the muffler off and look at the piston. I would avoid using the decomp when starting it hot, that may help otherwise it may be fuel related so check the gauze strainer, pump diaphragm and metering arm height etc. Worth checking the tank breather as well, they do get blocked. I have found that you can often start these AT saws with no choke when hot so worth giving this a go.
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I had a similar issue during the hot summer three years ago and it killed much of my lawn and it was only a local guy who wanted his Mantis tiller serviced that sorted it. Dug it out, tilled the lawn and replanted it! The tiller was tested.....well tested! Stick a spade in it and see if the soil below the fungi is white with Mycelium. If it is, expect the grass to die if there is a hot dry period!!
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Submerging ur new saw in peat soup!! How to dry??
spudulike replied to drinksloe's topic in General chat
Don't judge others by your own infatuations Mr Chippyles, I just fix the dirty little feckers and wrench them out of the depths of fooked depravity! -
Had to read it three times!!!!
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Submerging ur new saw in peat soup!! How to dry??
spudulike replied to drinksloe's topic in General chat
Drain the fuel and oil, pull the plug, turn it upside down and pull it over lots of times, make sure the muffler has no water in it, refuel it and get the fecker running as quickly as possible as the water will rust all the bearings very quickly. Time is of the essence, get it going fast - try the redneck holding the throttle open and pulling with the left hand if it won't go. Run it until hot and allow to let the heat drive any moisture off. -
Just run the saw for a few seconds, stick the tester in the plug hole, don't use the decomp and pull the saw over once, look at the reading (should be 70psi+) pull it over 5-6 pulls more and expect a reading of 150-175psi on a decent saw. Lower than 150 and it isn't too good. On saws that haven't been used for a long time, the fuel in the bore can evaporate leaving a coating of oil that can create a better seal and more compression than the saw will normally have. A saw that has been apart and is dry, will drop compression from not having fuel oil mix around the rings. A saw that is hot will make around -20psi than a cold one! Lastly, make sure the gauge has a schrader valve in the brass union and is a very light pressure one as many cheap gauges are for cars and a small engine won't open the valve in these gauges enough.
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That rod looks like it has seen some heat. How did the previous cylinder and piston look? I reckon the big end was starting to spit its white metal cage out and it took the first cylinder out. I once had a 346 in like that with ....3 buggered cylinders and a buggered big end no one had noticed before it hit me. I am still am not sure about the cylinder as those big scores that look like this one can hemorrhage compression as it leaves a significant ring to cylinder gap in one area but would lightly hone it and give it a go as you have nothing to lose. You should have over 150psi compression and a saw difficult to pull over with the decomp valve pulled out. If you don't, it may get better with use but it may well cause an issue.
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Let us know how it goes, what you do and if it works or could have been done better.
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Looks like mycelium to me. Those dark green bits of grass will have a lot of organic matter in the soil, this goes white with the mycelium fungus, the soil stops taking in moisture and the grass dies. The only way of getting rid of it is to dig it out and replace the soil/grass. Try cutting in to the soil and see if it is white 1-3" down.
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I would also say that the first top end probably died after what I assume to be a big end failure and "the shop" just fitted a new top end without recognizing what had failed!
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Looks like it has pushed a smooth groove in to the cylinder. It may kill the compression if deep enough but it may be fine. Only way to tell is to get it back together again, do all the relevant checks and set up and see how it runs. Less likely to impact a big engine than a small one.
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Looks like the OP has pissed off in to the sunset!
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Yes but the OP said the chain stops rotating. Flywheel clag will just make the idle die in my experience!
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Sounds like the bar tip sprocket is failing or has been damaged. Best fit a new bar and chain and try that. Not sure what the "clogging up" bit is! I take it the oiler is functioning OK? Point the bar tip at a piece of clean wood and rev flat out, it should leave a line of fresh oil in 2-3 seconds.
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I have employed hundreds of workers over 20 years in manufacturing. I learnt to bin off young unreliable workers that typically lived with mum and dad, got pissed up at the weekend and didn't give a toss about the business. If a strong man to man chat has no effect then working bloody hard for a few weeks knowing you are by yourself or with a smaller team is often more palatable than putting trust in a time waster. My advice is to always have a few likely employees you keep in touch with so if your guy starts letting you down, you can bin them off and move on fast. On the other side, if you get a good one, spend time with them, give them bonuses for ideas, hard work, finishing jobs well, clean and early as employment cuts both ways!
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503 21 74-25 is the correct part no!
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Glad it worked out and looks like a fixed saw.
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Just caught up on this. The seals you use with the machine assembled are softer and will push passed the lipped surround. I had this on a 039 I believe, similar thing with two sets of seals for assembled or unassembled engines.
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Saws wanted pioneer p62,p61/Super pro125, 850 pro Mac
spudulike replied to BigBadger94's topic in Chainsaws
Was it just the 850 McCulloch you wanted? I have a 1-40 80cc and a later 100cc saw something like 595 but can't remember the model type. Both run and are in good nick. I may be parted from one or both but expect a good price for them otherwise I will keep them. PM me if interested!- 7 replies
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Here you go......
