spudulike

I think you may have diagnosed the fault.....try another spark plug!

I wasn't hinting but good call on a donation, hope someone takes it and gives it a good home.

I paid around £50 each for my 80 & 100cc old bangers so nope, not worth much at all but the enjoyment is getting an old saw like this, up and running as it should. My theory is old saws should be owned by people that can maintain them as work tends to take longer than on modern saws - points are fun, multimeter, and timing wheel is best as long as you have the correct ignition timing figure although the old macs had timing marks you can also use!

I would say you have one of two issues, either the piston has been nipped up - taking off the muffler and posting a pic will tell us straight away.... the piston should be smooth and grey with no score marks. The other issue may be fuel delivery - first thing to do is get a new fuel filter on the fuel line and then try the saw again. If it plays up, try giving the H screw 1/2 turn anticlockwise and see what effect it has. The saw will either go all boggy and struggle to rev out which is the normal effect or, which I suspect may happen, the saw will rev out as it should. Small saws often struggle to rev out when they are set lean, big saws over rev and start screaming...not always but often. If the 1/2 turn thing works, try turning it a bit more until the saw doesn't rev and then turn the H screw clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until the saw revs as it should but doesn't scream and has a slight "Burble" or "four stroking" as it is known when revved flat out. The other issue may be wood chip in the carb gauze strainer - typically under the alloy cover held on with a single large screw on most small saws - best to prize it out and look at it against bright light with a magnifying glass as you can get fine scum in the open areas that is hard to see. Pic "B" is a nipped or lightly seized piston and what you don't want to see - it typically happens on the hottest exhaust side of the cylinder so removing the muffler is usually the first thing to do.

There are unlikely to be any issues under this diaphragm on a 2 year old machine. More likely to be fine chip in the gauze strainer under the cover on the other side or on older machines, perforated pump flaps on the pump diaphragm. You don't mention what the issue is - always a good starting point. My advice, leave that diaphragm where it is for now unless you are replacing it but it looks OK.

From what I remember, these saws have a CAT and these take time to warm up before use. If it isn't playing ball, you can try a carb retune and richening the H&L screws may help. On an older one I would mod the muffler to bypass the CAT but on a spanking new machine....it should work so back to the dealer!

Difficult to see what will happen without pics but if his tree falls on to your property and causes damages then you can claim from his house insurance. The other responses sound like they think the tree is on your side and the law states that any overhanging branches and roots going across the boundary can be cut back by the neighbor to the boundary but if they kill the tree, you can sue for damages. In your case, if his tree falls either through his actions or through other reasons, you can sue the owner for damages to your property.

I tend to take a blown up one apart and see what can be done rather than strip a near new machine down and go down that option.

He said it was from the farm, I said had it been stored in the slurry pit! All cleaned and running......unlike another one that came in from another in a similar condition and was seized, most parts were knackered including the side cover so that is going back. Got to love them!

Three top handle saws in....nice and clean ones and does anyone actually clean their chain brakes on these saws???

There have been instances of purchasers turning up to buy a car, cash in hand only to get beaten and mugged so best go in mob handed with some insurance!

From what I can make out, you are saying it is bogging down? You pull the throttle and the saw sits there not picking up revs as it should or spinning the chain? If it is a new Echo.....why not take it back to the dealer for return or a warranty repair?

I am going to stamp each machine with "Competition Only" like they used to in the 80s on those LOUD exhausts you could buy for your bike! That should cover it!

Is that something from the Scotts of Stowe catalogue.....Daymart next

I have ported a small number of 088/MS880s, the 088 was sort of bonkers as it picked up far faster after it had been done. I don't own a dyno so have no HP figs and having done so few, don't have any gains info on them. I can share the owners details if they are happy for me to give them to you. Cost wise.....read my post from last night It will tell you what you get!

I found that link by looking at Google images, did the same on a 357XP that an Irish customer was going to purchase off Gumtree......found that sold on ebay 100s of miles away!

Caveat Emptor......... Used Sonstige/Other ANDERE Avant 635, Construction machine Other in 93095 Hagelstadt for sale on TruckScout24 WWW.TRUCKSCOUT24.COM Used Construction machine Other Offer: Sonstige/Other ANDERE Avant 635, € 21.900,- Net price, 1.122 h from 2012 in 93095 Hagelstadt, Germany

Now this is an interesting one.......firstly as it is pretty much what I said about my time in manufacturing and what I had to administrate as a Production Manager and.....note the check for chain catcher, chain break and maintenance records. How many out there could supply an invoice for a chainsaw service that was carried out in the last year and how many are running a top handled saw with a missing chain catcher? I purchase 15pcs of MS200T chain catchers at a time because only 2 in 10 MS200Ts that come in have a chain catcher and most have a chain brake full of chip that is a bit...hanging! Then there is the question of Chinese non OEM parts and the non CE marked Chinese copied saws. Again a pretty grey area. The few times I have been involved with the HSE, they have looked at maintenance, safety device testing, staff training and training documents.....different industry but the same process!

Apologies, I must have read that 10 times and must have got brain fog, now corrected

I had the Yamaha RD125YPVS in mind....water cooled and a very interesting power valve on the exhaust port that works on a cam system lowering it for low revs and then raising it as the revs increase thus making much more power plus the porting arrangements will be far more advanced! Get some space frame and a Rotax engine...that would be interesting!

Sorry, I meant that it is an open discussion and am not going to take up the "porting is best and must be done" stance, it is a personal choice and welcome the comments already made by all and the technical aspects and members views being noted. I didn't mean for it to come over as being arrogant.....those that know me know what I am like. Often grumpy but always try to help out.

I have re-read it and what I said is correct. The lower skirt on the inlet side dictates inlet timing and the top edge of the piston crown on the piston dictates the exhaust timing.....or am I missing something

I am not going to defend any of this as I carry out the owners wishes and it isn't illegal to do so. You should hear those WCS "Bark Boxes", they make my muffler mods sound quiet. Porting is for those that like/want it and it is a "Marmite" like thing.

My first saw I ported was my own 346XP, I was on Arboristsite at the time and spent a little time talking to Brad Snelling (well known US tuner) about it. In his words - don't change the stock port timing and don't hog the lowers out too much. Interesting point on the port timing as this was the reason it all kicked off. Seems the 346 port timing is pretty much bob on and the guys on Arboristsite still call their 346s "ported". Mixed up world we live in!

They are good questions and can't say one way or the other. Many would say that the modification allows the user to complete a more forceful and accurate cut with less chance of it splitting and then there is using a smaller saw to do heavier work giving less fatigue on the body. All are the reasons most like a modified saw and were the reasons many of the yanks started porting......046, 2.5' bar, semi skip chain, ported instead of lugging a 066 or 084 about all day! I guess H&S would ask if it was a contributing factor or not!