spudulike

Yeah - but is there beer there:thumbup:

Main reasons for the saw to seize like this are: - 1)Incorrect fuel mix - I always use 40:1 although Stihl state 50:1......two stroke oil 1L=£7.50 .........1 P&C non OEM - £100, OEM=£300:thumbdown: 2) Old fuel mix - the oil is degraded past 3-4 weeks and gets worse with age until it goes brown. 3) In the US they have sever problems with Ethanol being used as an additive, not so common in the UK but it will come - it also kills fuel-lines 4) incorrect carb H adjustment 5) Air leak from a bad carb boot, bad seal carb to boot, bad crank seals, loose cylinder etc 6) Loose Muffler I would say the most common cause for seizure, without exception is neat fuel in cheaper saws followed by poor carb adjustment and air leaks. I can pressure check, tach tune and compression check and have looked after a number of saws for members on this site. I do it as a hobby and a way of paying for my wifes love of shoes....I lied a bit about that last bit....just incase she reads this:laugh1: If you want, I can take a look - If you look at my posts, I always recommend that the route cause for seizure is found before running up with new parts - pretty common sense but many people haven't a clue how a two stroke actually works and why a fully sealed crank-case is critcal! Choice is yours - I have just done a Husky 262 for a member on the South coast, a 357 Husky for a local chap and have an 020 in bits aaiting crank bearings for another member. Hope this helps - in your case I would fatten up the oil content in the fuel and run the saw a little richer at the top end plus ensure a full pressure check.

Hasnt the same drive as the New Order Original but you may not have heard this version!

"Simple fix" is always dependant on the person fixing, my simple fix is another persons hell! Not idling could be a simple carb adjustment on the "L" setting, an incorrect idle speed, tank breather, incorrectly rebuilt carb or the Infamous Husqvarna carb boot problem - get an air leak on this and it will cause issues - if it has a decompressor then this could be leaking. It could be simple or more complex - if it is a silverside for under £300 and is running then grab it:thumbup: IMO, if it is running it is well up on most of the kit I get in! If you get it and can't fix it, send it over and I will get it ripping - if it is a silverside - you may not get it back though:thumbup1: - just joking

That was my first comment - I have used a few makes and models now and if wood is to be cut - always grab my 345 with a muffler mod - tached to 13,000rpm - nice and light, well balanced with a 15" bar, great AV and really has some go - I only reach for the Jonsered 630 60cc when the wood goes over 18" diameter! I see the 350 gets poor rep for mufflers coming loose - unjustified in my mind - never had a problem myself:confused1:

Most important thing is a 0.5 sec refresh, there are plently of slower ones but you really need this. A few options - this one - Tiny-Tach: Diesel Tachometers from ITCO has the advantage of not needing a wire to wrap round the HT lead. I use this - TTO Tach-Hour Meter at Trail Tech Home it uses a wire and is really for a trail bike without a rev counter but works really well and is more cost effective than the above. I thought I wouldn't use mine but it is invaluable - found out my ear is around 1,000rpms down on correct setting - safe but not as good for performance. I'm sure someone owes me a beer by now - all this advice I am giving:thumbup1:

I am thinking an alarm system like they have in shops to stop people pinching expensive items would be good - some sort of high power alarm and a simple jack plug connection on the saw to the alarm system. There are plenty of things you could do but mostly would be "frowned" on by the law.

I got my 181SE in the picture for around £145 - I think I got a bargain! It is ex Nato and think it hasn't seen much use. I don't use it much as it is a bit big for the log work I do and purchased it more to have as a possesion rather than a work tool - if that makes sense! Nice looking saw - very tough and am told the Yanks like breathing on them then racing them.

They are generally heavier but will last for years if you get a good one - Husqvarna 254, Jonsered 630, Stihl 026 - all decent mid weight hitters. If you want light powerful then go for a newer saw - I own a number of big saws but always grab a small 45cc Husky 345 when there is some wood to be cut - it has a muffler mod and rips:thumbup1:

Here is one damaged piston caused by a screw in stop on an angled plug hole - completely the wrong tool

It can vary from saw to saw, starting with the cylinder, bigger pro saws generally have closed transfer ports and home owner ones have open ports, there are many exceptions. Home owner saws generally don't have alloy crankcases, there are many ways around the traditional vertically split alloy crankcases such as clam type horizontally split crankcases and hybrid engineering plastic and alloy cases. Pro saws mostly have adjustable oilers, home owners dont Pro saws generally rev that bit higher and produce more power. The materials and construction on Pro saws is generally superior than home owner. Pro saws generally have stronger cranks, bearings and are better engineered. Some saws I would say are home owner/pro as they are close to being pro saws and are a milion miles from the B&Q stuff. I am sure other members will come up with other things. Oh - at £200 you are talking Home owner/Pro or older model pro saw

Are you telling me it isn't for stirring my tea:thumbup: I have been removing clutches with nothing but my teeth Which hole do I stick this thing in and will I be able to walk afterwards!!!

If you are looking for a Husky equivalent - the 350 is a good domestic/pro saw - light with good AV and packs a good wallop or if you are flush, the 346XPG or 357 have pro wallop and will take a 18" bar easily.

How about asking the customer if they would prefer an hourly rate or a price per job rate - they may prefer one or the other. Most people like to get on with their tradesmen so show you care, make sure they know what you are offering, if you are disposing of garden waste then make sure all their quotes are doing the same and using their own tools etc. Show interest in the clients garden, if you have a few ideas on how to improve it etc the just show a bit of interest and try to form trust. £10 - 15 per hour is about right - bare in mind the number of people offering similar prices and try to leave an impression without being overbearing.

Mad Max- the first one, Italian Job - your only supposed to blow the Blooming doors off:thumbup:, American graffiti - lots of Santa Pod memories! Aliens - would love one of those movement sensing cannons:thumbup:

Those look like Kefs to me....nice:thumbup1:

I'm well in to the sound element of AV, got my self a pair of Castle Severns (£880 when new) a Mordaunt Short sub and rear satellite speakers being driven by a 70w per channel receiver - I like playing AC/DC stiff upper lip live from Munich very loud - it goes that loud my ears ring after five minutes and you can hear it 100 yards up the road:thumbup: Got a 42" Panasonic Plasma - a good budget TV - no complaints!

Is that like the end of the door knob with the end of the bell being a close second:thumbup1:

The chain may be mega tight from running dry, take it off and soak in oil or diesel, check the nose sprocket on the bar - this may have seized up, if so, soak in oil diesel also and free it up. Can't see it being much else. If you don't take the training route - make sure you wear a CE marked helmet with ear defenders and face guard, chaps/chainsaw trousers and steel toecap boots. Things can go real bad really quick with chainsaws - took a picture of a guy who took a chainsaw across the face to convince me the value of PPE. Lots of good advice on this site.

Think my signature says it all:thumbup:

Clean the bore chemically - any acid will remove the aluminium and leave the nikasil plating and a light hone with fine grade wet and dry will sort it. Fit a new piston for £25 and the job will be a good one. Just be aware why the thing seized in the first place, if it has an air leak then it will happen again so a pressure check is worthwhile to ensure it doesn't happen again. 9 times out of 10 it is no oil in the fuel or old fuel oil mix that kills these engines. The old piston looks heavily seized but have sorted worse in my time:thumbup:

FS85 is a brushcutter strimmer, I have serviced an FS80 - only has a single mixture adjuster for the "L" low speed mix - usually set to one turn out or thereabouts. Set to this and ensure the air filter is clean, if it still sounds flat, it could be a blocked exhaust, carbon in the exhaust port, dirty carb or a poorly adjusted needle valve arm. The single screw carbs are a real pain - they always run rich and no way of adjustment - the manufacturers carry on thinking no one can adjust a carb but them!

Sounds a bit like a fuel tank breather problem, try loosening the tank filler cap with half a tank full and try a cut - if it is much better, clean the fuel tank breather.

Just North of Baldock - just sorted a 357 so I am familiar with them and what makes them fail. PM me with what needs to be done - I have a bit of spare time at the moment whilst I wait for spares to come in.