spudulike

He would have got £30 for it on ebay as a non runner - have one in the garage just like it - you get what you pay for - Some customers only have £50!

See how good your local dealer is - the butterfly valve on the carb may not be sealing properly, the carb throttle linkage may be tight, the L setting may be a bit weak, you may have an air leak but shouldnt on a saw that new. On a four month old saw, it should snap straight down to idle - the designer and engineers didn't design the saw to over rev on shutdown so it shouldnt do it!

Used fibre glass resin on the inside of an oil tank where it had been heavily dropped on the bar and split the case along the weld. It worked but probably easier in your case to fit a new tank.

Mmm - No taste not liking the Huskys - glad my service on the 357 is still good - just the 372 to fis now:thumbup1:

Not used to simple problems like that - mine usually last a few days and iclude a full strip down! Now for that rattly crank bearing:thumbup:

Is that what the 357 has been up to and what broke the 372?

Magneto - a charging device of wire coils and magnets used to power lights on a moped etc - Coil - a device of wire on a laminated steel form used in conjunction with a magnetic flywheel to generate an HT spark They are both completely different Why do you think the spark is no good? If the carb has been "full of gunk" I would suspect that it may be this depending on what "GUNK" is - in my day it was engine cleaner:-) Is the plug getting fuel on ot it? is the engine poping at all. If the plug is sparking then it is probably enough to start or at least fire the engine! Have you inspected the front of the piston or done the "poor mans" compression check on it?

If you get stuck - send it over via parcels2go - £6.75 and I will fix it whatever the fault and not charge you an arm and a leg - choice is yours!

I'll let you in to a secret ....Spark+Compression+Fuel=:thumbup:a running engine In short, if you have spark (assuming your flywheel key isn't sheared) and your plug is wet??? Then if you have compression, your engine should start - there are a few things that can be exceptions to this rule like faulty fast idle carb stop and leaking needle jet but this basic engine maintenance! Should have sent it to me - never had a non running saw I couldn't fix!

I thought the quote was: - "Wales - where men are men and sheep are nervous" No disrespect to our members in Wales or anywhere else for that matter!

Yes - found it on Google eventually - got some strange results on urban dictionary - a little bit worrying:blushing:

If you don't clean the crap out of the chainbrake cover, there is a high chance the alloy tie casting will fracture - the cover will hold it together but still not good. I take the jug off to clean the fins - a sharp knife and a hot soak gets rid of lts of junk - oven cleaner is good for a real deep clean.

Barlicker:confused1: Is this some sort of Northern insult:confused1:

Use a typical business card and put this betwen the coil and and flywheel magnets then do up the location bolts. Two thicknesses of A4 printer paper will also work. There are factory tool but this will suffice.

Prehaps we should start a new post on how to sharpen chains for people that don't know, I buy in and refurb saws, I have seen many faults in peoples sharpening - lack of understanding what a raker actually does is a common one, I have seen them not filed at all which means the chain cutters have the top surfaces polished off. I have seen then filed too much giving a very snatchy chain cutting action. Sharpening the cutters at to acute angle is another - 30 degrees is about right for majority use but many less experienced users find it difficult to file the cutter tip and end up over filing the end of the chisel. Loosing the hook of the cutter is another fault that I have seen - using a bar with too much roll overwearing full chisel cutter tips is another. My grinding experience partially comes from working with hard and soft press tools in 60 ton presses and watching the tool makers regrind them - no coolant needed but the grinding was done on a moving bed and stationary wheel - the coolant was used on the lathes and mills in use at the time. Experience has taught me how to keep the grinding heat down and have a novel way on dressing my grinding disks - my first picture on my earlier post was about the worst I have seen - the chain is in a poor but salveagable state.

Some pictures of chain sharpening 1) Badly ground chain with overheating, note the roll of metal around the top of the cutter and on the side of the cutter - not one of mine! 2) A cutter on the same chain now hand sharpened 3) One of my chains freshly ground

Not sure if you can purchase diamond bits for it but they will probably last longer

Someones been on Arboristsite.com!!

There is more to grinding than just buying the best grinder - disks can glaze over and can overheat cutters causing all sorts of issues, the disk needs to have the glaze broken if it forms, to grind correctly. My view is that a bench grinder is a great tool in the workshop but like most tools, they are only as good as the operator - same as using files by hand!

You can't be sure what the guy does, probably a clean up, reset, put it on a saw and set it up then send it back, the problem being that the max revs running of the saw will be at factory carb setting or correct for his saw but not at optimum for yours that can only be set with a tach on the machine the carb is from. You may get the carb sorted this way or at least as close as you can get by mail

No, cos I use a flippin grinder that is set up right and the wheel hasn't got glazed up from over use:thumbup: The grinder WHEN USED CORRECTLY and set correctly will grind such a chain. I do 90% of my chain sharpening in a workshop as I service and repair saws rather than use them professionally, if I used them out in the field then I would probably use a file much much more and I think this is why the two trains of thought! Anyway - this isn't helping the original question of why the guy in the original post God bless him, isn't getting a cutting edge that works - perhaps we should be talking about file size, cutter angle, hook and raker depth, perhaps we should be sending him links of the Stihl and Oregon guides on how to sharpen a chain, what about different manufactures of file - I gather Vallorbe are good but havent used them - just used Stihl and they seem good............................ what about a few pictures to assist the bloke - if you cant hand sharpen or understand what you are trying to achieve then a grinder won't help anyway - I can post some good and bad pictures of grinder and hand sharpening if hat helps! Hope the original poster is still reading - try looking at this: - OREGON Maintenance Manual & http://www.stihlusa.com/information/STIHL-Sharp-Advice-Saw-Chain-Guide-Bars.pdf Isn't a helping hand better than bitching about this as I am sure both methods work fine when done in the correct manner!

Keep at it bud, no one is an expert from day 1, if you asked me what it looked like I would have said an owl so you must get a pat on the back for that. IMO - learn from others plus your own experiences and you will get there - you know you have success when people want to pay you for them:thumbup: All the best