spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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From the album: Stihl MS200T, strip, clean, inspect and rebuild
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From the album: Stihl MS200T, strip, clean, inspect and rebuild
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From the album: Stihl MS200T, strip, clean, inspect and rebuild
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With ebay you have to sell items that interest you, you know about, you know a good buy price and recognise a good sell price. You have to be able to purchase in bulk and break down to sell in smaller volumes or to add value by repair, cleaning or just listing in a better way than others. A week is too short, I could probably do it in 2-3 with refurb saws but they have a distinct season starting with the first frost - thats how the great British public are......oh it is cold, I need some firewood, oh, I need a saw to cut it up. No getting it under cover a year or two before, no having a log pile to split in the good weather!
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Generally the saw should use almost a tankfull or oil per tank of fuel - most I have used have been like that - not forgetting that a 13" bar will need the oil adjuster set to output less oil than a 24" bar as obviously the chain and bar needs much more oil due to its length. Some saws seem to oil more than others - some I end up humming the theme tune to Dallas when I am using them as so much oil is coming out:laugh1: - Ask Luke from Old Warden about his MS660!!
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A saw slipping it's mortal coil....Nah - just get the defibrillator out and bring it back to life. Not much gets past me, sometimes the saw doesn't want to come back to life but it is inevitable in the end:thumbup:
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I use one for my work in sales - did a lot of legwork on things like traffic warnings, lane control, named roads, updates, screen size etc - in short Tom Tom had slightly better reviews but bought the Garmin as it came in at £110 against Tom Toms £180 for the same spec - used it now for 8 months - all good and also use a hand held for walking - also good. Pretty much the same as the Stihl and Husky argument:lol:
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Thats good - not a common one but have seen it before but on a strimmer - the springs usually get thinner on the hook on high milage machines but can also just fracture due to the temper of the metal. Glad you fixed it and all is well.
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Well - what was the outcome, I always like to know if the advice from all - heaped upon other members was of help or was totally useless and if it made a difference. Always good to know that some of us were on the right track or if we should just throw the towel in and have a beer or three!
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Were they the ones with pointy hats - they were a blast:laugh1:
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From a technical side - Stihls inboard clutch is a pretty resilient bit of kit and some of the older saws I have had in have been in very good nick - they seem to support the sprocket bearing better - the outboard ones tend to wear the bearing faster and changing the sprocket is more difficult! I know Husqvarna use both on their saws but are predominantly outboard in design! Having said that - I still prefer Huskys but work on both - the MS200 is still better than the 335XPT IMO!
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All saws would run great if you guys didn't abuse them so bad:thumbup: It is a full time job keeping them all going:lol:
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Just seen that you said the idle is running fast - if this is the case then the clutch could be opening enough to touch the sprocket lightly - if this is the case - lower the idle to "normal" before digging in to the sprocket area!
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Oh - swap it for a 346XP:thumbup: Couldn't resist!!
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If the clutch springs are bad, the chain will spin at low revs without the chainbrake on, it may well stall the saw with the chain brake engaged. What is probably happening if the chain isn't spinning is that when the brake is engaged, it is putting force on to the sprocket bearing/thrust washers or sprocket drum and this is transferring to the crank shaft and this is enough to stall the engine at idle. Take the clutch sprocket off and give the saw a good clean, lube the sprocket bearing, make sure the brake band hasn't got gunked up etc You may have a bit of twine, grass etc around the E clip/washer on the end of the crank or the end float on the sprocket has been taken up with crap. You can take it frrom me that the brake is pushing the clutch drum in to a position that is causing enough friction on the crank to stall the saw!
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Yup - the Stovax is toasty and warm - the misses demands it!
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You should be able to pick up a second hand or pattern part for around £20, you may be able to find another saw using the same part that is interchangeable. These are great saws and still cut the mustard today!
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Good advice - it is going to tell you if it is chain related or clutch or bar sprocket or bent crank shaft - good logical fault finding:thumbup:
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Common starting problems are: - Fast idle setting not engaging correctly overly weak mixture Choke not sealing the carb correctly Low compression Carb needs cleaning Tank breather not letting air in Flywheel to coil gap too large Fuel lines gone soggy Fuel filter blocked Exhaust port or muffler carboned up These are but a few but worth a look
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Blimey - found a man who doesn't rate the 254 - rare as rocking horse manure ......or UK eurovision wins:thumbup1:
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Check tou aren't using 1.3mm gauge chain on a 1.5mm bar as it would have this effect.
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I think it was a 323 I sorted but on this the baffle plate in the exhaust was carboned up - I managed to open up the thing and open up the holes. Take a look at this and also test for weak mixture or air leaks!
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Glad all is well now with the saw and bar - I didn't file the rakers but checked them and they were correct to the Stihl gauge.Glad the saw cuts straight now - another happy customer:-)
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If it is still under warranty then take it back to the dealer. It could be sticky carb linkages, sticky carb butterfly valve or an air leak being the most likely causes.
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Probably carb boot air leak!
