spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Solid, well built, will go on for years, bit heavy and won't set the world alight but a good workhorse.
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North Herts - Near Baldock, think many people owe me a beer:001_smile:
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What about a two year old saw that has been seized:001_rolleyes: Personally, I fix everything I can - the washing machine has had around 6 sets of motor brushes in it:thumbup1: I just hate throwing away kit - if the saw had done 15 years and the plating had worn through and the rest of the saw was buggered then perhaps it has had it's time but generally have fully repaired some saws others would have split for spares. If you want to throw your old saws my way then go ahead:thumbup:
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Will PM you about the acid - I built my own pressure checking kit - saved the £150 Stihl charge - probably easier to do the work, get it back together again and ask a local dealer to do it unless you are real good. Inspect the impulse lines and carb boot thoroughly before reassembly otherwise the pressure check will be pointless.
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Yup - pressure check the old girl:thumbup:
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Put a new piston in it without cleaning it up and the rings will be damaged and the piston will suffer. If it is cleaned up you make a judgement on it, if the plating is in reasonable condition, it will not damage the ring or piston although vertical scoring will reduce power and compression.
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I think you mean the green ones like in my avatar - they are 181SE and 288s and in generally very good little used condition. The yanks like to tune them up and race them - very strong:thumbup:
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It looks pretty bad IMO, the piston has really melted and put down loads of aluminium on to the cylinder. It may be ok under this but any vertical scores above the exhaust port and it will be dodgy using it. The aluminium can be removed but it depends on the plating that is left. If you haven't done this before then a new P&C kit may be the answer! Personally I would give it a go but I have done this many times before and my time is mine! Take care as you have lost a bit of ring from the piston - if you havent located it check it isn't in the crankcase:thumbdown: Goodluck
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Different life up there in Salford isn't it - I would be quite shocked if my pensioner neighbours climbed through my window in the buff - think I may have to call in the men in white coats - hang on, thats the other neighbours - one is a psychologist and she is batty - but a very nice lady:laugh1:
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If it is in good condition it will be worth it - check the sprocket is good, if you can pull the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port, if not, pull out the plug and shine a small torch down the plug hole with the piston out of the way so you know the bore is good. Otherwise seek a comp check. These old saws were built like brick houses you need when you are bursting - very strong and will go on for years. I have picked up these older saws in beat up condition for £100 but sold them in good condition for £220 - 350. As I say - in good knick, they will go on for years:thumbup:
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Set the L screw first - start on 1 1/4 turn out, wind it in - the saw will race and then start to die, wind it out past the bit where it races and leave it on the bit just past the fastest revs - about 1/4 turn and then adjust idle. Give the H screw 1 1/2 turns out, rev it flat out - it should sound very rich and thumpy on the top end and smoke, wind in the screw just to the part it clears and sounds ALMOST clean at high revs. It should sound "Burbly" on the top end - known af four stroking - this is where you need to be and takes some experience to do it well. Do not tune for maximum revs or think the saw reving higher is better - you are probably leaning out the fuel too much and it will seize in time. A safer method is to use a Tach rev counter and set it 500RPM under the max manufacturers spec - this is a specialised bit of kit. It all takes time to learn and experience - make sure the air filter is clean and the tank is full when you do this and make sure the saw is warm.
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Spot on - worth listening to - my preference is for 15" as a good all round bar size - very good ballance on this saw.
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He is of course correct - what is it you are trying to do?
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MDF is carciogenic in its dust form - if you are using a log burner, it may over heat it - burnt many things in my past including my old kitchen but that is another story! I wouldn't be using one of the best groundsaws around for doing this type of work - I would buy some POS and keep the 346 for serious work
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It is only worth steaming in as a last resort - if the neighbour is generally OK then let it wash over you. If it is ongoing then politely state your case -it isn't worth pissing them off if they are reasonable people. I had a neighbour that we eventually moved away from - current neighbours are tops - one has a saw and just sold his son in law one:thumbup: Other neighbour finds my saw escapades amusing - never an angry word and often come round for a BBQ etc - I am lucky:thumbup: The old neighbour - we called him bellend - coz he was!
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Just north of Baldock 1 mile off the A1M
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You usually need to rub the reclaimed area with 400 grit paper - this should clean it up - if there are vertical scores above the exhaust port then it is probably shot, other than that, it is probably a runner unless small areas of coating are missing!
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Glad you did it - always a sense of achievement - if you had got stuck, I could have probably turned it round quickly as you are not too far away.
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Go for the "Silverside" - 50cc rather than 45cc - same weight....more power:thumbup:
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Get two wrecking bars in there either side of the rod - that will do it:thumbup: The gaskets have a tendency to lock solid but Stihl, God bless em, hide a bolt under the rubber oil pump connector - been there and got the T Shirt! One is hidden under the dogs as well - just make sure they are all out before you start giving it some with the mallet - yes a MALLET and not a hammer:lol: It is easy to do some damage to thin castings so go easy, sometimes holding one cover and hitting the end of the crank will break the seal - you could probably fabricate a tool but never needed one to date. The MS200s crank bearings run directly on the crankshaft so new bearings sometimes won't help a noisy engine. If it isn't knocking, leave it well alone! Oh - make sure you fit the bearings the correct way round! Five minute job.....easy!
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Whip the carb about and give it a good clean with some carb cleaner - there is a plastic ring that plugs in to the throat of the carb and also the impulse hole between the rubber carb boot and carb - make sure it is still there otherwise the saw will run like a bag of nails.
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Pretty reliable on the MS200 and 020t, not had one fail. When do you need the saw for?
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Keep it moving - get the spine straight as soon as possible - lie on your front and try to push up on your elbows until you can walk vertically and not stooped. Long term, strengthen your back with doing situps - 20 a night and havent had problems in 6 months - used to get a bad back all the time through cutting or working on the bench. Hear what the other guys are saying about yoga! A back support for heavy work helps - but your trousers will need a belt:laugh1:
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Are we talking about the 20T.....the one that looks like the MS200T or the - 20AV as there is no "nut" on the sprocket - the clutch screws on and holds the sprocket on like on most outboard clutches!
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Rip the recoil cover off, remove the small black wire from the coil, replace it, pull the plug out, put it in the plug cap, earth it (away from the plug hole - the plug can ignite fuel from the plug hole) and give the cord a serious pull or two, if you have no spark, it is the coil! If you have spark, the wiring is earthing somewhere. I may be able to help you if you can't get it fixed!
