spudulike

Rip the recoil cover off, remove the small black wire from the coil, replace it, pull the plug out, put it in the plug cap, earth it (away from the plug hole - the plug can ignite fuel from the plug hole) and give the cord a serious pull or two, if you have no spark, it is the coil! If you have spark, the wiring is earthing somewhere. I may be able to help you if you can't get it fixed!

Yes - I have seen modified MS200Ts, the exhaust isn't the easiest one to mod being cast alloy but the porting can be done. The MS260 is an easy muffler mod, the original has a very small dual cut outlet - very easy to modify, porting will also give it a bit of clout. I have cracked the MS200 carb problems - you are best to stick to the non pumped version and if the non pumped version is playing up, have just worked out why - took a few hours and many rebuilds but have a fix at long last on one I am working on. Hope all goes well - if the 660 runs sweet and pulls well the all is good - just trying to get some time to port, adjust squish and muffler mod my 346, people just keep giving me their saws to fix:thumbup:

Think we should have some pictures of bad sprockets - seen some crackers on ebay saws - users save £15 but havent a clue what it does to the crank bearings, sprocket bearings, chain life, added vibes etc:001_rolleyes:

I think we have ascertained Robs yard is made up of chewwed up tarmac:lol: Revving the knackers off it - if you tach tune it, you will need to hit the high revs for a second to log the max revs, not something to do on a cold engine or all the time but it does need to be done once modified! All that being said, lets see it cut some wood and let us know what it is like digging it in hard with the dogs, that is when the extra power will tell, that and when using a much longer bar. Just need to port it, sort the transfers, adjust the squish and open up the piston now:thumbup:

Take the carb adjustment screw out and blast a bit of carb cleaner down there - if you look at the engine side of the carb bore, you should see a good jet of cleaner blast out of it, if you don't, it could be blocked. Very difficult to fault find without seeing it on a problem like this - the clutch springs like Matt said could be shot and if they are catching the clutch sprocket may stop it idling - what does it do if you set it on a fast idle of say around 3500 - 4000rpm? at what point does it die? No idle would normally mean no fuel on the L circuit of the carb or a possible air leak leaning the mix down, could be the impulse line or circuit dependant as to whether it is part of the carb or a separate pipe. Good luck

Ooooh - you worked out the link to Monty and his Python:lol: And the wifes underwear won't fit - if you think it will, you can tell er but I know who will come off worse:blushing:

You can look no further than the £/€ exchange rate for the higher prices, a few years back we had 1.5€ to the £, now we are at 1.12€ to the £. Not good!

IMO you avoid anything new until it has all the bugs removed, I work for a German firm and they say their engineers are the best.....Mmmm - I can tell you they are not - in my days of manufacturing they had no idea on how our progression press tools worked -they were hard work TBH. The MS200 has a few issues, mostly on the carb, there is one with the pump on the pumped carb and I have found another on the non pumped version but if you are aware of these and know your way round saws, they are a tough little work horse with plenty of welly and are relatively easy to work on, the design has come from years of development from the 20AV and 20T and nowerdays there is too much given to reducing cost at the detriment of strength and durabillity. Just my opinion - time will tell...................

Got to say I upped my 345 by 500RPM when I did a muffler mod, the mod will lower running temperature allowing for a faster running speed, the mod should also allow for higher RPMs in the wood without bogging so much so it isnt all about top end revs out of wood but also about the rpms under load which should be higher with more power from the muffler mod.

Think that is the forerunner to the 20T - supposed to have a bit of tourqe but not used one.

Should unleash a bit more power - Muffler mods always work better on modern bunged up 114db mufflers.

In another life I was a God but have since been dealt the mortal blow of being made human but with super human skills in regards to chainsaws - some call me "Chainsaw repair man":laugh1: I sometimes wear my underpants on the outside of my trousers! Thanks for the thanks - glad you got there in the end, alcohol an saw repair doesn't readily mix, some repairs drive you to drink though My spares come from Martin at Kwickchip (ebay), Mister solutions and a few other ebay and online suppliers.

Pretty simple - use the standard Stihl plastic double ended piston stop (not the bolt in one) or use starter cord, the thread is left handed so to take it off, turn it clockwise. Ten minute job that one!

Yup - little metal domes, refurbed a 262 for a member on here, he rebuilt the carb, running like a train, he fired it up and five minute later it died. Came back to me and the welch plug had blown out - he had just pushed it in:001_rolleyes: I don't usually pull them as there is little point unless you have tried everything else and nothing is working - they can leak so sealing them in is needed if they are removed. Not sure where you put air on but a carb clean is best done with an aerosol of carb cleaner and not hi comp air - 99% of the time this works - the MS200 on my bench at the moment is the exception to this - driving me mad:confused1:

If you replaced the welch plugs - these should be sealed in with a bit of superglue - if these are leaking of loose..............

The "metal valves" you describe will either be needle valves or welch plugs, to rebuild a carb, you need to understand how it works and what each part does, the needle valve arm will need re-setting if it is replaced. If the fuel is leaking to the outside of the saw then it isn't the needle valve, especially if it hasn't been replaced. Actually - on reading our original posting - find the fuel leak and fix it - the starting problem is probably the orientation of the pumping gasket, the thin plastic one should be closest to the carb body with the spacer one closest to the top cover. Had a Jonsered like that once - had an arm like Popeye until I fixed it! Check the gauze filter is clear of crap when you check it.

The dissapearing fuel is probably a leaking needle valve - the fuel is probably ending up in the crankcase and causing flooding! Hope you got the gaskets round the right way on the carb rebuild!

Thanks Simon and thanks for the custom, it is always a bit difficult buying a saw from someone you don't know, especiallty without the protection of ebay but I say what I do and do what I say plus ensure the saws I refurbish are ready for a good lot of work with no hidden nasties like buggered sprockets or clutch springs like most of the ones I get in! Glad this one worked out, it is a good saw and the rebuild can be found in my photo album on this site if you are interested

Beat me to it, I tuned by ear and found I was around 1KRPM down. The L screw gives the mixture at idle to low mid revs and dictates stable idle and pickup, the H screw dictates maximum revs with the modern saws also having rev limiters on the coil. Setting the H screw lean will make the saw over-rev, cause the piston to overheat and this will melt it with seizure following shortly afer. Manufacturers give a maximum rev setting spec, a tach allows you to set a saw to a margin below maximum revs or to go over if the saw is modded to do so - porting and muffler mods alow the engine to shift more heated gas resulting in a cooler engine so a leaner higher revving engine tune can be achieved. To get the best out of a saw, a tach tune is really the best tool but a decent engineer wil be able to tune by ear and not risk damaging the saw but it takes experience. So - understand the facts

Don't push me cos I'm close to the hedge, I'm trying not to loose my head aha aha aha..............what a pirrock:lol:

Will PM you

Very possible this is the cause of the seize - the new decomp and associated tubes are around £30 and the normal decomp only - £10 - would fit the standard one and blank or plug this crankcase connector - looks a little different from my 359EPA. You are getting some good advice on this thread!

Firstly - the piston is toast - use it as an ashtray if you smoke! The cylinder looks like it will clean up IMO - you can't be 100% until you have done it but looks like a bit of aluminium transfer to me which you can remove chemically - avoid using abrasives - just fine grit emery for a light clean after removal of the aluminium. Don't use a hone for a cast liner - you will take off all the Nikasil plating. The real important part is the area above the exhaust port where compression is made! If you go aftermarket - ask the seller if the cylinder supplied has open ports or closed ports - your OEM cylinder is closed as you can see where the fuel vapour goes in to the side transfers and comes out in to the combustion chamber, open ports have visible channels running up the cylinder. My 346 kit from GHS was open port and I havent used it as it should be closed - most pro larger saws are closed. ArbIreland had a nice 346 kit but missed this when I purchased mine. If it was my saw, I would clean up the bore and fit a meteor/episan piston if I could get hold of one or a golf with OEM clips. The EPA decomp can be removed, a standard one fitted and the lower crank brass tube the pipe was fitted to can be plugged - I have used a bit of fuel pipe pushed on to the pipe pluged with a bolt glued and screwed in to the tube - make sure this is completely sealed and for Gods sake don't forget to plug it! You can plug the decompresor hole in the cylinder and do away with it - you don't really need one but it may wear the starter gear a little quicker. Also check the notorious carb boot has the husky metal clip mod, if it doesn't then use a jubilee clip that I personally prefer as it can be clamped harder. I would also pressure check and then make sure the carb is retuned - if you don't know why it has seized then this is a must. If you don't understand the above, lay down the tools, step away from the saw and give it to someone that knows their craft! I can look at it for you if you like or do the cylinder work - choice is yours!