spudulike

Think I just said that! Oh - one last thing - try the loosening the fuel tank cap and give it a fistfull - if the engine picks up well then check the tank breather. PM me if you need me to look at the saw - good chainsaws MS260 - well worth fixing. Spud

Could be many things - Carb the gauze filter blocked running weak Blocked low speed circuit Blocked air filter Engine Air leak low compression blocked spark arrestor If you can't get it going I am happy to take a look and advise a reasonable cost of repair. Spud

I always use fresh fuel and a 40:1 mix even though the saw manual and Stihl recommend a 50:1 mix, reason being that if the saw runs lean due to air leaks, fuel running out or adjustment, there is a little more oil to keep it going and more chance of me noticing the tell tail signs of impending doom. I am sure we all know that fuel will destroy the properties of two stroke oil when mixed after a period of about one month so use old mix in the fourstroke lawnmower:thumbup: Spuid

Sounds like you have lost compression, most likely reason for this is a heat seizure on the exhaust side of the piston or a leaking decompressor valve. The backfiring could indicate a crankshaft key has sheared - just fixed up another members Stihl 028 with similar issues. If you get stuck then I am happy to look at it and advise a repair cost - you can mail it to me or bring it round if you prefer. I have done this for acouple of members now - both seem pretty happy:thumbup: Spud

If it has been heat seized, don't forget to check for air leaks before running it with new parts otherwise you may fry it again. You may be able to salvage the cylinder. Spud

If the underside of the piston doesn't state "Mahle" then it is probably non OEM and if the big end has no play and no debris then it looks like that is ok and that os great news. Sideways play on the big end is fine and no problem, 100% normal. You will need to inspect the cylinder like I mentioned earlier, I reckon it is probably toast and the damage has been caused by the circlip coming out - a problem on some non OEM pistons! If you want a cheap way out then look at this - STIHL MS460 046 CYLINDER AND PISTON ASSEMBLY NON GENUINE Andy, who runs the company is a good guy - I haven't used his kits yet but it will get you running again. Just ensure that you check the bottom end for the damaging circlip and would pressure check to ensure no air leaks are present. Spud

I have heard about this from the guys in the US and OZ, it seems to be fairly well documented problem - not good:thumbdown: Spud

Part 1128 020 9400 is on the IPL 1128 020 9400 Give Andy my regards:thumbup: Spud

Firstly the "black residue" is where the piston has melted and deposited aluminium on the exhaust side of the clinder - this can be removed chemically and can be lightly abraded to sort out part of the problem. The end of the circlip is almost definitely NOT the problem, if both circlips are different, it makes me wonder if the saw has already been apart - if you look at the bottom of the piston does it say "Mahle" on the underside of the piston? The only time I have seen damage like this on the inlet side of the piston, the big end of the saw had exploded sending metal debris up in to the upper cylinder. I would inspect the big end as much as possible, inspect the crankcase and muffler for debris like rollers from the big end and bits of bearing cage, plus pull the rod up and down and look for excessive play! If the scores are deep, have broken through the Nikasil plating and more importantly - are in the upper combustion part of the cylinder then it is scrap. The cylinder is plated and can't be rebored and oversize pistons fitted. Looks buggered to me and would think the oil wasn't up to much or went off if the saw was left unused for a few weeks, the saw has heat seized and this may have done the big end in! If th episton is non OEM - the ring location pins may have come out of the piston - worth checking! Spud

Seen them in Tenerife - supposed to be worlds oldest tree! Spud

Personally with a saw worth that much, I would take the head off and inspect the damage, at bare minimum, make sure the loose bit is removed and hopefull all will be good but a strip down would be a couple of hours well spent! Spud

Just read the last post - oh bugger:thumbdown: Think I would pull the cylinder off and check out the damage to the piston crown, cylinder walls and cylinder top. If you are lucky, all will be fine, if you are not then it could be ans expensive repair. You could inspect through the spark plug hole and extract the thing through the hole or exhaust port but know what I would do if it was my saw. Spud

From what you have said, the end has fallen off the decompressor, if it had started leaking then the saw would have probably stalled rather than seized. Just unscrew the thing and fit a new one. If you are worried about it coming loose then use a little studlock on it. Spud

Excellent vid - was you weraring a Rastafarian hat or the hard hat that day:thumbup: Spud

Just purchased a £28 tach from the US, got stung for £4 on customs duty and £8 handling fee from the Royal Mail:thumbdown: On a £300 import, you will have to pay VAT on it but I think you are ok if it is an import from an EU country with tax paid within that country. Spud

I have PMed you, I think you are local to me and reckon I can help. Spud

Keep an eye out on ebay, gumtree and preloved - if the thief is stupid, he will advertise them out for sale. Spud

Don't know the 362, the 357 has a great rep - light, powerful, low AV - weakness is the carb boot - has a tendancy for air leaks. Spud PS - the 357 comes in 3/4 or .325 sizes

Have you thought about openiong up the muffler and re-tuning the carb, did this on my 345 Husky and it goes like a 350. I worked on my brothers 026 recently and saw that the exhaust outlet was pretty small - may be worth looking at this. I am surprised that you find the 260 a bit lacking as they have a great rep. Spud

Sometimes people just don't know the true value of their saws, I have picked up some bargains in my time, and been ripped off as well. What makes this guy look dodgey, has he a bad rep - selling at lower than market value may mean he is just a bit slow and hasn't done his homework:confused1: Spud

I pressure checked my saw and air was pissing out of this joint, personally I would use a decent quality jubilee clip on the saw, I think there may be a Husqvarna upgrade on this part - sure I have heard something about this. I am glad your saws piston is ok, many people just take out the H&L screw half a turn at a time until the saw works - for a short while. Glad I was of help Spud

I don't know for sure it they are the same material but would be pretty sure that they would be. As long as the pipe is a tight fit on the connection then you will be ok. Do yourself a favour and check that the impulse part that plugs in to the cylinder head is clear and isnt blocked, just been working on a Jonsered 2149 that had been seized, caused by the plastic impulse end slightly melting and blocking it - used a small drill to open it up. The previous owner had the H setting almost falling out to keep it running.....numpty:001_rolleyes: Also be aware that if you have the old plastic clip design carb boot then it is pretty crap as they leak and you would be better grinding off the clip and replacing it with a jubilee clip and sealing with a little liquid gasket - just done this fix and the saw now works fine - I gather this saw is prone to idle problems and my money is on the poor design of this boot. Good luck - hope the piston is still in good condition on your saw. Spud

Another great loss - beginning to feel old - Thin Lizzy were a great band, Phil Lynott was a good lead man and Gary Moore a great guitarist, sad that we have neither of them now - not a good way to end the weekend. Spud

Has anyone got one of those grey conical rear plug covers for a Husqvarna 335/338 top handled saw? I have a saw that is missing one - PM me if you have a spare to discuss cost. Cheers Spud