spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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All good advice - sounds like a weak mixture to me - is the exhaust thick and smokey or almost non existent ..... smokey = too rich You can test the breather idea by loosening the fuel cap and seeing if the saw picks up at all.
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I spend a bit of time on the US arb site and the US guys simply wouldn't put up with a lesser quality machine, ask yourself why Stihl only have the workshop manuals for download in the US - the figures talk!
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That bio oil is horrible stuff, I have had chains stuck in bars before now once the stuff has set - try a bit of turps. I had to cut the stuff out of the rails with a craft knife to get the saw running again. You could try soaking the parts in diesel or thinned oil. Yeuk:thumbdown:
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Never purchased saws from the US but stumbling blocks are import duty, getting in spares and local dealer support. It is easy to wipe out a lot of your savings.
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Personally, I would always try to salvage the OEM cylinder first as the plating and construction of the Mahle cylinders will be better than a low cost non original but if the plating has been scored through then the £60 option sounds a reasonable option. The owner at Mister Solutions is Andy Holtham - a good guy and an honest bloke - you could try phoning him and asking how many he has done and if he has had any returns! I would inspect any non genuine parts and ensure clearances and finish are acceptable before fitting.
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Take the muffler off and look at the piston - if it is scored - 9 times out of 10 it is, then ebay it for spares - £25 roughly. If the piston is ok then the spring will be a couple of quid - I have probably got one somewhere and checking the spark and fuel wouldbe the next step. If it is running it is worth £50 - £65 depending on overall condition. Are they any good? Typical home owner saw, a poor mans MS170/180 and would be blown away by anything from Stihl/Husqvarna in the 45cc range. I have personally given up on repairing these as they are worth bugger all and it really isn't worth the time working on them unless it is for a friend or neighbour!
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Thats good - at least it may see light of day again after some TLC!
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Could be a blocked muffler or blocked spark arrestor - my brother had a Husqvarna pole cutter and had to split the muffler, remove the baffle plate, get it red hot to get rid of the carbon then opened up the holes and reasembled - has worked fine for a couple of years unlike the dealer who "fixed" it before me! I usually strip the carb, check the orientation of the gaskets - often re-assembled in incorrect order, check the gauze filter in the top pumping section of the carb & clean, remove the H&L screw and blast some cleaner down the holes and re-assemble. It is worth pressure checking the carb, it is possible the needle valve is leaking. Also check the impulse line, if the pumping action of the crank to the carb is intermittant, it can cause some problems. Worth checking for carbon build up on the exhaust port and tightness of carb to cylinder. There - that should keep you busy:thumbup: Spud
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Hope you didn't throw it, I would have given you a few bucks for it!
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If it is a breather and you seal it up, it will cause a vacuum and stop the saw oiling and that will kill your chain and bar. It is probably the coating of oil in the tank around the breather popping a bit of oil out - nothing to really worry about! Spud
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Been out of the country so sorry for the late answer - it depends on what you want and what you have to offer in parts - the side covers for these saws are like gold dust - you can get new spares but the whole assembly would be expensive. Send me a personal mail to take this offline with what you are proposing and will see what works. Cheers
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You are now a trained gynacologist:thumbup:
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It is probably the breather, it may seep a little but shouldn't drain the tank - post a photo and I will look at the IPL to identify it:thumbup:
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Strange - isn't listed under Stihl 441 on Oregon Chain.com - OREGON® Hand Held Chain Saw Replacement Parts Spud
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Oh - if you want to throw it - throw it my way:thumbup:
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You will find that someone has fully undone the adjuster and then done it up without pushing the oil pump gear shaft in to the pump before doing up the adjuster. This bends the shaft and will strip the pinion (worm drive) in two seconds. You will need to take the pump off and remove the gear shaft (the one the pinion drives), get it on a flat surface and see if it is bent, if it is, you can straighten them but it isn't easy. This is one of the weak points of the saw - otherwise they can be little belters. If you get stuck and want me to look at it then feel free to PM me but would lay money down this is the fault. PS - don't knock Huskys - they are good machines and in my experience it is misuse and lack of maintenance that kills them! Spud
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Looked at Gustharts and Oregon Chain - I think you should add rocking horse manure on to that list - can only find the 7 rim:thumbdown: Spud
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That aluminium transfer hasn't been caused by small or big end failure, I can't see any damage in the combustion chamber or damage to the ports, these saws suffer from leaking carb boots and leaking decomp valves, this gives a lean mix and eventual seizure - a pressure check would concur!
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Yes, I did think of that and to be honest, I am the same - get the saw just before TDC and give it a good heave, the only saw I have needed a decomp on is the 298 I have, that really pulls your arm off - thought it was seized when I got it! The 357 X 2 will be for sale at some stage and wanted to get the valves working for the future owner who may not be 6'2" and 15 stone!! Spud
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Decided to fit a standard decomp valve on the two I have and fit a cap on the pipe that vents in to the crankcase - think the only reason for the vent is to meet US EPA rules. Both have faulty valves and both show slight signs of seizure so will be a good improvement on this. Should be able to get both running well.
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Mmmm Next you will be after a longboat, a hard hat with horns on it and a big beard:laugh1: Not being funny but this forum is entitled chainsaw....its all in the name you know:001_tt2: Just joking around:thumbup: Spud PS - do you want the axe ported or tuned up!!
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A lot of bearings used in machines are standard bearings that equipment manufactures give their own part number and charge a fortune for. Critical dims are outer diameter, inside diameter and width, once you have this, go here - Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oilite Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust and use their configurator to find the bearing for you, be sure to specify open or closed races as required etc Spud
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From a servicing and maintenance point of view, I find that Husqvarna parts lists, operator manuals and service manuals are far more accessible than with Stihl. I also find that Husky parts are easier to get hold of but can't knock the previous opinions on the saws themselves. Spud
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The two 10mm nuts hold the carb in place, I can't recall what the torx ones do but just take it easy, if you have poor recollection of form, fit and function then use a digital camera to take images so you can put the thing back together again. Put the parts from each stage in to separate containers - eassy to re-assemble this way. Good luck Spud
