spudulike

357XPs are good midweight machines, not too heavy, AVs are pretty good, will take an 18" bar. They do have their own issues but tell me a saw that doesn't!

I know, I was talking about chemical compositions known as salts and not table salt. When acid is mixed with alkali, you get a salt and water and I was pointing out that by "salt" I was not meaning table salt - chemistry:001_rolleyes:

Thar alkali wil neutralise the acid and I believe, produces a salt plus water and I am not talking table salt!

Yes, the first 346XP was 45cc and then increased to 50cc with the NE version and gained a silver clutch cover!

Mine was the controller PCB on the drive getting hot, very hot. Freezing it made it work for a while, just one of those ideas that worked. The old rig was overclocked to the point the main power connector actually started to melt:lol:

Sorry, I thought you were cutting wood, if it is cutting bananas you need a special chain:lol: Common banana cutting is caused by the rails being splayed causing chain roll or the rails being an uneven height causing the chain to sit at an angle. Uneven sharpening may cause it but less likely than bar wear.

Chemical - either Acid of strong alkali, both work. Hydrochloric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide do the job.

I thought the freezer bag was just my own silly idea that sorted my own issue out, seems it is a common place fix to a HD that overheats and fails:thumbup:

I think the answer may be that the OWNER lives longer with Aspen:lol: My own take from what I have seen - many machines come in seized, many down to old fuel or dubious fuel. Aspen will stop that. It will not stop seizure down to air leaks or badly adjusted carbs. It will give home/light users a simple solution to the old "what two mix should I use" question and no leaving the fuel in the tank until the next season as many home users will do! Aspen keeps the engine clean, the piston, pot and plug stay remarkably clear of carbon deposits so less likely to cause carbon damage. Aspen doesn't give off that acrid two stroke stink, where I believe it is really good is when cutting hedges. Doing this you are generally on top of the machine and getting a face full of exhaust and Aspen makes this close contact more bearable. These trimmers also have very small exhaust ports that often get clogged with carbon more so than saws and Aspen will stop this. There are moves to use more ethanol in our fuel and this can absorb water causing all sorts of issues with rubber parts and aluminium carbs - the US are ahead on this and have suffered for years:thumbdown: It is your choice if you use it and unlike others, do not sell it or have any affiliation to Aspen so what I have written is my own opinion and of no commercial gain.

I have only had one diaphragm to replace that had gone so hard that it wouldn't flex enough to open the needle valve. I have replaced many that are a bit passed it but still functioning OK. The piece of equipment was a 20 year old Zenoah strimmer! The usual issue is the fuel lines hardening and contracting causing fuel leaks, had many of these!

Sounds like some good advice, I had a HDD fail and noticed it got damn hot so tried putting it in the freezer and after three stints had most of the info off it. Forget trying to boot it, take it out and run it as a slave disk on a working machine as I suggested earlier. As this fella says, putting software n the disk will overwrite data and that isn't good as you will not be able to retrieve it again. Don't give up until you really know it is toast!

The 026 Nemasis in the day was the 346XP, use the two and you will want the 346XP, the former was the 254XP, another fine saw and the latter, the 550XP which I have not used to date.

Blimey Jon, you are down with the kids:lol: Think most of us oldies prefer memory sticks and external hard drives:thumbup:

Sounds like lack of fuel at high speed to me. Things like the carb gauze strainer, holed fuel line, blocked fuel filter, blocked tank breather are all prime causes. It may also be the compression is down or the saw has had a partial seize. That should keep you busy Sunday:sneaky2: And what saw is it:confused1:

Yup, it will increase the risk of seizure if your saw is set a little lean or has a small airleak . doing this will lean down the mixture and the extra air or lack of fuel is what causes the saw to run a little fast on idle just before stopping. If it is on a fast idle, it is relatively safe but on full bore in a deep cut with perhaps a fault as above - not worth the risk!

The first thing to do is to get the hard disk to someone who knows what they are up to. You can buy a USB interface cable that will connect your hard disk that may be IDE, EIDE or SATA to another machine or laptop. Having done this, you need to see if it becomes listed on the new PC as a new drive. If it does then see if you can see your files and pull them off on to the new PC. If you cant see the drive or the files then you can get software that will retreive damaged files. How Windows works is that when a file is deleted, Windows meerly changes the first letter of the file and calls it "deleted" but it actually isn't until it is overwritten by further information. It is very unlikely that your disk has "deleted itself" unless you have formatted it using full format or it has been struck by a real bad virus. It is possible the boot sector has become corrupted but again, it may be possible to retreive the info. Get the disk out, get the correct USB to whichever connection your disk uses and plug it in to a laptop/PC. If the disk controller has failed, you may be able to get a specialist to rebuild it but it is unlikely to be cheap. If the read heads have hit the disk it may be toast. Good luck And yes, I do a bit on PCs as well as saws!!

Try changing the one under the oil pump - it is usually this one that goes!

Thanks Patrick:thumbup:

What the rest said.....125psi plus compression on small engines to run with 150psi being typical but does depend on the engine type and design. You have probably trashed a new ring, a piston doesn't seize that badly without transferring aluminium to the bore of the cylinder!

Glad it all worked out. Sometimes the petrol evaporates and leaves a thick oil residue especially if an overly rich mix has been used and this can gunk a carb up. All good, hope it gives a bit of service now:thumbup:

Probably a little lean on the L screw!

A visual on the carb boot will tell you the thing isn't badly split. Another check is getting the saw idling and on the deck and, holding the engine down, move the top handle around with force and see if the idle changes at all. If it does, the thing is possibly leaking. The only way to check crank seals is to pressure & vac test with the correct equipment. You can just replace them if you are OK doing that. You could take the clutch and oil pinion off and then start the saw, put it on its side and pour thick oil around the oil pump and see if the speed drops but this is hypothetical, will only check one seal and isn't something I have tried! An air leak will tend to make the saw hang on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut after reving the saw - the revs should drop immediately on a well set saw. You will also note the top end revs being too high and the L screw needing to be more than one turn out to get a satisfactory idle. You will also chase the idle setting to get it correct rather than it being easy to set, working on one turn out as it should!

Could be a slight air leak, the carb may need a tweak, the carb acclerator pump may be showing early signs of failing, it may just need a slight increase in idle speed.

Don't forget the impulse line underneath the air box either!

No idea but I know the fella with this beast of a tactor unit