spudulike

It is probably a fuel system fault if the flywheel and key (told you so) is now OK. Check the fuel line is ok and the carb internal gauze filter, they will be the common issues.

If you are not in the box then it isn't too late to change, I was 20 years in Manufacturing, 13 in Sales and will be most likely running my own business from January so never too late to change direction:thumbup:

Take the flywheel off, check the key in the crank and the flywheel for slot damage. Check it only has one slot (think it was the 084 that had two at one stage) theme sure the cool to flywheel gap is correct

Either the flywheel hasn't been fitted correctly or the coil may have taken a heavy knock. I would take the flywheel off again and check the key is still OK . The flywheel doesn't have two keyways does it? The backfire is a sign that the ignition is very retarded and is ignighting on the downward stroke.

There used to be adaptors on ebay but there don't appear to be any on there now. Should be relatively easy to make one from a spare greasing cap screw. You can just push the grease gun against the filler and it will seal enough to fill the gearbox cavity.

How about getting a pic up of the knurled bass bit so we can see it for what it is - a picture paints a thousand words or something like that or was it Telly Savalas:lol:

Have you taken the plug out, turned the ignition off and then pulled the saw over fast with the saw upside down - fuel can puddle in the bottom of the saw and make it a bitch to start. Once this is cleared, get the plug nice and hot, put it in the saw quickly and pull the choke out, push it back in to set the fast idle and pull the saw over fast and hopefully it will go. If it doesn't fire, you can hold the throttle open with the right hand whilst pulling the recoil with the left - it is a little "redneck" but can get a semi flooded saw going again!

Its all right Jon, Barrie and I like a bit of banter, nothing ever meant by it - life is too short:thumbup:

The compression should be 145+, 150 is typical on a well used but healthy engine and 170psi is a very healthy reading on a run in engine. Some saw types always read low and some high, a saw like this I would expect 150-170 on a decent engine and that is on a Gunson High Gauge, some gauges will only work corrctly on a car engine due to the type of valve in the gauge!

Chinese counterfeit:lol:

A working saw, in basic terms, needs compression, spark and fuel. Life is never quite that simple but it helps to check these things out. If the saw has 150+ compression and the plug is sparking then the fuel system is probably at fault. Is the plug wet with fuel after 10 - 15 pulls on the choke - it should be saturated! It is possible that the metering arm is stuck open or the choke plate isn't sealing the carb properly plus there is a multitude of other things it could be such as split fuel lines and hardened diaphragms etc. Is it time to give it to someone with experience?

Is it fun giving carbs blow jobs:lol::lol: Thought it was only me, seems I may be normal after all:blushing:

Just having a laugh old boy, I am sure it will turn out OK in the end.....especially if the OP lives near you:thumbup:

Yes, Barrie is a bad man:lol: He has probably destroyed the carb by now.....there, that fixed it real good:001_huh:

Oh bugger:blushing: Looks like Rowena will be getting a call soon:001_rolleyes:

You have to speculate to accumulate and anyway, I got a set now - just thought £30 for a single screwdriver was a rip off - got a set, including the Pac Man one......Oooooooooeeeeee:001_tt2:

No, she gets right arsey when I do and she needs the fish fingers out or a loaf of bread:001_rolleyes:

I know, piss up in Wales:thumbup: if you are ever passing, you may find me in the workshop:001_huh:

Glad you have found someone else to torment:lol: I think they still need a carver at the Country Show:sneaky2:

I just use a normal off the shelf HT lithium grease, nothing special. The important thing is to ensure that the gearbox is always well greased. Grease is cheap, gear heads are not and lack of lubricant seizes bearings and gears........simple:thumbup:

With the damage that the saw had it is a good testimony it is actually running let alone with good speed. The porting and muffler mod will increase flow and the increase in fuel will pull more fuel up from the carb - same way the choke works by building pressure in the carb bore. If you were still local I could reset the carb and load the latest firmware but hey ho:thumbdown: It may be worth your local dealer doing a master reset on it to let it recallibrte again! Has your 540 landed yet?

Got to keep up to date with technology and it means that I can reset Husky auto-tunes if they play up. Interesting on the carbs as there is an audible click movement on the H&L screws and it allows to update saw firmware and reset to default - all good stuff:thumbup:

Personally I would give it one pump a week on the grease gun and then once a month until it seeps - there will be service data on each machine which will be very similar for each similar machine for hourly usage but I will always just fill the thing with grease on servicing irrespective of hours and what the owner says as it is better to have too much than very little! You could try filling it fully and then using it for a week and then do the same to see how much grease goes in and that way you will have a definitive answer:thumbup: You can buy a Stihl filler cap with a nipple attachment so a grease gun can be used and most other pro kit has 1-3 nipples for greasing. It is black when it comes out but these trimmer units are £300+ so best keep them well greased. Stihl do do a tube of very expensive grease that you screw in to their typical filler - probably teaching you to suck eggs (Not the eggs on Arbtalk I hasten to add:blushing:) You can get away with pushing a grease gun against the filler hole, it works as well!

You need to regularly grease the gearbox on trimmers. They can get pretty hot so you need an HT grease that remains relatively thick at high temperature but the important thing is to pump grease in regularly. I usually pump until I get a slight bit coming out of where the blades exit the gearbox. I am guessing that you hadn't greased properly or at all and it was probably this and an ingress of water that did the bearings in rather than WD40 although it is true that WD40 will wash away grease but wouldn't expect a slight amount entering the gearbox would do this. I do use WD40 to protect during storage but an engine oil or even chain oil will work well as a general lubricant as it is thicker and offers better lubrication than a thinner penetrating oil like WD40.

Got a T540XP in which is poor running, having just received the new interface kit for Autotune machines, I plugged it in and it showed a code 017 which comes up as a possible seize. I am currently stripping the saw to see what gives. The beauty with this interface kit is that you can test the saws control systems, update the firmware and if the machine has had major work, can reset the machine back to factory defaults.