spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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RD250LC.....nice, that makes us from the same era:thumbup: The piston is toast, if you can salvage the originnal cylinder it is worth it but also not too easy for a complete novice. GHS are a good supplier, the weak points on many aftermarket pistons are the rings and circlips. If you buy the kit, check the old piston rings will fit before purchasing new. The circlips can be used off the original piston can be used but make sure they are not deformed and are fitted correctly on the new piston. Doing the job isn't too hard but like said before, make sure the reason for failure is investigated or you may just fry your new kit. A pressure and vacuum check will normally be used to make sure there are no airleaks and check the carb and fuel pipe are in good shape!
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I use a tankless bench top Ferm unit, it gives a good blast of compressed air and then needs a cuple of seconds to build up back pressure again. It has been a useful unit and you can get air within seconds so no charging up a tank! Not so good for paint spraying or anything that needs continous high pressure air though!
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A too large flywheel to coil gap can produce a spark when the coil is cold but will fail when hot and then be OK again when it cools - had a MS460 like that once. Also coils can fail when warm/hot!
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It should be relatively straight forward, just push the bolts through a bit of card and write by each one where it came from. There may be AV limit bolts and rubber buffers that will need to be removed. The fuel line will need to be disconnected and pulled through the floor of the airbox and the throttle linkage will need to be disconnected. it shouldn't be too bad for a beginner, just make sure the fuel line doesn't get kinked on reassembly - you may need to transfer it to the new handle, forceps or long handled long nose pliers are good for the job.
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The piston may have nipped up slightly and the lowered compression when warm may be giving issues. It may just need a retune of the carb. If it is months old - get the dealer involved as it will still be in warranty!
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Fingers crossed it works OK!
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Just make sure you get the right diameter lead - 5mm and push a pilot hole through the part where you are fitting the spur - an awl will do it but make it small so it is a tight fit - some of us have the correct service tool:sneaky2: Good luck:thumbup1:
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Some HT wires screw in to the coil and some are epoxy potted - see if it unscrews after checking to see if the wire is glued in. The parts list shows it to come out! The wire spur should push through the HT wire, if it keeps coming out, bend it and push it through the other way - 90 degrees to the original hole and replace the rubber cap.
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I think it was Gardenkits thread, moving on non economical repairs for donations to charity - nice thought:thumbup:
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The only one I have used was for a combi unit and the ignition timing was completely wrong! I believe it was just the manufacturers lack of understanding that there were a number of crank/flywheel variants! Whats it for Matt, often you can get OEM from ebay. The only issue I would have is reliabillity and how good the ignition timing advance and retard compares to the OEM unit!
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I would assume that the clutch is missing from the one without the oiler gear on it or the clutch drum is incorrect and less deep than the one with the oiler gear!
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Unfortunately it is a blind hole and not that deep but you should, with care, be able to put a helicoil in it. If that fails, try an insert. If you drill too far, it will go straight in to the oil tank so go carefully!
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I have known these carbs to take a while to settle. It will probably be OK now. The gauze filters can sometimes look fine but have a dried scum in the open holes - worth taking it out and giving a close look if it persists.
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Yup , he is old school, good engineer and nice fella as well. One of life's gents:thumbup:
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You will typically get hardening of the fuel line and leaks around the grommet part where it seals in to the tank. The diaphragms will also harden and is more down to the damage caused by the standard fuel and its absence now you are on Aspen. I have had one or two issues converting older machines and would personally give the carb a good clean out, fit new diaphragms/gaskets, fuel line and filter and that will probably do it. If this fails then either an ultrasonic cleaner on the carb or new one - Do NOT overlook the fact that something else may have failed and is really causing the issue!
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Try this, it should answer your questions - http://www.declicmotoculture.com/fs/eclates/6h3ge-028.pdf
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I don't know where you stuck the needle but your "main jet" is in fact a one way check valve that acts like a jet but only lets fuel flow one way. It IS possible that jet has stuck and removing the H screw and gettinng some carb cleaner or WD40 down it will tell you if it is blocked - expect to see a spray of fuel entering the bore of the carb when looking down it. The symptoms you have are also the same for a big air leak, a small seize, a semi blocked gauze filter, holed fuel line etc!
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You have three AV mounts on the MS200, I know you know which one has gone but sharing would be nice:sneaky2::lol:
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Much of what I do is via couriers, seems to work OK in most cases:thumbup: I guess that is what you mean?
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Not sure I wish to "take the transfer puff" in my workshop, you sure it is legal???
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Obviously not taking it to the right "pro" then:sneaky2:
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Think I had one a while ago!
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Yup, the Vcoil kit is generally good and I also grind to size to ensure a good fit.
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I use a bit of Loctite 270, once the insert or hellicoil is in, it will NEVER come out:thumbup:
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That was a carbide steel one after the aluminium one popped but that was more to do with the receiving thread not being good.
