spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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That's good news considering the cylinder was close to being shagged when I got it. Engines tend to bed in and produce extra compression after many hours, even damaged ones get bedded in as long as they can make enough compression. Glad all is good with it after the work Martin and I put in:thumbup:
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That piston looks toast to me and 125psi on an engine is awfully low, 175psi is good on a machine that has been run in and is low hours.......or modified:sneaky2: The exhaust can be blanked off with rubber sheet between it and the cylinder, the inlet is usually the same or using rubber bungs/plastic plugs etc I am assuming you are describing a pressure or vacuum tester??? You really need to do both as seals can leak under one and seal under another!
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It looks like the photo is on the inlet side of the cylinder. It is almost impossible to get heat seize on this side and would think the piston has been damaged by the ingress of wood chip in through a damaged air filter. I would check the bore and plating is in good condition and if it is OK, would fit a new Meteor piston and lightly hone the bore to allow it to bed in quickly.
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How is the beast going Matt, Martin said it was hanging together well and going like stink:thumbup:..................that's the 560!
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Bet that made your eyes water:thumbdown: It is looking at the damage just after doing it that is the worst bit and finding it is a bit more serious rather than just a flesh wound!
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Get a pic up of the piston, you can tell if it is worn by how much it rocks in the bore!
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Yup, 115psi is very low and would point to a busted ring, semi seized piston, scoring or similar. I would expect 150psi from an engine in working condition. Check the piston through the exhaust port if you haven't already and if you have, the clinder may need removing!
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Reckon only one in ten MS200Ts come in with one intact so I buy them 6 at a time and always fit new if they are missing, important on a climbing saw!
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And it isn't skin deep either:thumbup:
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Been back on the MS200Ts, had a couple of saws in, both as dirty as each other, refurbed both of them and below are the images of one and another once done. One had a stripped spark plug thread so put in a solid insert. The important bit is getting the thread in straight, making sure it is well formed so the insert doesn't go anywhere and ensuring the insert is making good contact with the rest of the cylinder - a little Loctite 270 is good on this job. I was rather pleased with this one, a nice neat job:thumbup:
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Sounds like we need a few lumps of timber, a good selection of saws and a camera to record some cookie making:thumbup: It has been a while since the last "boys day out" we had a few years ago!
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Oh bugger has Jon Mendiplogs dropped that cizzer off again:lol:
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Thats your age Barrie, the only reason I carry business cards is to remind me who I am and where I should be going each day of the week:001_huh::lol:
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Nah, I was quoting Alexei Sayles song "Hello John got a new motor" a spin off from the "Young Ones" - he is a comedian and actor and you needed to be around in the 1980s!
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Thats a nice touch and good idea - glad the Husqvarna engineers have their heads screwed on:thumbup:
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Think we have been here before - the best one just sat there at my feet spinning like crazy without going anywhere, one dissapeared down the drive and the worst one exploded in to bits - bit like russian roulette as to what the parts hit first:lol: I laugh but it is dangerous to fire a saw up without the cover on and am more sensible now, putting a bar and chain on saws I test. I do the clutches up tight after service as I know it is possible the owner may fire the saw up without the cover on and don't want to lose any customers like that. Be careful out there!
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It is worthwhile in respect that they often get blocked up and stop the exhaust flowing but as a way of getting an instant tune up, I think you may be disappointed. More performance comes with a fair bit of extra work then this - you get out what you put in:thumbup:
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I had a hobby once, refurbing saws, I then ported some and then I came on this site:001_rolleyes: and it sort of ballooned
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If a squirt of WD40 to the sides of the carb changes the idle speed then it is new carb time, not much you can do to rectify that. I have had to do a 039 and 038 with exactly this fault.
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Never used non OEM on MS200s, always managed to salvage them and get them running OK!
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I would say is that in your underpants but fear it may be lost on 99.9% of guys on here:001_rolleyes:
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I am wondering if you are seeing what I have had on 357XPs. Sometimes you don't mesh the oiler worm drive pinion with the clutch drum correctly causing the clutch drum to not spin correctly. I have also seen freshly rebuilt saws partially spin their clutch off and then they do up again once wood is cut or the brake applied but the mesh between the worm pinion and drum has been lost and it buggers up the oiler pinion worm outer where it meshes when it does up again making the clutch drum tight and stops the saw idling. I would check the part of the oiler pinion where the clutch drum slides in to it - chances are it is mullered! How difficult can it be:lol: Sometimes it is just down to lack of experience. Personally I always tighten clutches up as it stops them flying off and the 357 incident was an interesting one that really pissed me off:001_rolleyes: You cant always guarantee the owner isn't going to fire up a saw without a bar fitted!
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OK, I thought you were just being a google expert like so many others:lol: apologies, think we have gone far enough on this - the acid makes the aluminium go black, soft and it bubbles some.......it works not sure there is much more to say!
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Glad you can use Google Eddy, I am trying to remember O level Chemistry from 35 years ago:001_rolleyes: I guess you are saying tha the reaction between the acid and the base releases the hydrogen from the acid and the base replaces it producing the salt:sneaky2: I think we are boring everyone now - use muriatic acid:thumbup:
