spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Nice job Barrie - didn't think you bothered with fixes like that! Been porting a 357XP today and fixing a seized 142 yesterday, lots on as always. lethargic MS201 tomorrow and Husqy 181SE after that!
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I get one or two in, most owners are completely unaware and give them the benefit of the doubt, especially if the saw has come in as an under the bench wreck of little value!
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I guess you have checked the piston to make sure it is OK. Carb kits are better value from Rowena Motors and are the original carb manufacturer kits rather than Stihl/Husky rebrands! Not got experience of these machines but it sounds like high speed fuel issues to me!
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I have a couple of posts on my "What's on your bench" thread showing how I fix plug holes if interedted!
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Must be the resident dragon getting angry:lol:
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We used to use that word a fair bit and in my past world it was hammering a soft press tool die after the die had opened up a bit and the metal needed closing in so the tool could be resheared! Rim drives will be easier on the tie straps than spur sprockets!
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See what you mean - I never use inserts that have a top collar on them, I grind them down so they are the exact length of the existing hole and use a high temperatere permanent threadlock compound and would warranty my repairs for life of the machine! My advice is to fit a full length threaded insert or purchase an oversize one and grind to size and use a decent threadlock as above. If that doesnt work then I may be able to try a larger insert but would need the cylinder. As you probably know, having the insert is just one part of the story. Doing the machining work and having the correct tools is the other!
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If the Timesert is being blown out then the receiving thread hasn't been cut well - is the whole insert coming out or is it splitting in two or is just the spark plug coming out? Generally the next option is a thicker walled insert. I use a thin walled stainless insert but if someone has already butchered it, there is the option of a carbon steel insert by Ezlok - the difficult bit always be reaming the hole and cutting the new thread plus you need a fair bit of land on these inserts.
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Had me wondering, that was in fine condition though!
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Bet Stevie B loves his Sunday nights:thumbdown:
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Database effor when making posts!! Just did it when making this one!
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Looks like we will have to wait for the spring then:confused1:
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Just keep an eye on the needle bearing and swap it as soon as the clutch drum gets a little wobbly - the rest of the saw seems OK......don't worry:thumbup:
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Ah, they are using more plastic............just like those £75 Chinese jobbies on ebay.........and??? If you take a 560XP apart, you will note that it has clever transfer ports in front of the saw - there are good technical reasons for doing this down to transfer velocity. You also note the length and straightness of the inlet tract and the angle of the exhaust/cylinder optimising scavanging - this was the FIRST saw I had seen such things on and I haven't even mentioned the autotune. Now this design IS radical.......and the MS362........??? Have they stopped it eating needle bearings??
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We have a Stovax Riva, been good and great heat, had it 13 years and replaced the fire bricks once and made a stronger internal baffle plate as we got a build up of ash on it, the wife didn't notice and it warped but very happy with it.
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Think I have had enough of peering in cardboard boxes and saying WTF.....really.........port this saw, you must be kidding.............does it actually run:001_rolleyes: Not your saws though, always well turned out and a joy by most standards. The worst offender.............that would be telling:sneaky2:
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Yeah, looks like some of your better stuff:sneaky2:
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OK, OEM then......only seen one saw with similar damage and it was on a high hours MS260 that had that much piston slap, it actually shattered through fatigue. Golf are OK pistons, just check it over before fitting but it should give some more life to the saw - not too much to lose!
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Yes, as above, you pressure check at around 10psi so a gauge reading 300psi is unsuitable. You can use the Gunson Low gauge and suitable methods of creating both vacuum and pressure with a suitable valve system as this gauge has suitable ranges in both positive and negative pressure!
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So whats radical??? Fuel injection, carbon fibre bar????? Why release a new model with an old models name?? The 362s I have played with have been OKish but share the MS261s traits of eating clutch bearings and oiler worm drives:thumbdown: Not very radical unless you like fitting spares:confused1:
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If anyone on this site buys it, I DO NOT want to get it going, judging by the looks of it the owner found it in the village pond
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<p>Oh dear, if life was that simple. A clam engine is a type of engine found on a lot of homeowner saws, On a tyical pro saw, the lower crankcases form the lower part of the engine, are split vertically (the crank sits in the two crankcase halves) and the cylinder bolts down on to the crankcases making them relatively easy to work on.</p>
<p>On a clam engine, the engine sits in a plastic cradle that holds the metal engine, it splits horizontaly, the lower cylinder forms the top part of the crankcase and the lower crankcase is like a clam shell which clamps the crankshaft between the cylinder bottom and the lower clam.</p>
<p>This effectively means that the saw needs to be completely stripped down to get the cylinder off, including, carb, flywheel, clutch, oil pump etc etc and on the 029/039, the rear handle, covers and top handle need removing.</p>
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We have had mice and rats, mice I can put up with in the garden but had them in the loft and workshop so got a load of rat poison from Wilkinson and it sorted them out PDQ:thumbup: Living out in the sticks, we get rats in the garden after the birdfood in the winter but the 0.22 PCP deals with them - had the thing in bits once and the wife screamed "we have a rat in the garden" - not a follow up to UB40s Rat in the Kitchen:lol: Grabbed the .177 TX200 and dispatched the big bugger - pretty effective:thumbup: The neighbour said that he needed my air rifle one year as he had seen a rat - the wife said "don't worry, Steve has shot it":thumbup: Rats - hate them:thumbdown:
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<p>Yup, sounds about right and if the original part, assuming it is OEM, isn't salvageable then the Hyway kit is probably your best option. The 029/039 are bitches to work on, not just because they are clam engines but the design makes it even more difficult due to things like the bar stud nearest the clutch being screwed in to the lower clam and usually locked solid plus beware the oil pump plastic union in to the plastic engine cradle - easy to damage!</p>
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<p>Good luck with it, the job will be a good learning curve!</p>
<p>Steve</p>
