spudulike

Thanks for letting us know, shows that some of us know what we are doing....the other lot take the piss...lots:001_tt2:

The Chinese will bring out aftermarket kit once a market has established on a certain saw type. They will not tool up until they know there is a requirement for non OEM parts. This will generally be when the saw is a few years old and the OEM parts make repair too expensive. You can get aftermarket pistons for most of the 3 series saws and some 5 series saws now. If the pot isn't badly damaged, you should be able to salvage it and then just fit a new piston. You really need to know why it failed and also the software/firmware should be reset/updated as it may have been running lean causing the failure. Lots of pics on my thread showing before and after cylinder salvage. Some were really quite bad and always gives me satisfaction after the cleaning process reveals a nice bore finish again:thumbup:

I have used this paint as it has some resistance to petrol but only after it is baked and has had time to fully harden and cure. I did do one of my first saws with it and looked in horror as the petrol dissolved the paint on my freshly painted saw. Rustoleum Aerosols - Decorative Aerosol Spray Paints: I don't like old bangers that are painted as many just "Paint an old banger" but if you are doing a full rebuild on a classic or well used saw and want it to look good then fine. Just make sure the metal is prepared and degreased thoroughly before spraying.

I wish you luck with that rebuild, not really a starter machine to refurbish but a good project......I guess:001_huh:

You lot are just tryiing to increase log sales:sneaky2:

Sometimes the nose sprocket can jam up if you are cutting with it buried in a hard wood like oak. As others have said, check the chain and bar match.

The springs tend to wear on the hooks and eventually break. They sometimes go if the spring has poor temper but I remove and check them as part of a full service and change them if the hooks are worn.

You could try it, pressure and vac test after reassembly but guess for the price of a new set of seals.......

The biggest problem with painting saws is finding paint that resists petrol. IMO, a painted saw is a high hours machine trying to be a low hours machine for the reason of sale unless it is a genuine rebuild of a vintage machine.

Always wondered why you boys had fingers missing.....it is all becoming clear:001_rolleyes:

It depends on what saw it is as some are difficult but there is a good chance the seals will be OK even if the saw is split. The flywheel side is generally softer on the seal than the clutch side so if you can leave the crank in the clutch side, it would be better as the seal is unlikely to get damaged on the crank tapered end. Yeah - TS400!!

I dislike these saws, if you buy it, good luck with removing the bar mount stud nearest the clutch..........wanna ask me why..........don't bother, just walk away! They are a bitch to work on compared to many! £30 - 50 is good though, buy it, bung it on ebay, sell it and use the proceeds to buy something nicer!

I started clearing ditches of wood and any other local source, got a fair bit off family and guys on here, since then I have learnt more than I care to mention about chainsaws. I have repaired and tuned all my own saws - purchased for pennies and now worth hundreds plus I now have a tidy repair business and many happy customers. Not a bad turn of events IMO:thumbup:

Another job for the weekend was fitting a new extraction pump in the workshop to replace the bathroom one that was never really man enough. Sure, it looks sort of drug dealer cannabis grower but this mother really sucks. It is a big blue Stube in line fan and shifts around 700 cubic metres of air per hour. I fired up the old MS340 and that really smoked due to the oil in the bore where I had dismantled it earlier. I watched intrigued as thin strands of smoke were pulled toward the duct and out of my workshop and it was clear as a bell in around 5 minutes. I have wired in a dimmer to control the speed so whilst I am working, I can have it spinning over slowly and increase it when I am mixing fuel or have a saw to fire up for a short while if it is early or late in the day. I am also clearing out some of the old kit I have and throwing away some of the old rubbish you acquire - it should look a fair bit tidier soon but don't expect a Gardenkit type of obsessively organised bench!

I have a fair number of MS200Ts in for porting & tuning. I think many like the extra torque and power I give the saw and it allows them to use a 14" bar and carry on using this smaller saw in the tree rather than calling for a larger saw. It just means less fatigue at the end of the day:thumbup:

What I did this weekend.....lots of MS200Ts in again. Always a pleasure working on these small saws as I find them pretty easy and have a high level of success fixing all their faults and returning a decent running machine. One unfortunate problem happened when I was tightening the flywheel on a MS201. I usually do these up pretty tight to stop the obvious happening. This one made a ringing "PING" and it was rubbing on the inner crankcase so popped it off and my fears were realised, this one had a fracture and was scrap. I guess the modern castings are not as strong as the old ones as I have done many MS200Ts without this issue - order placed with the new part at my expense...ouch:blushing: Other than that, had an old MS340 in, lots of airleaks traced back to a bad cylinder base gasket and split impulse line. They were so difficult to find, I ended up taking the rear handle off to speed things up! After this, I had the saw failing to start every time I took the fuel cap off. I saw the fuel leaking from the high speed check valve in the carb and after a lot of tweaks, testing and cursing, I replaced the thin rubber diaphragm on the brand new carb with a typical thicker "normal" rubber one and all was good...bang on infact:thumbup:

Don't forget the longer bar will create more chain to bar friction which will slow the saw down even before you start cutting. I just hate a saw that is boggy and catchy in the cut, I would rather take two faster cuts with a 12" bar than one slow annoying one with a 16".

Excellent:thumbup:

If you read my posts from around three months ago, I had the same issue and did it with a dremmel but others had other ideas!

I see you have mastered the local dialect

OK, the saw doesn't run right:confused1: What doesen't it do? Idle, rev out, bogging, no power, splutters, revs too high, low??? It is a bit like saying to a doctor thet you don't feel right, put some meat on the bone and we may be able to pin point the fault although many of the common faults have been mentioned and the carb was the most likely issue - did it change the fault or running at all?

I think you may need a calendar to work out how many logs you may cut as it will be that slow on a 16", very boggy and slow!

Oh blimey, you are right, may have to change my Monica, I really didn't think my membership on here would balloon to these hights:blushing: Perhaps I should sue!

Yes, length is everything, mine is short but has good girth - thats the chimney:blushing:

I have tried firelighters and they can leave heavy black soots all over the place and fill the room with parafiny acrid smoke. Newspaper wasn't that great either. I have never used the night light candle idea but at least they won't stink the house out - stick a couple in and it may do the job! This is the cowl we used - Enjoy cosy smoke-free evenings round your stove this winter! – Windkat Chimney Cowls bloody expensive, the neighbour says it looks like a Dalek but it does a good job with consistent burning even in heavy winds and no smoking now....bloody Germans:lol: