spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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If flushing the tank and using thinned out oil doesn't clear it then pop the clutch off, remove the pump and check the oiler pinion and make sure the holes in the oil inlet and outlet on the pump are clear. It is also worth checking the breather and the oil pick up pipe and filter as well - it is often quicker to do this than trying other more obscure ways of clearing the issue!
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As the bulb fills with fuel, it will become more difficult to depress!
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Oh Lord:laola:
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The carb should have a cover on it usually held in place with a single big screw, take this cover off and check the gauze filter that is pushed in to the body of the carb. It will look like a recessed hole about the diameter of a pencil and at the bottom of it, there is a gauze strainer that often gets clogged with small particles that wash through from the fuel tank. If the saw has been left standing for a long while, it is possible a scum has formed and dried on this filter so it is worth removing using a small craft knife on the upturned edge of the gauze. If it isn't this, it may well be the metering arm height in the carb under the other cover. Remove the cover, remove the diaphragm, lift the metering arm around 1mm and reassemble - the arm should generally be in line with the outer body of the carb or sometimes flush with the floor of the metering section of the carb - it will be pretty obvious when you get to lok at it!
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Makes me wonder if there is a small crack or split somewhere that only lets oil out when the bar is in place and causing a restriction but when removed, the oil freely comes out of the right place. How difficult can this be:001_rolleyes:
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If oil is coming out of the oiler channel with the bar removed then if it doesn't come out of the bar on to the chain it sounds like the bar oil hole in the bar is blocked up, I take it you have checked this? Give the hole a bit of a blast with WD40 and go from there. Oak is bloody hard and does leave a brownish residue on the chain at the best of times and sucks out the oil. If the saw is working correctly, you will always be able to lay down a line of oil in a second or two by revving the saw and pointing the chain at a clean surface. It almost sounds like the bar is sealing off the oil channel and the oil is being forced out of somewhere else! The bar and chain are correct for the saw aren't they? The bar pushes right up to the bar mount surface doesn't it. There has to be a simple explanation:confused1:
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Mmm, it is turning round and round because you are not locking the crank in place. If knocking it against the compression won't drive it off then you need to use a piston stop but use either one that sits between the piston and squish band or rope in the plug hole. The piston stops that screw in to the plug hole may damage the piston crown if used, they are for plug holes that enter the combustion chamber from the very top.
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Yes but he is privileged to own one of my ported 357XPs, anything after this is a bit tame in comparison:001_rolleyes:
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Some machines have a breather down the bottom on the left hand side of the exhaust in the top of the oil tank and that is where some leak but your machine should have one of those round aluminium one way valves pushed in to the housing around the bar mount. I have only worked on MS390s and have to say it was one of the worst I have done - everything has to come off to get the cylinder off. Going back to the oiler, clean it up around the clutch and exhaust. Run it through some wood and take note if the chain gets dry, has a resin like dry substange on the cutters, becomes squeeky and dry sounding and tight to spin around the bar. If it does this, the saw is NOT oiling. If the chain looks relatively dry but will transfer oil to your finger if the chain is raised and your finger dragged along the drive links, then it is oiling - it shoud also spatter oil if revved flat out and poinnted at fresh cut wood. Don't, for God sake, check the chain with the machine running!!
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You should be running it flat out for shorter periods than you may do for a run in machine. You should be making the most of the new rough rings and bore to wear both to a good fit quickly which will give better compression. If you run an engine in slowly, it will glaze and it will take forever to bed in and make good compression. If you rev a saw in free air, you will get a lot of oil taken back in to the clutch and housing. If you cut wood, the oil is transfered to the wood and you get much less around the clutch. I tach many saws as part of a service and get a lot of residue oil left under the clutch cover. Run the saw in wood and see if the chain stays free running and the drive links slightly damp with oil when lifted out of the bar. It is possible that the oil system had a bit of an air lock and took a while to prime the system. A freshly rebuilt saw takes a little time to pull the oil through!
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Yes, green and yellow wire to the rear av bolt
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Possibly a leaking carb needle jet if you have excess fuel coming out of the back of the carb.
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Yes but you prefer Kielder more:thumbup:
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Not the L screw, what I meant is what happens if the idle LA screw is set to a fast idle, does it still die?
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So have you wound the idle right in to see what happens? "Seals" in the carb......what seals?? The MS230 has an accelerator pump as it has a C1Q carb and it sounds like the pump has failed or a welch plug is leaking! Looks like you have spent a lot of money chasing the wrong fault:thumbdown: Should have done a pressure and vac test first!
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Think that is pretty conclusive then:001_rolleyes:
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They didn't ask me for any trade references etc but I do make it easy by quoting the right carb model and pay straight away. Rowena are the best to deal with, a really good company!
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I will take in all those orphan MS200s, give them TLC and find new loving owners for them.....just call it a public service:sneaky2:
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Normal behaviour out here in the village, don't see what the fuss isall about, it guarantees good crops for next year:blushing:
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Well spotted - it looks like it may be a bit flat on one side but it could be the flash, also worth checking the receving hole is clear of crap otherwise it will distort the cover. Warped covers can be straightened a bit with a heatgun and brute force:thumbup:
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Typically you just set the idle so it is low enough that the chain doesn't spin, the clutch drum doesn't make a pinging noise but also the saw doesn't stall when it is moved, the brake applied or left for a while. You may need to adjust the L screw but usually turning it in to the point the revs pick up and nearly die and undoing it around 1/4 turn sets it about right!
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Thats the pin I was talking about - hope we are on the way to getting some sort of closure on this one:thumbup:
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One other question, is the locating pin still in the side cover? the one that locates in to the cylinder. If this is missing, the cover will not sit as it should.
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Personally, I would remove the clutch drum, place it in the middle of the brake band and see if the band is deformed or catching in the area where the band keeps breaking. It is also worth checking the clutch drum bearing is good and there isn't excessive play/wobble on the drum. It is also worth checking that the brake band is pushing up against all the supports in the cover when it is off - just making sure it isn't constricting a little and rubbing on the drum all the time - the most likely reason for this wear! The oil is of no consequence, the drum gets oiled from the chain oiler so it is normal for it to be well oiled.
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If you want to post just the carb down, I can rebuild it and get it back to you but you need to be fast as I have a week off in a weeks time. The repair will only take 24hrs but if the fault is still there then it will be something else wrong with the saw - impulse line, seals, split manifold etc! PM me if you want a cost!
