spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Ah, I cleared the last Tsunami of broken kit and am on a even keel again but am awaiting another load I backed of until I got back a day ago from holiday. I can always fit in another MS200T
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The symptoms of the issue may be interesting!
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The Autotune will register the running time of the saw which would be interesting. The saw may have had a nip up or you may not give the air filter the cleaning it really needs and fine particles may have worn the piston. Your mechanic may be giving you a load of old todge, however, these autotune saws are very sensitive to wear in the bore - you cant just up the idle on them and makes for frustrated repair technicians!
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The side handle screws are probably the short ones that should be in the bottom and the long ones in the bottom, should go in the side of the handle, seen it before, usually when the tank gets holes?
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That video is not much use but these usually make a clattering noise from a worn clutch so the new one should have sorted it. The pawls on the flywheel may be stuck or sticky and may be snagging on the flywheel at idle -they should open against the spring pressure and keep from rubbing on the recoil pulley. Other than that, the vibration may be that the wrong location bolts have been used in the bottom of the top handle and are knocking the underside of the oil tank or the av limit screws by the clutch and flywheel are not correct or don't have the rubber buffers fitted.
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Yes, spot on, you are basically sucking air out replicating fuel leaving the tank and you would expect air to enter via the vent returning the tank to atmospheric pressure (no pressure or vacuum -Zero) in under a second with no build up of vacuum in the tank that remains present for a couple of seconds or more. You may have sealed the new vent in with some compound that may have sealed the vent?
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Why don't you just suck air from the fuel tank through the fuel line and see if the vacuum drops as it should as air enters the tank through the vent. Your leak-down tester will do the job.
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Has the coil gap been set correctly? If it is too big, the spark can fail as the coil warms up!
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Sounds like you have replaced most of the saw, costing ££££ when giving it to someone with the right skill-set may have given you an answer for less cost. That being said, if the tank is venting and has been vacuum tested then I would suggest the impulse circuit is faulty, the pump section of the carb isn't working correctly or there is some sort of blockage from the fuel filter to the carb. It sounds like the saw is getting enough fuel to idle but anything more is an issue but isn't always easy to tell without seeing the issue.
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I have one of these in its Army paint, decent saw, loads of torque!
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The bearing is a sealed ball race and would typically be an interference fit on to the shaft so unlikely to just slide off.
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Yes but you need to be a bit beefy to spin one of those engines over fast enough to start them! It is a tad larger than a 181!
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It looks like either the bearing should be a push clearance fit in the crank but has stuck on or more likely, you should use a thin spanner on the clutch and undoing it will pop the bearing off as the clutch unscrews (clockwise - Left Hand Thread). These sorts of jobs usually mean creating a tool for the job which may never be used again but that's life!
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Just remember, they will all cut wood but some make you smile more than others!
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Sometimes it is all that is needed but always feel happier if I have found the route cause!
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I get through around 3-8 of these a week and is rare not to have an MS200T in. I get rare failures when back with the customer and these tend to be where the customer has fitted "the more reliable 020 carb" which tend to be extremely sensitive to adjustment on the L screw and new diaphragms have absorbed fuel and softened! Sure, buying second hand is rife with issues, one of the biggest being that the saw has an aftermarket top end, seen a few of those and strangely, once from a local well known repair shop!
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Yes, it is a bloody MS200T, the only top handle of this size worth having!
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sounds like issues in the metering section of the carb - main diaphragm, spring, needle or metering arm. The gauze strainer in the pump section is also worth checking.
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Environmental vandal (mother in law rant)
spudulike replied to spandit's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Some good advice on here, my stance would be that if she gets it cut down, she will end up: - 1) On the street 2) Buried under where the hedge stood 3) Being very sorry She owns 30% of the house, therefore only 30% of the hedge is hers so a 30% reduction! Just remind her that you will be choosing her nursing home in a few years time! -
That is some list, two links to Portugal......Vape shop......weird.......hope Ireland is treating you well, bet you are enjoying all the talk about the elusive "Backstop" and the Irish border...Yawn!
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First of all, don't get hung up on bar length, a 14" bar on an MS260 would be nice, a 16" acceptable, 18" wouldn't be nice and remember, you can walk round the other side to complete the cut on the rare occasion you need to. An 18" on a small saw would be boggy and knock the balance off. A good MS260 would be a good hop up on the 181 as it is a pro saw and are generally pretty robust. You would need to ensure it has an OEM top end as many have been lashed with Chinese ones after seizing but I still get good ones in for service every now and then.
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Sprockets last a long time and generally people are lazy or uninitiated and don't bother changing them until I get my hands on them. You can reduce the wear on the rim or sprocket by learning to adjust chain tension correctly and ensuring the oiler is putting enough oil on the bar. I usually change spur sprockets once the spur has indentations on the ends of the lobes - not really worth not doing whilst the saw is in bits!
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Bermuda I reckon!
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Worth trying pulling the kill wire off it then pulling it over again as £70 for a new one is a tad eye watering!
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Where ya been bud, not Madera again? Been a long time!
