doobin

I quoted a job for hugh bonneville a few years back, had no idea who he was.

Guys with family in their 30s are much more reliable for me.

Battery units simply don’t have the power to cope with the extra drag of 3mm line. Much as battery saws won’t pull a 20” bar. It is what it is.

A Stihl FS460 will do all you want, is well balanced, comfortabel harness, and mine have been very tough. The anti vibration of the big petrol Stihls (360 upwards) is far better than the FS70 or 94. Not sure about electric, but I'd rather have the power personally. If you're going in with a tractor flail and then tidying the edges, there may not be a lot to strim but it will still be plenty thick, and you need a brushcutter not a strimmer IMHO. As for petrol getting more expensive- I take it you're not looking to change the tractor for a hydrogen one on that basis?! So don't worry about it, that litre of petrol for strimming the edges will save you many times it's cost over waiting for a comparatively gutless battery machine to finish the job. If you don't like the smell, leave the strimmer on the trailer with the tractor! Batteries are great for domestics, they are not cost effective enough yet for commercial and rural clearance. There's a reason forestry crews don't run electric saws yet (and probably never will)

Sounds way over the top, unless the access is terrible. Sure you can't get a tracked dumper near?

I've got a Scag which is a similar design I should think. But for long grass, you need a rotary mower, not a flail. All that happens with a flail in long grass(unless you are driving it with 50hp per meter) is that the grass wraps around the flail and stops it working.

Beautifully put, John. As I said, getting the money out of him won't be simple. You could consider it a relatively cheap lesson. I seem to recall (and apologies in advance if I am wrong), a lengthy thread a few months back where you were wanting to charge a customer more money on top of a quote as things were taking longer than you thought to cut a large hedge. Others pointed out there that you can't have your cake and eat it. Did you walk away or finish the job? The lesson that I would take away from both these cock-ups is that you need to be much more rigid at agreeing and documenting terms. Is it a quote or a day rate hire? If you are going to do day rate hires, you need a watertight set of terms and conditions that place the risk in the job upon the customer. In the plant world we use the CPA model terms. This, along with a polite email explaining that you will forgo the profit on a job in return for them accepting the risk by signing, would go a long way to ensuring that you have at least one leg to stand upon should it make it to small claims court. Even then it's not a sure thing, as the CPA model terms are biased towards contractors subbing to other firms, where there could easily be a big game of 'pass the risk parcel', rather than domestic where a judge might side with the householder. All in all, John's suggestion of working back from the quote for less money (ie, leave brash on the floor) is probably the best route to go down in future. Don't feel too bad mate- remember this. You pay to learn. It's as true now as when I first heard it, and whilst I don't pay nearly as much in tuition fees to the UOL (uni of life 🤣) as I used too, I still keep my alumni association subscription active!

He should pay for the day and recovery. He wanted to hire you and the machine daily to save money, versus a quote where you assumed the risk. It’s simple. getting the money out of him won’t be simple though.

If you've been driving around without locking it then you could well have trashed the internal seals, either in the ram or the valve. Bouncing a nose heavy trailer down the road will cause big pressure spikes.

Briggs have never made a decent engine in their history. All overmarketed crap. Briggs and scrap 'em.

Good call. Brakes on a spool is perfectly acceptable to me, especially offroad with a switched on driver. Depending upon the flow at idle you may wish to add a flow restrictor, or better still an adjustable pressure relief valve with a return to the tractor spools. This will keep it from locking up, although depending upon your spool valve lever you may even have enough control there.

Great to hear. I’ve never found bio to lubricate as well as mineral sadly.

40lb coyotes and a thermal riflescope sounds like fun. Wish I lived Stateside sometimes!

We had similar the other week. So said to customer we’ll do it, but cash, and if there turn out to be more than 45 rings on the stump then we were never here 😂 42 rings. Which was more than I thought there would be!! Was a crappy leylandii which was once the end of a hedge. Bit close. was a good bit more than 32cm, but client had emails from the the council stating that only trees present at the time of the houses being built were protected.

How are they coming from America cheaper than east Europe? Oak sleepers have gone up to to £24 each here in Sussex, that’s buying in packs of 30. are you importing or buying from a wholesaler?

Turned into a land rover too- a Chelsea tractor.

I’m not aware of any qualifications for them, but there’s certainly an opportunity for a parasite to invent one.

Not sure about your specific issue, but after problems on mine I just swapped to a Chinese carb for a tenner and it's been great.

Will rot before it seasons, burns cold and leaves a shitload of ash. Don’t waste your time.

That's modern by Arb standards. I'd give it a go.

Still burning here. It's been cold of late (coldest April for fifty years or so I heard?) and it's just nice to have it on anyhow.

Good chance that a large modern tractor (1000 PTO only) will have plenty enough hydraulic flow. WIll only cost you half an hour and a pair of hydraulic fittings to find out.

Chinese carb all the way. Got them on lots of different engines, from a ts410 to gx390s. Much quicker to swap it out than mess around fitting expensive rebuild kits that may or may not solve the problem imho.

I use mine at least every other week. If it's for ripping rock then get a normal one with a replaceble CAT type tip and the right geometry- the curve is important. Not sure on the RSL one- looks a little long and not enough of a curve to me. You won't look back. I just finished 1000m of trenching through shaley rock and only needed the ripper for 20 ish metres, and that was on a 2.8t machine. You might well be OK with a 12" bucket with fresh teeth. Once you're into the shale it tends to break out fairly easily. Never hurts to have the ripper as backup though....