doobin

I normally agree with you but I can't see that working. OP will just have a dented flue with the potential for fumes leaking. It's one of those jobs where all you can really do is pull it apart and do it again properly. Actually, if the tiop hat is the probem I'd just try tapping that up alternately as you suggest. Whilst holding the flue. When working on circular stock, tapping all around is often more effective than left and right.

Came in here to post the exact same link, found you'd already done it! Love how they are crowing about a SC coppice stump putting up a shoot as success. That said, those photos don't look like ancient woodland to me. But HS2 is a collosal waste of OUR money.

Sounds like a recipe for a buggered shoulder! I'd be making it single lever.

Yes but it’s just a rim sprocket

Change it to picco whilst you’re at it ??

He'd better be careful or that lot will be on it's side round a slight corner. Reminds me of this idiot I keep seeing about locally, towed by a VW car.

I have tipper trailer, tipper truck x2 and double cab pickup. Sometimes I still feel that I need a single cab pickup. If you have space, I'd budget for two slightly older vehicles, especially as you have spanner skills.

Easier said than done with many Stihl dealers, especially if your only local one is a tractor dealer who know sweet FA about saws. Fortunately DM saws are brill.

I can't see why not, you'd need to fab new mounting points for the ram and ensure that the reservoir held sufficent fluid reserves.

Not a chance. Challenge her to take you to court- she won’t.

Sounds good. Still suggest you adjust the marketing accordingly. What I used years ago must have been diamond stones from a third party. If you’d advertised ABN stones I would have tried them recently when I searched for cbn stones. As it was I chucked the grinder ?

I think a lease purchase is pretty much the same as HP. The cost of finance is a necessary evil in order to advance your business further- and let’s face it, interest rates have never been cheaper. Im not a cash strapped firm, but I know I’d rather four machines on finance over 5 years than one owned outright. Might be different if all I needed was one, but that’s never the way unless you have a very simple business.

OK, found some info. Looks like you are using a finance lease, so buying the whole truck. Same as HP but the tax implications work better for you. Fair play, and pretty much what I said as regards to the benefits of HP/5 years warranty. My original post against leases was aimed at what I understood to be a lease- an operating lease.

I think the bolded is wrong. I know when I buy new on finance I can choose whether to claim the whole lot in the first year (first year capital allowances), or to add it to my capital pool to then write down, as you say. I guess the benefit of leasing would be to introduce a fixed tax deduction per month rather than having to take it all in the first year when it may not be needed.

What damage was caused?

Could you provide the figures for this? Sounds interesting. Are you saying when you sell the truck you don’t have to pay tax on it?

The major con is usually that you take all the hit for the most expensive three years of depreciation, without being able to mitigate this by running it for longer. Other cons are that milage restrictions may be an issue if your workload suddenly changes, and it's also the nature of a work truck to take the odd bump and scrape. Which rather than being £100 off the sale price at the end of your ownership will be an inflated £800 penalty charge on top of all the money you already paid to lease the thing. I wouldn't do it personally. From what I've seen, leasing is in a personal capacity the domain of youngsters eager to impress in a new entry level BMW or middle class 'keeping up with the Joneses' in their rented Range Rover. In a commercial capacity, it always seems to be people like county councils who lease, and it's not their money they're spending is it? There are plenty of five years finance deals out there with 5 years warranty, which would give you affordable repayments and allow you to minimise the depreciation hit by timing your selling. That's the way I've always gone with machines, and if I was to need a new truck I'd probably do that too (and maybe run it for longer, I don't do many miles)

You're always flat out in the cut but then the resistance from the chain is preventing it from revving out. Same as fith gear in a vehicle does. But no excuse for revving flat out from cold on a PDI. Only time I would use WOT with no load on the machine is when setting a high screw to ensure fourstroking and not too lean a mix. That said, isn't WOT with no load on the saw for about thirty seconds part of the reset procedure for Mtronic gear?

I really hope all the pattaya pussay is worth it for living under such a toltatian regime! ?

If you are working as a bona fide subby (own tools, give price, do it when you feel like it, send whoever you like to do it etc) then you should be able to register for gross contractor status and skip all the bollocks.

I last tried the Granberg around eight years ago. I stand by my assertations made in my original post- both the 'diamond' stones then and the normal stones were not a patch on a sharp file. The normal stones were OK for a sharpen, but then both clog and wear extremely quickly, leading to a frustrating experience or high levels of stone replacement cost. If indeed they have updated the 'diamond' stone composition, then I would suggest they also update the marketing. Even Chinese built drill sharpeners are shipping with CBN wheels (and work very well, better than any Drill Doctor type machine out there). CBN is entering the mainstream, and for certain applications such as drill bit and wood turning chisel sharpening it's a quantum leap forward. What is ABN exactly? It's not something I have heard of and a Google search doesn't seem to bring up anything in particular.

There's your problem. Top plate is totallly blunt. You need to lift your file up a bit/do the eqivalent on your grinder.

Honestly, by far the best thing for a semi chisel picco chain is a sharp file. Quicker than messing around with a grinder and easy to put just how much hook you want on. The Grandberg uses diamond stones, which from an engineering standpoint is completely the wrong material to use to try to cut steel with. I alway found it gave a piss poor result with either standard stones or diamond stones. What is needed is a CBN stone, but until then, a file will genuinely be quicker.

Which grinders would you recommend? I’ve not found anything better than metabo for anti vibe, but they are pricey.

Assumed it all went for firewood. We have predominantly ash round here and I’ve never seen it cut for anything else.